Hi Folks-
I’m just getting started in Gauge 1 live steam and looking for a good used British narrow gauge loco, something like in the Accucraft / Roundhouse line of 0-4-0’s or similar. I’d prefer a gas rather than alcohol fuel system. I’m looking for something in good condition that’s ready to run and not a “project” loco as I’ve got no experience in repairing/refurbishing them at this point.
Thanks
Robin,
You might wish to post your request on the live steam forum of Mylargescale.com where there is a lot more live steam activity than here. Also there are a number of live steamers fairly close to you that you could observe and learn from. Perhaps they will chime in and make contact with you.
Best regards,
Tom
Point well taken, Tom, thanks for the suggestion.
Robin check your messages above. I sent you a message concerning your question. I might have something.
Robin, I second Tom’s suggestion of the MLS forum. (Tom has lots of small steamers and often comes to MD to visit his family, not too far from you. Hasn’t managed to find time to run at Dan’s or Jerry’s place yet. Must be really attractive grandkids. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif))
I’d also point you to the G scale Trading Group on Facebook. It’s another UK-based entity but mainly for buying and selling. Several UK dealers post live steamers for sale, usually UK items, and will ship to the USA. I have an Accucraft “Countess” that came from John Sutton, and I often find engines that I’d like to buy.
Me too!
I was on the fence regarding the Merlin, but would like a American outline.
$600 or less because of my limited budget … nothing I need to walk beside though.
I was on the fence regarding the Merlin
They can be americanized. This is a Mayflower, modified by Tom Myers.
I might let my Roundhouse Billy go for the right $$ or trade for a logging engine. He has a SPP Slomo inertia device fitted, making him VERY controlable at slow speeds. He is kit built, around 4 hours of steaming on him so far.
Well as this would be my first, there is nothing to trade. I saw the offer over there, but said nothing, being trade-less.
Today my life adviser told me to wait before taking money away from the casting shop for toys, until my Doctor calls.
10 days or so of anxieties.
Robin?
Worth looking at this UK based society https://www.16mm.org.uk/ . I have been a member these past 9 years. They are considered pretty much the best resource here if you are getting into live steam, and battery and running on 45/32 mm track gauges. While at heart, as per their title, they are 16 mm scale (1:19) their members encompass anything from 1:13 - 1:22.5 operators. a lot have interests outside those scale parameters. Not just a bunch of rivet counters, very strong on “freelance” type locos and stock. They have a US group - http://www.northamerican16mmmodellers.org . I hope this helps.
Take me out of the search, I decided to get a Ruby kit and learn as I go.
I pushed the button to start the ball rolling! Can’t wait to set the desert on fire!
Awsome John, cant wait for you to join the burnt finger brigade with your Ruby! While those are not my style, they are a really nice model with plenty of potential for modification, from adding pilot or trailing trucks, a tender really helps the looks. Accucraft used to offer a tender, shame they didn’t bring it back with the reissue of the Ruby. Lots of info on the net on mods to do that make these run even better. From wrapping the poker burner with stainless mesh to quiet it down and lessen the smoke box fires to changing the admission of the steam to the cylinders to improve forward direction running. There is a company on ebay that sells a custom bracket to mount servos in the cab if RC is desired. Robin, get ahold of Jay Kovac at The Train Department. He can get you started in steam and help you find and purchase an engine. He carries everything you need from the engines to the proper oils. I get my iso butane gas in the sporting goods dept at the local Walmart. That is my local cheap solution, cheaper than the smoke shops smaller cans of gas. Depending on the model and what style of gas cans. You will probably need an adapter to mount on the can to fill the tank on the engine. Mike the Aspie
Thanks Mike, the only mod I’m aware of is the 1/2" cylinder upgrade, included, I think. I’m ordering through The Train Dept. also. It was late Saturday so I haven’t heard from them yet.
I’ll look into the admission change. I’m not sure about R/C, can add it later.
She’ll get a tender, all my trains get canteens for desert running. Code of the West, y’know, give water to those in need. We bring extra.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)
Should I buck my known habit of getting bored with the fiddly nature and want more, the Fowler and the Sandy River caught my eye while my wallet slammed shut!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif) Hey GoFundMe, help a dying old man live his dream! Bigger Toys!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Oh my life advisor, mentioned above, was happy I picked smaller in case my other plans can still proceed and do both.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Thanks again,
I believe the new Rubys have the larger cylinders as standard now. The later/fancier Rubys had them as standard over the small bore that was on the original Ruby #1. The inside/outside admission helped with running qualities running forward as the original Ruby’s ran better in reverse than forwards. So guys would switch it so it ran better forward. Check out the Accucraft E store online, lots of extra detail parts if you want a nice headlight or other detail parts like bells, generators ect. I get my distilled water and gas from Walmart, steam oil from Jason and for running gear/bearings I use 3 in 1 in the blue bottle, that is electric motor oil or I use Wahl hair clipper oil for the running gear. If you run on ground level, a good flush of the running gear/inside valve eccentrics is critical every couple runs as they pick up lots of grit and grime if your railway is ground level.
Thanks Mike.
Good tips, I have the oil for the running gear, I used it servicing evap coolers; electric blowers in a humid conditions and a fine quality spray oil to clean and lube between runs.
I’ll let Jay set me up with the Steam oil and a gauge and a Goodall if it will fit…
I’m elevated, but we have wind… it’s a desert.
John Caughey said:
Thanks Mike.
Good tips, I have the oil for the running gear, I used it servicing evap coolers; electric blowers in a humid conditions and a fine quality spray oil to clean and lube between runs.
I’ll let Jay set me up with the Steam oil and a gauge and a Goodall if it will fit…
I’m elevated, but we have wind… it’s a desert.
I talked with Jay today, I’m going to miss that bank balance!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Didn’t go ‘over’ too much and once you subtract the Joy factor … Such a deal!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Jay is very good at relieving the wallet of cash or running up the tab on the card! I cant wait till I am eligible for the profit sharing checks and such at work. Then I get buy more engines. Mike
John congrats on joing the burnt finger club. Can’t wait to see your first steam in the desert. If you have any questions or need any thing send me a message.
I have built a couple engines based on ruby kits. I like to modify stuff and they make a fine starting point. They are great engines for the money.
Thanks guys. Is it ok if I just singe them?
The brass hat wants to know if Miss Ruby can pull a Sierra Obs with the pick up brakes removed? I think he’s crazy, I see a string of 4 wheel carts piled high with bagged concentrates coming back from the mine(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)…
