Large Scale Central

New Guy form Dayton

Steve.

“givens and druthers” or in DoD acquisition speak requirements and trade-offs.

Plants? Yes been thinking about it. I want mostly correct or close to scale size plants (pond plants may be an exception). I will be looking at lots of “dwarf” plants to represent trees and bushes in scale size. I want lots of moss to represent grass - I have moss growing naturally in my yard (good bit of shade and Ohio frequent rains) and should be able to sustain it in my layout with a little care. Any rules of thumb for selecting plants such as I want?

Ah, the infamous Rooster checks in!! Thanks for the welcome Rooster and I appreciate your perspective. You guys have some inside jokes going on around here and I like that!!!

Rooster, please read the posts… he did not ask about a curve with a larger radius section in the middle, he asked the opposite, a curve with a tighter radius piece in the center.

Running at a particular radius and then suddenly tightening the curve would be a foul up… keep a constant curve unless you have Featherkile’s open range policy.

The best response was made earlier with a rail bender, make a constant smooth curve of the largest radius. If you have lots of space add larger radius transitions at the beginning and ending of the curve, but again pretty sure we are not in unlimited space mode.

Greg

Greg, you talk about larger radius at the beginning and end of the curve, that implies a smaller radius in the middle, just what the OP wants to do.

Sam Griffith said:

“givens and druthers” or in DoD acquisition speak requirements and trade-offs.

If I had to make a list, I’d have a nervous breakdown. I don’t know where to draw the line.

What type of track are you proposing? Ohio is fairly moist, so aluminum would be a nightmare to maintain. Brass would require a full 1st Division, just to keep functional, with daily cleanings.

That leaves stainless steel, or nickel silver, both on the spendy side. Fortunately, it’s a one time expense.

As to types of plants, your local nurseryman would be a better source, he knows the climate, and what will thrive. Alberta spruce are ubiquitous in garden railroads, though. They can grow to 7 ft, if left alone, and trimmed to represent a giant Sequoia, or Redwood. 6 or 7 ft, times the scale of your RR is a 140 ft tree, which is how tall they get. Usually, they are kept in the 4-5 ft range, but imagine the possibilities. Once established, they are difficult to kill by trimming, but they will die overnight for no known reason. Start the trimming before planting, it’s easier that way, then once, perhaps twice a year to maintain.

Various dwarf cyprus are a possibility, as are dwarf maple. Irish moss and Scotch moss make good grass substitutes. Sedums and thyme are good fillers. You might consider an herb garden for SWMBO.

The possibilities are endless.

Ken Brunt said:

Welcome Sam. Ask away, dumb questions usually get dumb answers…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Welcome Sam!

On this sight, someone asks a question, a few of us answer it and then Greg answers telling us we are all dumb.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

That is why he has a big target on his back.

(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Wonderful info on plants, Steve - thanks. I’ve had my eye on those dwarf “sequoias” for awhile. As for track, I already have a bunch of LGB brass and I hadn’t counted on starting over in that department. That said, would a track cleaning engine help my cause? I plan to solder a conduit wire between each section of track.

Sam,

If you are going to use track power, go with rail clamps.

Then just make some jumper wires up and fasten them to the clamp screws. No soldering necessary.

Use bury low voltage landscape wire.

I’ve heard about them John. Source? thanks for the tip. I believe you have to drill/tap a hole for each screw - right?

ProLine™ Brass Clamps (G-scale) 10 clamps

https://www.trainli.com/rail-clamps-61/TL10-20013-brass-g-scale-clamps-LGB-compatible-p-475

I’ll throw a couple more cents in. On curves and what not. When you have all the room in the world to work its nice and everything everyone is saying is correct. Bigger is better, flatter is better. With that said, just like in the real world challenges can be over come. I had an area about 10’ wide and about 55’ long to play with. This is all the wife would deed me (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)of HER backyard. That’s a lot of limitation and a lot of compromise. I had to decide early on that this was a mountain mining narrow gauge pike. What that means is short rolling stock and short consists. But thats how the real guys did it to when they had these same limitations. I have 8’ diameter curves for the most part and have one section of 3.5% grade. Do I have some issues once in awhile yes. But it is a case of either working with what I have or not doing it at all. Some of the options were just not on the table. We have on guy on here that runs trains on 30" diameter curves on little pizza layouts. I am sure he wishes he had more room also, so he makes due.

Here are some thoughts. If you plan to join a club, others will have a hard time running on your pike unless they have small equipment. But our club makes it work. We have a guy with tight curves and people just bring their “little” stuff. Its your layout so the compromises are yours to make. If you are not heavily invested in large locomotives then you can make the comprises now and buy stuff like an LGB Forney or some of the other stuff that will run on little layouts. Another option for sure is doing 7/8ths scale and making a back woods logging or mining line or ???. Most 7/8ths stuff is pretty small. You can pack a lot more of this stuff in a small space than you can if you are running large locomotives with long heavy weight passenger cars. You can also be a little more radical with your grades since you will be pulling short trains with short cars. This gives you vertical appeal with tracks able to cross over one another and such.

Bigger is better but little can be made fun. But it has to happen in the early stages. Little stuff will run on any layout the reverse is not true. So you have to decide know if you go tight and steep.

David, you aren’t quite getting it… Yes, GIVEN LOTS OF SPACE, PICK A CURVE AND ADD TRANSITIONS TO IT - WONDERFUL

THIS IS MOST LIKELY NOT THE CASE…

So given restrictions in space, no, don’t “kink” the curve in the center with one piece of tighter curve. Please read the OP’s question. That is who I am answering, not Steve not Rooster, the poor guy who asked for advice.

This thread was further messed up by suggesting transition curves and 2 people who do NOT have the space restrictions.

Again, if the OP would produce some dimensions we could talk specifics instead of giving every option to every possible situation, which is not helpful.

Greg

David Maynard said:

Greg, you talk about larger radius at the beginning and end of the curve, that implies a smaller radius in the middle, just what the OP wants to do.

Sam Griffith said:

I’ve heard about them John. Source? thanks for the tip. I believe you have to drill/tap a hole for each screw - right?

Nope.

All you have to get is some crimp ring terminals ( proper screw size ring and proper wire gauge crimp terminal) and put them under the screw and tighten down.

Ok, I have my plan and loaded the photo of it to the Freight Shed and I have an iPad and am having trouble embedding it (or at least linking to it) using the instructions on this website. Little help please. Thanks!

Also thanks to Sean, and John for suggestions/links for the rail conduit clamps!

http://largescalecentral.com/filesharing/sh/file/12764/zga6Y-EuNJ

Edit: I guess the link to my photo (above) works, but would like to know how to embed.

Edit 2: So to cut to the chase the dimensions of my layout are roughly 40’ across by 20’ top to bottom

You don’t ‘embed’ it (that’s a video) open it and save it’s location, for you it takes 2 keys to highlight/save it’s location. That gets entered into the Mountain/sun icon pop up box. We like to keep pics at 800 pixels wide for those with slower connections, there aren’t many, but they are loud!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Sam,

Your link is not displaying your photo.

Joe - see if the link I added to my previous post works for you.

OK this link I can cut up and work with to display the photo for you…

(As always thanks to Joe for bringing the pictures out of the “ether”)

So, my first question is: “is this to scale”? Want to know the actual size of the curves.

Also, be mindful that 3% is steep, and moreover, it “magnifies” the effect of a curve, i.e. it effectively makes the curve “tighter”

I see some areas of “S” curves, try to get a 2 foot straight (technically you need about double the length of your longest car)

The curves by the passenger station appear way too tight, but will reserve judgement once I know the scale.

Greg

Joe Zullo said:

OK this link I can cut up and work with to display the photo for you…