The blue plastic templates are so he cuts, drills, and notches the wood parts properly…most of the time.
Jim, LOL. A hobby knife hasn’t fulfilled it’s destiny until it has tasted human blood.
Jim Rowson said:
Now Cliff: if you didn’t cut yourself is it really a model?
Probably not, Jim. But rest assured, the “christening” is coming. Very obliging that the V&T used “barn red” for their MOW cars, haha!
And you’re absolutely right, David… (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Korm Kormsen said:
just to get it straight…
what are the templates, and what the model pieces??
in other words: will this be a wood-, or a plexi-model?
(just confused)
Hi Korm, thanks for asking. Yeah, like David said, I’m just lasering acrylic scrap for cutting / drilling / notching guides on this, because that gives me a lot more accuracy than otherwise. The model will mainly be wood, and a bunch of 3d printed parts.
Will I be getting a nice set of plans like I got for the flanger? (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)This derrick is going to be cool.
Chris Kieffer said:
Will I be getting a nice set of plans like I got for the flanger? (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)This derrick is going to be cool.
I will do you better and give you a set of plans for a snow plow.
Cliff Jennings said:
Korm Kormsen said:
just to get it straight…
what are the templates, and what the model pieces??
in other words: will this be a wood-, or a plexi-model?
(just confused)
Hi Korm, thanks for asking. Yeah, like David said, I’m just lasering acrylic scrap for cutting / drilling / notching guides on this, because that gives me a lot more accuracy than otherwise. The model will mainly be wood, and a bunch of 3d printed parts.
thanks for the explication. So this time around the more realistic material will be the model.
Cliff Jennings said:
Korm Kormsen said:
just to get it straight…
what are the templates, and what the model pieces??
in other words: will this be a wood-, or a plexi-model?
(just confused)
Hi Korm, thanks for asking. Yeah, like David said, I’m just lasering acrylic scrap for cutting / drilling / notching guides on this, because that gives me a lot more accuracy than otherwise. The model will mainly be wood, and a bunch of 3d printed parts.
Your scraps and templates look better than my model pieces.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)
Hardly, Bruce!!! You’re a real craftsman, for sure! But thanks, the acrylic does look accurate. And I’ll pass your compliments on to the laser. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Chris Kieffer said:
Will I be getting a nice set of plans like I got for the flanger? (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)This derrick is going to be cool.
Haha! But no, I won’t be doing the plans this time. What a time-consumer that was for the flanger, I tell ya! (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Thanks!
I was about to cut and spike some rail to the display ties, thanks to Rooster – he mailed me some spikes that are perfect for this. But right before cutting the ol’ code 335, it occurred to me that I should use code 250 to make it look more realistic.
But first, I went back to what the V&T used. Long story short, it was 60lb/yd rail, measuring 4.03" high. At 1:24, that’s “code 168,” but no such thing is available. Nearest is 215, which is G gauge smaller rail. Tiny!!
Trying to find a source for just 6’ of the stuff… like, 3 2’ pieces. [Edit: I found that Llagas Creek sells individual 6’ sticks of 215, so I’m home free!
Back to the model itself, after 3 half-day whacks at it, I finally got all the brass cut & deburred (and in some cases, bent). So I think all the parts are now in hand. Here’s the brass bits,
The wood bits,
Special hardware,
And all the 3D printed bits,
I’ve got some travel coming up for a week or two, so I won’t be able to get at assembly just yet. But maybe I’m going too fast on this project anyway… (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
Cheers,
===Cliffy
Looks like your going into kit manufacturing(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif) Better get started on the assembly instructions(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
On the serious side, am looking forward to seeing your further progress on this unique car.
Pretty neat, Cliff. I’m surprised you’re not planning to print some code 168 rail! (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
ONCE AGAIN …put the crack pipe down Clifford !
BTW …about 1/4 of the special hardware can probably be found at Michaels in the jewelry section if you look hard enough. Great place to meet women if you are in the market which you are not and they don’t sell kama sutra swings either as I asked .
Cliff,
Code 172 rail is available. S scale rail. I found some a while back for my snow dozer project. Nickel Silver. I’d offer to mail it to you, but what I have isn’t enough. Edit: I could try and cast up some resin rail from the pieces that I have. I probably could get a 1’ section.
Here is a link to an online supplier.
http://www.portlines.com/track.htm
"American “S” Gauge Track Section from Classic Trains feature solid premium code .172 Nickel-Silver Rail Weathered with 65% Brass, 12% Nickel-Silver for optimum electrical contact, with no oxidation or rust for smooth train operation. Rail joiners are weathered and have a detailed six bolt-head design (see close-up below) and come installed on all track and switches. Ties are molded from high quality ABS plastic, UV resistant, and have a wood grain pattern that adds to the prototypical look of the track. A snap lock system securely holds the track sections together to ensure exact alignment and good electrical contact, and when track sections are joined together tie spacing remains uniform. This is an exclusive design found only with this track system. "
Cliff Jennings said:
I was about to cut and spike some rail to the display ties, thanks to Rooster – he mailed me some spikes that are perfect for this. But right before cutting the ol’ code 335, it occurred to me that I should use code 250 to make it look more realistic.
But first, I went back to what the V&T used. Long story short, it was 60lb/yd rail, measuring 4.03" high. At 1:24, that’s “code 168,” but no such thing is available. Nearest is 215, which is G gauge smaller rail. Tiny!!
You didn’t ask about rail ?
Perhaps Bob Cope can chime in on this as he gave me a break down on 1:1 rail weight and putting it to scale.
Rooster: heads to the city for some crack
Thanks guys, haha!!
Craig, thanks for that idea. I’d looked at S, and I thought its codes were smaller, but the .172 height you mentioned would be perfect. It’s not listed for sale, so I em’d them.
Rooster, kama sutra swing? I thought it was more like a hammock. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)But I didn’t mention rails before, because the oversized-ness of code 332 only occurred to me yesterday. I’m still amazed that the 60lb rail I need is only half that height!
The 215 rail is on order, but I’ll get the 172 if they’ll sell me only a little. After that, it might come down to whether the Bachmann wheel flanges clear the spikes (without turning them down on the lathe I don’t have). (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Just heard back from Portlines, they don’t have any code 172. But that’s ok, 215 will sure look small! And with the odd display design (with longish sections of unsupported rails), the extra sturdiness will probably be a good thing. Thanks for the tip though Craig.
I glued the main body frame together yesterday, using the acrylic jig. Today was the decking.
The black plate is the base of the derrick, secured with #0 brass screws. Some Jax blackener has just been applied to the screwheads in the above pic. Below shows the finished deck, with edging in process.
The deck is completed here, including the boards to support truck flanges while being transported. That board in the lower left is just a spacer for those.
An underside shot.
That’s it for this weekend,
===Cliffy
The #0 x32 screws are a bit too big for proper scale so I would suggest you step them down a bit !
(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)
" Rooster " said:
The #0 x32 screws are a bit too big for proper scale so I would suggest you step them down a bit !
(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)
I hear they had some big-a$$ screwdrivers on the V&T though, haha!
OK, well since I couldn’t find anything smaller than #0 in brass, and since the real ones were some sort of long flat head slotless bolt anyway (of about #0 scale size, as far as I can tell), I solved the problem with Jax. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
