i even “made” a dedicated tool for that.
that even serves for thicker temporary (in this case 8 years) fixes.
(if you don’t have to - never fix a fix)
i even “made” a dedicated tool for that.
that even serves for thicker temporary (in this case 8 years) fixes.
(if you don’t have to - never fix a fix)
Echoing others, I screwed the lugs to the nearest rail joiner (Train Li / Massoth style).
But I used the non-crimped lugs that came with the clamps. I basically jammed the lug into the strands, and soldered the connection. Never had a problem in, let’s see, 13 years.
[edit] I was going to use crimped lugs connectors but was strongly advised not to do so because of oxidation & loosening between the stranded copper wire and the lug).
FWIW, this is #10 landscaping wire, intended for sprinklers and low voltage wiring. Seems to be standing up well. For polarity, one side has a ridge, the other doesn’t.
For wet locations I think you got good advice on crimps. I solder them too.
For ring terminals I remove the insulation if there is some then tin the inside of the terminal crimp area. Insert tinned wire, heat and add a bit more solder.
Per above comments Bill, I’m actually a solder kid too. Never owned a ratchet crimper so I can’t advise (and it was 20+yrs ago. ). I just threw the failed terminations away and did a permanent job. Plenty of others in the trade used them with no major issues.
To be honest a low cost tool will prob suit as you won’t have the high use a professional crimper sees so wear will be minimal - but I’d solder any outdoor connection anyway.
Cheers
N