Large Scale Central

Another General Store Update

Here is some more info on the general store project. This is my first attempt at using stone mosaic tile sheets from Lowe’s for model making. The inspiration was an old abandoned stone building in Antelope, Texas. Here is what the prototype building looks like today:

I adjusted the general proportions of the structure to match the width of the stone mosaic tile sheets. I foreshortened the length so that the model has an approximate 12” square footprint. I set the wall height at 6” in order to get two walls from each sheet. I reduced the width of the front and rear walls by one half of a stone’s width to maintain symmetry over the doorway and windows.

The model is built over a shell made from ¼” cement backer board (HARDIE-BACKER). The various pieces of the shell were cut from a single sheet of backer board. You can score this backer board with a carbide scribing tool and snap it apart easily. You can also cut it with a circular saw using either a masonry or carbide-tipped blade. The saw generates quite a bit of dust, but produces a much cleaner edge. Cutouts were made in the front shell piece corresponding to the front door and window openings.

Here is an interior shot of the model that shows how the stone tile sheets are attached to the cement backer board shell. The mating corners of the backer board are joined with mesh joint tape made especially for cement board and covered with thin set mortar. I also used thin set to attach the tile sheets to the cement backer board.

Here is what the model looks like so far:

Unlike some of you who make detailed drawings on a napkin before you start building, I haven’t even put down a sketch on this one … just winging it as I go along. So far it’s working out. More to come later.

Bob,

I am impressed and will follow these threads with great interest. Te stone work is great and I love the sign work. Is the coke sign done the same way (transfer) as you did the other?

Devon,

You must be a mind reader. How else would you know that there is a Coca Cola sign on the right wall of the model (as yet not shown.) If you meant the red and white sign on the left side, that is the Burma-Shave sign I posted a while back using the sanded paper method.

Pretty dang slick, Bob.

Papa Ruby had a book about the Burma Shave signs. What a hoot!

Beneath this stone

Lies Elmer Gush

Tickled to death

By his shaving brush.

Burma Shave

Bob, love the construction method. That should handle the weather very well. Was the cement board structure fairly rigid before the stone veneer went on the out side?

Randy,

The cement board shell is extremely rigid, even before adding the stone veneer. I had previously used this product while remodeling the shower stall in my master bathroom after a broken water pipe inside of the wall necessitated tearing out the old tile.

The brand I used is HardieBacker, by the James Hardie company. HardieBacker cement board is composed of 90% Portland cement and ground sand. It contains no asbestos, glass mesh, formaldehyde, or gypsum. Here is the link to the product web site:

http://www.jameshardie.com/Products/HardieBacker-Cement-Board

Thanks Bob, I’m very familiar with that product. I’ve used it in my own shower too. I guess my question of rigidity was more about how stiff the corners were once you used the mesh and thin set. Not so much on the rigidity of the board it’s self. Did you need to be careful not to crack or break the joints because it was brittle? I figure once the stone gets added to the out side then there is a lot of overlapping in the joint and it would be fairly resistant to flex and cracking. I just like the concept since moisture is one of the hardest things on our model. buildings. The extra weight is good for keeping them put too.

Randy,

I temporarily tacked the butt joints on the cement board with DAP “Strong-Stik” instant grab indoor/outdoor adhesive to hold them in place while I added the mesh tape and thin set. I let it set-up for a day before I worked on it again. I didn’t have any issues with the joints before adding the veneer, although I didn’t rough handle the shell to see how much flexing it would take. After the veneer was added, it seems to be extremely rigid and strong. I have moved the model about quite a bit while adding various details … filed, sanded, ground down rough spots with a Dremel tool, etc. No cracking or flexing problems so far.

Wow, great model of a really beautiful old building!

So Bob, tell me this. In the photo of your building I can see an overhead door in the background, which tells me you’re working in the garage. I just checked a weather site and it says the current temp in Choctaw is 21 degrees, which suggests that either you have a heated garage or you are one hardy buggah! :slight_smile:

Joe,

The photo was taken inside of my railroad shop. My wife made me build a separate building in the back yard to work on my trains. I posted a video slide show about it back in December, 2013.

http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/20505/building-the-railroad-shop

Bob do you have a link to the burma shave sign. I cant seem to find it and am interested. Your decal work is a notch above and with the pending MIK challenge I have interest in putting the screws to the other contestants with flawless technique.

Devon,

Here is the link to the post about how I did the Burma-Shave sign:

http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/22740/using-paper-signs