Does anyone have suggestions how to clean really dirty split jaw rail clamps? I have about three hundred of them that are grimy and dirty that I plan to reuse on a new elevated layout. Not too keen on wire brushing each one individually.
Hi Rich,
I have a feeling the oxide layer on the brass will not trouble you once the clamps are tightend. As you install them, I would give them a quick hit with a nylon brush to kick off any dirt or sand and try them out.
Actually Rich …a small angled edge file with an “in bucket” and “out bucket” works quite well for me. Only cleaning the inside contact points and lubing the hardware as I go.
David Russell said:
Actually Rich …a small angled edge file with an “in bucket” and “out bucket” works quite well for me. Only cleaning the inside contact points and lubing the hardware as I go.
Edit to say: It goes faster than you think while sitting watching TV ,drinking a beer ,in the A/C this time of year
I use a small wire brush in a dremel tool, cleans them nice, and gets in the “groove”… I just hold them with my fingers.
Sometimes I take the screws out completely, and again, the wire brush gets in the threads really nice.
You don’t need full speed on the wire brush, and buy the actual Dremel brand, the stainless steel one, they last way longer.
The #530 brush, about 1" in diameter
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Try soaking one in vinegar for a few days, then clean it off with water and see if you like the results.
Rich, I could send you a bottle or two of our river water, I would be OK since it would’t be interstate shipping of hazers material. Soak for a few hours and the acid content would take care of all else.
On the real side. I use the Dremel wire wheel, I mounted my Dremel in the vice and then just grabbed the connector and brushed it down the “v” groove. Quick and easy.
Rich,
I use Muriatic acid. I pour a small amount into a plastic margarine tub, carefully place the clamps into the acid, let soak for about 30 seconds, remove with pliers, and place in a water bath and slosh around. The clamps come out looking almost like new. This method allows you to clean the clamps completely, even in the crevasses.
Been doing this for years when I recycle my clamps.
Doc Watson
BTW; I also clean the tips of my track this way when I’m doing any modifications to my layout.
When using the wire brush wheel, be sure to have eye protection as the bristles can ‘fly’ off at any time.
When assembling, be sure to use conductive paste as it does help a lot. After 10 years my clamps are shiny inside as is the track the clamps are attached to and I assume it is from the LGB conductive paste I used. Seems expensive, but I have only used 1 tube to date.
Yes, the wires do fly off the wheel, so Dan has a good point there. As for the conductive paste, I use it as cheap insurance. If it keeps a joint from failing, then it was worth the cost in saved frustration.
I like Doc’s solution (no pun intended). Simple and very effective. You can buy the acid at any pool supply store and maybe even at the home centers. To dispose of it, just dilute it with water and it becomes safe.
Well guys, thanks for the advice. Seems wire brushing on a dremel has the vote. Dave, thanks for the river water offer, but I was in Silverton when the breech occurred. Lovely. No thanks…yet. Not sure what else is in there. However this happens every few years or so, and the river seems to cleanse itself…sending everything to Lake Powell. As long as the swimmers there don’t dive 300-400 feet they might be okay too.
Doc, I think I will try your solution first. I maintain a pond, and have little muriatic acid on hand. If it’s iffy, then out comes the dremel.
Thanks everyone for your advice. If I didn’t have so many to clean, the wire brush would certainly be the safest, but last count after getting them all off the track it’s more like 400-500 of the little buggers.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Be sure you neutralize the acid well and dry and lube before reassembling.
Greg
Had to go look up what muriatic acid is, it is potent stuff:
"A short anecdote… A hardware store in my area stopped storing muriatic acid. Over a period of years, gaseous seepage from the old containers had begun to dissolve the metal shelving it was stored upon, as well as the metal containers of other products nearby!
Fortunately, most muriatic acid sold now is in plastic bottles with safety seals to prevent leakage. And the moral of this story? It is wise to dispose of leftover acid properly and immediately. (See disposal tips at the end of this article.)"
*From “*Muriatic Acid and Cleaning Masonry Surfaces”
“Do whatcha oughter, add acid to water.” Old sailor’s saw.
Well that plastic isn’t so good when left outside… I had a gallon splash me when I pushed down to turn the lid!
I did the 100 yard dash to the swimming pool!
John
Like I said, vinegar is much safer and you’ll get the same results, but you’ll just have to wait a couple days for them to soak.
Coca Cola works well, too. At sea, I soaked some brass fittings in it, overnight, ant they were clean as a whistle, the next morning.
Couldn’t find the last of my muratic acid, so into the vinegar they went. Will pull them Tuesday and see what the results are. Will post an update.
FWIW I’ve used vinegar on clamps that had lots of Alkali build up. I tumbled the same clamps for hours in my brass ammo tumbler with no effect. Overnight in straight vinegar and they looked like new with no scrubbing. Bill