Kadee and a long screwdriver. I cut the uncoupling rod off because I don’t use them.
Terry
Curmudgeon mcneely said:
Anything but Kadees. With some caveats.
No Aristo couplers.
They don’t couple with anything else unless you close them both and jam one down into the other.
USA’s don’t usually get used…however, visiting equipment with USA’s work just fine with our equipment.
Bachmann, Lionel, Delton, those are all used, and no tools to operate them required. Plus, no front suspension spring out of a 1958 Cadillac painted gold strapped to the side of the coupler.
20 years outdoors, almost ten before that indoors, no real issues.
TOC
I’ve found that when I weather the coupler, along with the rest of the car, the gold paint on the Cadirac suspension spring gets covered up, and you don’t tend to notice it so much. 
Wow, how long has it been since the new KD coupler has been out with no spring showing?
Couple years?
I use Bachmann couplers. I modified them and then body mount. They work good for me and can handle 6 ft dia curves. Plus I get them for free from people who use kd.
Mostly Accucraft. I admit that they don’t always couple together with the pin. I’ll have to try Kevin’s trick with Neolube.
Curmudgeon mcneely said:
Plus, no front suspension spring out of a 1958 Cadillac painted gold strapped to the side of the coupler.
Mine are from the rear suspension of a 58 chevy station wagon…I can’t afford the Cadillac ones…
Kadees, magnetic uncouplers in the ties where I use them often, and the 0-5-0 for places that they are not.
Certain cars I leave the stock couplers, USAT streamliners.
The kadee magnet is not proprietary, you can use super magnets, there is a guy who sells kits for HO using these.
Greg
Most of my couplers are kadee’s, but with USA’s 60 ft boxcars, and autoracks, I’m using the USA couplers on them, because of their coupler design… However, the USA couplers do happen to uncouple once in a while…
Kadee’s are uncoupled with either a screw driver, or lifting the cars slightly…
KDs and a screwdriver…
Bart “Mr. Worldwide” Salmons said:
KDs and a screwdriver…
And… after two or three screwdrivers, he has to lift the cars. Getting the cars back on the rails is a real challenge, too.
Nope…Scotch…Neat…
All of my couplers are Accucraft. My 1:20 EBT models have 1/32 couplers with Carmer style uncoupling levers which connect directly to the locking pin of the coupler. Push down on the handle to uncouple. When coupling, if the pin does not drop, one can lift up on the handle which pushes down on the pin. I occasionally squirt some graphite dust into the coupler which lubricates the knuckle and the locking pin. On the D&RGW equipment with 1/20 couplers, the uncoupling levers are attached to the locking pin via a chain. If the coupler locking pin does not drop fully, I need to push it down with a digit.
In either scale, if the Accucraft couplers are closed they will couple to a KD.
Old KD’s and a screwdriver.
If you operate, or plan on operations in the future; it’s best to standardize, on one make of coupler.
Transition cars, are fine, short-term, but long term, in operations, having one standard coupler is best.
What coupler you choose, is up to you, but set the standard before you amass your fleet, so conversion costs are spread over time.
Whenever I purchase a piece of rolling stock, I automatically include the price of the conversion pair of couplers.
When deciding on your coupler of choice; try different ones out, to see which ones work best for you, and consider the experiences of others…then choose.
For the record; I use the Kadee #1’s, and all are body mounted. With over 300 pieces of rolling stock in the inventory, my experience has been very good with them. I have never regretted going with them when Kadee first produced them.
On the Pizza, Link/Pin couplers from Ozark/LGB/or Sri Lanka, never uncouple, reach in with fingers or long tweezer to pull or drop pins.
On the Harbor Layout, Bachmann knuckles, because they are inexpensive, reasonably easy to mount, and work well enough for me. To uncouple I use a flat screwdriver to pop the pins from under, they usually couple together without any intervention.
I’ve found a satisfactory way to body mount USAT, Aristo and Bachmann coupler shanks that work as a stop gap until I can get Kadees. I have large radius curves, to be sure, the smallest being 5 ft radius, with 10 ft radius as lead ins. They don’t work too well on anything less than 4 ft radius, though.
I’m about 50/50 Kadee #1 scale couplers and Accucraft 1:32 couplers. Like Geoff, I model the EBT, so these work out perfectly for the 3/4-sized couplers used by the EBT (and many other narrow gauge railroads.) I find I still prefer the Kadees for ease of coupling, though uncoupling requires a flat-bladed screwdriver or the “lift and separate” method. The Accucraft couplers look much more prototypical, and are easy to uncouple (just life the lift bar to pull the pin), but take a little more force to couple, and you do have to check to make sure the pin dropped (likewise prototypical.) The two brands couple together nicely.
My plan was to convert all my older Kadee stuff to Accucraft, but I think at this point I’ll just use the Accucraft couplers on my new stuff as I build it, and convert the Kadee stuff only if needed.
Later,
K
Kevin said: “…and you do have to check to make sure the pin dropped (likewise prototypical.)”
I agree.
When David Brightbill, Conductor for the real E.B.T. was visiting Roger Cutter’s open house he witnesses me fooling around with a finicky coupler and said " Oh, I see they work just like the real ones."
Geoff Ringle said:
Kevin said: “…and you do have to check to make sure the pin dropped (likewise prototypical.)”
I agree.
When David Brightbill, Conductor for the real E.B.T. was visiting Roger Cutter’s open house he witnesses me fooling around with a finicky coupler and said " Oh, I see they work just like the real ones."
…:)… ROTFLMAO