Large Scale Central

Guard rails

Track and Trestles
#1
  I had posterail guardsd this previously on GRW forum and changed a few thing at Greg E suggestions and though I would repost it here:rail guard ends
 
While out scrounging for old track I came across this piece that use to be on my LGB 4' bridge and I thought this might be interesting to those new into the hobby for added detail to their layout. Rerailers properly called guards rails, on both bridges and trestles were very common on the original days of railroading where jumping the track could have disastrous consequences as a car could go over the side taking more cars with it and create havoc and destruction to both bridges and trestles. As to modern day building, you would have to consult some one other than me as when it gets past steam I'm lost. The though was by adding a second rail usually a lighter rail just inside the outer rail, if the car started to jump the track ( derail) the inner rail would keep the flange it in place and keep the car on the bridge and usually at the beginning of the section the inner rail was bent in towards the other side, that way if the car was derailed before it got there it would steer the wheel into the space between the outer and inner rail.
   Enough history, and I hope it is correct, doing it to your layout is very easy. Real railroads just used another piece of track, but adding rail to a molded sleeper/tie raises the rail just a bit as the running rail is usually set in a smooth section but raising it up a little on the seen section and is not good if you are running any type of rail cleaner, whether it be brushes or pads they will clean the rerailers and not touch your mainline. Easily solved using a lower height/code rail, 250 code is what I use and I bought aluminum as it was cheap and easy to bend. Start with deciding how long it needs to be then cutting a "V" in the beginning end and end section between the steel railhead and the securing flange and pinch together so that the offending wheel has a ramp to ride up on. I marked mine on the top, turned the affected section and secured with drilling and installing withsmall screws. Before attaching I painted with a rattle/spray can some red oxide. You will be surprised how many people coming to your layout will comment on "what's that" for, just something that they will take home to remember yours over others, seeable different details is where it's at. Bill
#2

Looks good Bill.

They are still used to this day. Unfortunately, they aren’t very effective. Modern trains are too big and heavy. If a single car is derailed, they have a chance, but multiple derailed cars will shred everything.

Shane

#3

They are not rerailers, the inner rails and/or heavy timbers on the tie ends were designed to keep the derailed equipment on the bridge/trestle. Upright cars are easier to rerail than junkers pitched over the side.

They should be inboard enough that the whole wheel can land on the ties, journal boxes included if the rails are tall.

#4

Yes, they don’t rerail the car. There is no lifting mechanism to lift the other wheel up and over its rail to put its flange back on the inside of the rail . The spacing of the guard rail is such that it will place the other wheel on the axle near its running rail, like John said, to try and keep the car upright. Guard rails are usually made from a lighter rail the the running rails, rail that is no longer usable for running rails. Over the years of running and rebuilding the trolley line near my house, the lighter rails became guard rails. During the last major rebuild, one of those rails was donated to the Arden Trolley Museum. It is stamped with the original railroad’s initials (P&CSRR) and the date it was made (1871).

#5

guardrails for optical reasons (bridges etc.) i just place against the raised molding of tie plates (on LGB track) (see mock-up in upper left corner), leaving a somewhat bigger gap.

where i put guardrails against actual derailment hazards, i cut out the railfoot of the guardrail, to place it nearer the main-rail.

depending on visibility of the affected spot, i either nail the guardrails down, or fasten them with glue. easy does it (said the lazy)

#6

That’s correct John. If you burn off an axle, they might get you over the bridge, but anything more serious and you’re in big trouble. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Battle River Trestle out of Edmonton in 2012. Track speed on bridge is 40MPH… 17 cars went over the edge. Thankfully it happened 30 behind the locomotives.

The bolted rail in the center of the photo is one of the guard rails. (photo from CN foreman)

#7

Shane Stewart said:

That’s correct John. If you burn off an axle, they might get you over the bridge, but anything more serious and you’re in big trouble. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Battle River Trestle out of Edmonton in 2012. Track speed on bridge is 40MPH… 17 cars went over the edge. Thankfully it happened 30 behind the locomotives.

The bolted rail in the center of the photo is one of the guard rails. (photo from CN foreman)

Well that was what the designers said… forces have changed … maybe they need Aristo flanges!