Just a bit of tubing, a way to cut it, and when the axle is not in, it’s easy to put the tubing on. You can use a vise to press the wheels in.
Eric’s spacer blocks ensure proper gauge and spacing https://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29170/fs-axle-reassembly-jig-for-usat-locomotives
Greg
Not really so easy to put the tubing on. If you simply try to press it on, it will dig into/gall the plastic gear.
After I cut the length, I put the small piece into my flaring tool to flare the end a bit making it easy to press on.
If you use the tubing on my site, and that Ted referenced, and have the axle out, it slips on relatively easily, there is other tubing that is a too tight fit. In fact I have had a couple cases where I worried that the tubing was too loose, but inserting the axle took up the slack.
I have chamfered the end of the plastic a couple of times, if the axle is so cracked that it has “grown” significantly. It was easier for me to do this than flare the tube, but YMMV.
Greg
Maybe the illustration below will be helpful:
-Ted
That is a lot easier that the old fishing string and CA method … (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
I have used this to cleanup the brass cut offs .
I’ve repaired one SD40-2 split axle. I’m starting to install decoders into the rest of my engines. Beginning to wonder if it would be best to put sleeves on the axles before they split. Any one put them on in advance before axles split?
Eric Warhol said:
I’ve repaired one SD40-2 split axle. I’m starting to install decoders into the rest of my engines. Beginning to wonder if it would be best to put sleeves on the axles before they split. Any one put them on in advance before axles split?
Yes
Absolutely! Any time I open a USAT loco, I sleeve all axles…
They will all eventually split… based on having them for 20 years…
Greg
Didn’t they change something to prevent them from splitting? Or do those also split too?
What size brass tubing is used for the collar? I’ve forgotten.
Steve Featherkile said:
What size brass tubing is used for the collar? I’ve forgotten.
Steve,
Scroll back and you can see illustration that shows:
K & S #9828 (10mm dia. x 0.45mm wall thickness) Brass Tube
-Ted
IIRC, I just bought a 3 foot length of 3/8" OD from the big box hardware store and it is like the bunny, it just keeps going and going and going…
Thanks, Ted.
Thanks, Ted.
Todd Brody said:
IIRC, I just bought a 3 foot length of 3/8" OD from the big box hardware store and it is like the bunny, it just keeps going and going and going…
Caution!
When deciding to use what size tubing to make repair collars for the USA Trains split plastic gear axles, keep in mind that tubing is measured by outside diameter, whereas pipe is measured by inside diameter, therefore, it’s critical to know the inside diameter of the tubing when using it to make the collars to slip over the USA Trains split plastic gear axles.
Expecting 3/8 diameter tubing to work in this regard, as with any tubing, is consequently dependant on its wall thickness.
For the K & S #9828, its inside diameter (expressed in English units of inches) is 0.018 inches for wall thickness, thus, x2 = 0.036 inch (doubled to account for the circular surround) and then subtracted from the K&S tube outside diameter of 0.394 inch yields 0.357 inch. That is the target value applicable for the repair collars to fit over the plastic gear axles for the USA Trains F3, GPs and NW2 - there may be others.
-Ted
The walls on my tubing appear thinner than in the photos. As I said, I flare the end a bit and these push right on in the vice.
Ted Doskaris said:
Todd Brody said:
IIRC, I just bought a 3 foot length of 3/8" OD from the big box hardware store and it is like the bunny, it just keeps going and going and going…
Caution!
When deciding to use what size tubing to make repair collars for the USA Trains split plastic gear axles, keep in mind that tubing is measured by outside diameter, whereas pipe is measured by inside diameter, therefore, it’s critical to know the inside diameter of the tubing when using it to make the collars to slip over the USA Trains split plastic gear axles.
Expecting 3/8 diameter tubing to work in this regard, as with any tubing, is consequently dependant on its wall thickness.
For the K & S #9828, its inside diameter (expressed in English units of inches) is 0.018 inches for wall thickness, thus, x2 = 0.036 inch (doubled to account for the circular surround) and then subtracted from the K&S tube outside diameter of 0.394 inch yields 0.357 inch. That is the target value applicable for the repair collars to fit over the plastic gear axles for the USA Trains F3, GPs and NW2 - there may be others.
-Ted
So, Ted and all involved here, I am looking to invest in a press, Eric’s die , and tubing to fix my many axles on the many old USA ENGINES I own and run . You mentioned in detail K & S #9828 tubing , I had captured another size somewhere in these threads so is #9828 exactly what I need to press on my axles ?
thanks
Nick Hernick said:
So, Ted and all involved here, I am looking to invest in a press, Eric’s die , and tubing to fix my many axles on the many old USA ENGINES I own and run . You mentioned in detail K & S #9828 tubing , I had captured another size somewhere in these threads so is #9828 exactly what I need to press on my axles ?
thanks
Yes, K&S #9828 tubing is what I used on the USA Trains F3 / GPs and NW2 2 axle locos. I have yet to do an SD40-2 or SD70 3 axle loco, so I can’t say if the K&S #9828 tubing is good for those at this time.
I have Eric’s die, and it makes it so easy to get the wheels in gauge whilst assuring the gear is center as needed for the 2 axle locos. It’s used with a device to press the wheels on, which could be a dedicated press, drill press or vise. Prior to getting Eric’s die, I had improvised a method to press the wheels on so the gear would be centered.
My thanks to Eric for such a great product.
-Ted
It’s good for all USAT diesels, although there are slight variations.
again, here is a link: https://elmassian.com/index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/usat-motive-power/split-axles
I recommend getting Eric’s spacer blocks.
Greg
