Large Scale Central

🧩 Who Likes 3D Puzzles?

He has several scaled for 1.25" (O gauge) track, which is common for 2 ft gauge locos. He told me the Ingot 0-4-0 is about 1:20. The 2" gauge locos are 1/26th he says.

He’d sell a lot more if he used a consistent scale. His UK LBSC coaches are beautiful, but what scale? How about that nice Wason passenger coach?

I’ve had some discussions with Mr Duck (?) about re-scaling the models and making them work on 45mm track, instead of 2" gauge.

The Wason coach may be standard gauge? Maybe not? I can’t get Google to find me a prototype. How about if it was 1/29th? It is currently 1/25th, so it would fit with the Aristo Classis 2-8-0.

Ain’t my cup of tea however the Wason is pretty freaking cool and I see a TON of ā€œwhore upā€ potential if it’s good quality wood and the pictures dimensions are pretty accurate at 21" long.

I wonder as this is CAD /laser produced that scaling this product up or down might be relatively easy (at least compared with injection moulding). What do you guys with laser cutters think?

Maybe between your conversation and my email, he will stsrt working on that. I’m sure others have asked him this, too.

Having said that, I like the idea of building one of thr super scale models to keep on the wall of my garage…

He says it is 1/25th, so it should fit with the Aristocraft Classic 2-8-0, etc.

My problem is whether it is std gauge or narrow gauge. He hasn’t told me the prototype yet - maybe it’s freelance,

He says no problem, when I asked.

You’re right about the scaling being sort of easy. If he does so in the 3D model (vs. just with the 2D patterns), he then has to re-export & set up the new pattern files.

The tricky bit is with the slots that have to accept a fixed tab thickness of plywood or other material. Since those don’t change, the slot width has to remain constant after scaling, otherwise the fit becomes too loose or too tight.

An advantage to scaling in the 3D model is that instead of making a slot width be a hard-typed number, in some packages it can be a variable which is adjusted, instantly making all the slots the proper width after scaling.

For the re-scaling to be easy, it sounds like Mr Duck is using tricks like that.

This guy’s shop / store is insane. The details are amazing, like the backhead at ~2:20, and lots of working valve gear.

He’s clearly modeling to certain guages, though they may be of his own choice.

Interesting that he’s been commissioned by a number of RR museums around the world to make a model of one of their faves. So that gives him work and another product, and the museum a cool kit to sell. The boy be livin the dream!

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Ya’ see I don’t have that problem and this is where modeling by eye pays off. Like the rest of the quote stated originally …It would be cool to ā€œwhore it upā€ . I ain’t paying $100 for it though. Cause the freaking shipping will kill me!

I built one of R Duck’s locos, a model of WW&F #9. It was fun. I had some issues but it looked pretty good when all was said and done. I glued some stuff slightly out of position, which resulted it being out of gauge on the track…but so what really.

My first post in quite a while,

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Good to see you posting here again Eric. I’ve been following the beautiful craftsmanship you have been putting into Coach 9 and occasionally a video of your RR.

So, I ended up getting one of these kits for Christmas! I really enjoyed putting it together. I have video taken of the work, but I still need to edit it into a watchable format.

Also, it turns out, I went to high school with the owner, Tripp Aquadro. He’s a few years older than I am. But we reconnected over the weekend at the Amherst show. He’s very friendly and super into what he does. Those ā€˜super scale’ models are huge!

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John, it looks great!

Assuming it’s powered, what motor block does it take?

It is not powered. I’m planning to build a powered box car that will push it.

I forgot to say that I modified the kit to add the headlamp to the engine. It’s powered by a button cell battery in the cab.

Get behind me Satan, and don’t push! :smiling_imp: :thinking: :rofl:

I’ve not seen that before, but am looking forward to seeing your ideas on that John.

powered box car that will push it.

Way back in my college days, I put together plastic kit in OO scale of the Bullied (Southern Ry. of England’s Chief Mechanical Engineer) Battle of Britain class streamlined express locomotive. The kit was made by a company called Rosebud Kitmaster. Although their locomotive kits were unpowered, I recall that the advertising on the box stated that the company also offered a powered goods van (British for box car) kit, so model builders would be able to run their built-up locomotives.

So that idea has been around for at least 60 years.

Regards, David Meashey

How well would these work going over switches? I would imagine the flanges must be really thick. I am interested in a couple of the 0-4-0s but have LGB R1 turnout and would be worried these would jump the frogs constantly. (Edit) nevermind, I read more, these are 2" gauge so not even G, boo!

There are a couple Tripp makes that are 45mm gauge. And you make a good point. the wood is 1/8" thick. So, maybe too big for switches. I didn’t even consider that!

The train kits from Occre either have heavy cardstock flanges or metal wheels rims so they work on G scale track and turnouts. This may be something for him to consider. He would have a much wider pool of potential buyers if he made these G accessible.