Large Scale Central

Cast Resin Frogs and points?

General Discussion
#1

I recall reading some time ago that someone (Ken?) was casting his own frogs for turnouts from resin.

Seeing that Llagas Creek doesn’t offer a #9 frog, I’ve been thinking about grinding some rail up and casting my own.

Any thoughts? Worse case, once the frog wears down, I simply cast another.

On the same note, what about points?

#2

Craig, what I have found over the course of the years is that they do have a tendency to warp if they are out in direct sunlight. The ones in the shade, not so much.

If the warpage isn’t too bad I can usually hit the warped spot with a dremel and all is good (for a while).

I have replaced a couple with metal (aluminum) frogs that I fabricated myself.

There was one type of frog that I was casting that wasn’t very prototypical looking. It looked like a piece of 1/4" thick square plastic with a V-groove in it. They’ve proven to be very reliable and no warpage. But like I said, not very prototypical looking.

If you want I could get a couple a pictures to show you what I mean.

Now, there may be some resin casting material out there that is UV protected. I just haven’t looked for it.

The points are just rail ground down on a grinder.

#3

Thanks Ken. Sounds like it might be a no go then for me as two of the three frogs are in direct sunlight.

Humm I don’t think I want to learn metal casting yet. I bet it will be more expensive to have Shapeways or another 3D printing service print them in metal.

#4

Can just grind and cut them out of stock rail. Used JBweld on bottom of rail to make a frog. I did It and it works perfectly.

Jason

#5

With systems like Rail Pro and Air Wire battery power will plastic track ever become a way to run our trains. Will it be cost affective and there are plastics available today that have the UV protection need for this, I would think so. I’d like to see plastic track priced at $2.00 a foot and switches in the $10.00 range, couldn’t we build so impressive layout, they could be endless.

trainman

#6

John Lenheiser said:

With systems like Rail Pro and Air Wire battery power will plastic track ever become a way to run our trains. Will it be cost affective and there are plastics available today that have the UV protection need for this, I would think so. I’d like to see plastic track priced at $2.00 a foot and switches in the $10.00 range, couldn’t we build so impressive layout, they could be endless.

trainman

Could be possible…but with the weight most theses locomotives are. It would most likely chew up the plastic in no time. So you’ll be replacing it at a rate that would eat up the initial expense of the metal ones.

Jason

#7

Jason V. said:

Can just grind and cut them out of stock rail. Used JBweld on bottom of rail to make a frog. I did It and it works perfectly.

Jason

I’ve been using the same method recently.

#8

Jason V. said:

John Lenheiser said:

With systems like Rail Pro and Air Wire battery power will plastic track ever become a way to run our trains. Will it be cost affective and there are plastics available today that have the UV protection need for this, I would think so. I’d like to see plastic track priced at $2.00 a foot and switches in the $10.00 range, couldn’t we build so impressive layout, they could be endless.

trainman

Could be possible…but with the weight most theses locomotives are. It would most likely chew up the plastic in no time. So you’ll be replacing it at a rate that would eat up the initial expense of the metal ones.

Jason

Not to mention, squirrels like chewing on plastic, for some reason.

#9

I don’t mind grinding rails and JB welding them, I just didn’t relish the thought of making more than one if I can cast copies… It would be a lot easier if I bought some nickel silver scrap rail… Then I could just solder it all together.

#10

Too bad you sold the Proxon saw. I could have traded you a resistance soldering set up. I bought it used from Bruce who got it used. It works, but I’ve not taken the time to get proficient at it.

What about printed PLA. Would that last long enough? Getting the file might be harder than getting a print done.

#11

Jon,

It’s still pending ( I love it when someone says they are interested but never get back to you… 24 hours is my limit)… But I’ve already got a resistance soldering set up. I’m slowly practicing but it’s a steep learning curve for sure.

I could draw the file fairly easy, but at some point it’s a break even timewise between drawing and just grinding the rails. Goes pretty fast with a combination belt and disk sander.

#12

OK Craig. Well, if it falls through and you don’t have others in line, look me up on messenger. I’ll take it.

#13

Jon,

I sent you a message on messenger. Well I’m pretty sure it’s you based on mutual friends… :wink:

#14

Craig, Have you thought about casting the frogs out of pewter… Low melt temp, and can be molded using a quality RTV…

#15

Craig, Have you thought about casting the frogs out of pewter… Low melt temp, and can be molded using a quality RTV…

#16

Craig, Have you thought about casting the frogs out of pewter… Low melt temp, and can be molded using a quality RTV…

#17

Dave,

No I have not thought about that. Hum that might be a good step between resin and aluminum.

#18

Craig,

I’ve been using resin cast frogs for years, here in eastern Washington. Once a year, I shoot them with brown paint from a cheap rattlecan as a sunblock. Works well.

#19

Thanks Steve. I’m guessing if you don’t have trouble on the eastside of the state, then I should be okay on the westside.

#20

I made up a form with some strip wood and cast a frog in place with JB Quick. It survived for years outside with no issues. Now the switch was only in direct sunlight for a few hours a day, and in dappled sunlight and shade for the rest of the day.