So it looks like Enginear Joe swapped the original USAT wheels with the large NWSL wheels and Craig went with the smaller profile wheels. Or are they the same ones with the same flange profiles?
If you are doing a static model go Fine Scale, if you are running on commercial track, use the larger flange wheels.
George’s page was last updated in 2011 …
NWSL at one point made two flange sizes; exact scale and semi scale. The exact scale flanges require 100% perfect trackwork (I base this off the assumption that P87 and P48 have exact scale flanges and it requires 100% perfect track). The semi scale is smaller than the regular USAT flange, but bigger than the fine scale. I used the semi scale.
talked to the owner since i prefer the ns wheels, he says he cannot buy the nickel silver stock of proper quality any more.
Greg
Some good information here. The idea of all traction tires is definitely intriguing. I like extra pulling power. I don’t think I’ll bother putting the traction tires back (for now). I’ll leave the one engine as is. I might experiment with Greg’s mention of fixing the gears so I never have to worry about it.
Craig, TOC’s layout is aluminum and been around for a while. He said the oxidation helps with traction. My layout is brass and pretty new so the track traction is probably less. I have a 4%ish grade and I definitely cannot pull 40 cars up that grade, with or without traction tires and only one engine. The grade does have curves though so that will probably make a diff.
This https://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=150&Itemid=167 looks to be the process for fixing them per Greg’s comment above. Reading through it, what is the best way to cut the brass tubing?
I use a tubing cutter.
Also, it is easier to press the sleeve on if you flare the end of the brass rather than chamfer the plastic. I use a K&B tube flaring kit for this. I press them together using my drill press to push the axle in.
I also have a “C” shaped piece of metal that slides over the axle and allows me to pop the sides apart.
If you find the referenced thread, it tells about various methods as well as what diameter tube to use.
I’ll have to look for the thread. I found the article on Greg’s site that goes through the steps.
Todd, I am curious about this “C” shaped piece of metal. Can you provide a picture or more description of how you use it to pop them apart.
I do have a few spare wheels/gears to play around with this process without having to take any of the wheel sets off this engine. It will give me time to obtain the press, tubing and tubing cutter.
Just a piece of 1/8" steel from ??? that has a square hole in the center (can be round) smaller than the wheel diameter with an opening to that center so that it can slip over the axle. This gives you something to pull on/pry against to remove the wheels from the gear without messing up the wheels.
I don’t like the tubing cutter myself, because it tends to reduce the diameter of the tube at the ends and then makes it harder to put the tubing on the axle casting.
I slice the tubing off in pieces with a dremel cutoff wheel. faster too.
Greg
By the way, in response to an earlier question, you can also buy NWSL wheels with narrower (closer to prototype) width treads. They look nice, but you need to make sure your switches are in perfect shape, and most stock switches have excessive flangeway widths and wing rail flangeway widths, so you most likely will have the wheels drop into the frogs somewhat at least.
Greg
Todd did mention the flaring tool which corrects the pinch cut from the cutter.
I use a jeweler’s saw, mostly.
Nicolas Teeuwen said:
I’ll have to look for the thread. I found the article on Greg’s site that goes through the steps.
Todd, I am curious about this “C” shaped piece of metal. Can you provide a picture or more description of how you use it to pop them apart.
I do have a few spare wheels/gears to play around with this process without having to take any of the wheel sets off this engine. It will give me time to obtain the press, tubing and tubing cutter.
Nicolas here is the puller I have used for years https://www.ebay.com/i/263327976831?rt=nc . I use a cheap chop saw to cut tubing and clean with reamer.
Richard
Nic here is a link to one of first people to do this at first he used fish line and wrapped the axle ends but has changed to the tubing. http://ovgrs.org/the-trains/repairs/usa-trains-diesel-repairs/
Richard
Maybe i’m just lucky but I haven’t had any issues with axle problems on my USA fleet of GP-38’s , F-3’s or GP-30’s . The problem area i’ve been having is the backing plate that the journal boxes screw to. They develop cracks around the screws and eventually crumble into pieces. What do you do to remedy that issue ?
These is an easy way to tell whether you have an issue of not. Many people may have this issue but just don’t know it because they don’t “tax” the engine.
Turn the engine upside down and put power to the contacts so that the wheels turn. Now grab a wheel/axle and see if it stops turning while everything else keeps moving. If so, the gear is probably cracked or at least stripped.
mike dorsch said:
Maybe i’m just lucky but I haven’t had any issues with axle problems on my USA fleet of GP-38’s , F-3’s or GP-30’s . The problem area i’ve been having is the backing plate that the journal boxes screw to. They develop cracks around the screws and eventually crumble into pieces. What do you do to remedy that issue ?
Could be an incompatible lube. B’mann Shays were notorious for this.
Other than cracked axles, the problem I have is that the little tabs on the motor cover that locate the sliders and keeps them from falling out break off and the sliders do fall out when you lift the engines. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)
Here’s a couple of pictures of the part that fails the most for me . I do run these locomotives hard sometimes , pulling 50 + cars on occasion. They are old now and have many , many miles on them but I still expect to get a few more years on them. Great products ! 
Hard to see, but looks like the bearings are worn out, that will help you crack the sideframes too.
Greg