Greg, you should know never, ever to give me an opening like that.
I wouldn’t use a separate power bus…or a primary…or even power to the rails…
Curmudgeon said:
Greg, you should know never, ever to give me an opening like that.I wouldn’t use a separate power bus…or a primary…or even power to the rails…
Several years ago a club member came with with using a large soft drink bottle with a bicycle tire valve installed in the cap. He claimed to be able to fill the bottle with 100 lbs of air and run his air controls all day on one fill.
Also, if you run a larger diameter tubing from a remote air supply location it will reduce the air friction and thus the delay factor in the operation of the air motors.
Dave (hope that is your name!), part of my philosophy of having fun on forums and keeping tension down is to poke fun at myself, or leave myself open !!!
I learn a lot from all the posts, and hope I contribute something useful along the way!
I love the air operated stuff, and that tubing lies down much easier than pesky wires!
On the comment about larger tubing, yes it would reduce resistance in the lines, but I think the other way, slowing the motor down gives even more realistic operation. Never liked the SNAP of electric switches since I graduated from tinplate.
I think the EZ Aire people have flow restrictors that would help enhance the slow motion movement. Anyone know?
Regards, Greg
Outdoors, you are asking for trouble in many climes if you run power, have to have it work to an electronic circuit that may be affected by moisture either directly or over time with encroachment under seals, and then an electrical solenoid valve to operate the air motor.
In addidtion to power, and an air line, you will need a decoder (for hoever many you want it to control), an air motor, and a solenoid valv.
I’ve seen the prices of good solenoid valves.
Cheap, it ain’t.
Simple?
You have a cost per turnout, figuring the total air lines, air motors, solenoid valves, decoder, and all?
I agree with everything you said!
I wanted DCC control, so stuck with some electronics. With the decoders connected to any place on the rails, I have more flexibility in placing them and the solenoids. A bit better than the alternative of the switch motor out in the elements. So that’s part of my mitigation plan.
I can put them in a sealed trackside structure and should probably succeed. So far, no problems in the last 6 months. Since I use quad decoders, it helps consolidate the parts in fewer locations.
My connection to the decoder is the solenoid and 2 diodes, the diodes attach directly to the decoder screw terminals. I’ve minimized the number of connections, so that should help.
Cost is certainly a consideration. The quad decoder is relatively cheap, about $60, the solenoids are about $27 each, not cheap, but these are quality ones.
For me, the convenience of no turnout maintenance and the remote control of the turnouts from the same controller that runs the locos is worth it. Expensive but worth it to me.
Simple? Not as simple as a manual ground throw, certainly. But so far trouble free, and I can power a new turnout in about 10 minutes, from swapping in the air motor, to throwing the turnout from my controller. So, not so painful. Simple in terms of complexity, not super simple; simple in terms of operation, pretty much.
Regards, Greg
Curmudgeon said:
Outdoors, you are asking for trouble in many climes if you run power, have to have it work to an electronic circuit that may be affected by moisture either directly or over time with encroachment under seals, and then an electrical solenoid valve to operate the air motor.In addidtion to power, and an air line, you will need a decoder (for hoever many you want it to control), an air motor, and a solenoid valv.
I’ve seen the prices of good solenoid valves.
Cheap, it ain’t.
Simple?
You have a cost per turnout, figuring the total air lines, air motors, solenoid valves, decoder, and all?
Okay, so it’s $15 + $27 per switch, deduct the cost of the toggle.
That’s at least $30 more per turnout.
I suppose it all boils down to how you operate your trains.
If you sit on the deck, or if you follow the trains while “operating”.
I use Tenmille Ground Throws on all, except for 2 which due to location, are far easier to operate via air toggles.
I may do another batch at Malfunction Junction, so the furthest one can be thrown from a distance.
My other issue with handhelds with a lot of buttons and/or readouts is we run in all weather, rain, snow, and at night.
Having to carry a flashlight to see the faceplate is not an option, and the last thing I want is the ability of anyone anywhere to throw switches even out of their area, like under a train.
Takes a lot of planning to make it “operator-proof”.
I agree.
Luckily, having no kids and a wife that works full time, I can absorb the cost. It’s not for everyone.
Actually, I walk alongside the trains, but my lot is small, and only about 450 feet of track.
Of course, living in San Diego, we have outlawed rain and snow during ANY train running day, and especially weekends!
There’s enough ambient light to see the keyboard, and I use the NCE pro cabs, so there is a dedicated accessory button, so it’s not too bad. The NCE display is backlit. The accessory button is real close to the bright red emergency stop button, something whose location I ALWAYS know!!
I just like to be able to keep standing when I throw turnouts. My railroad is at ground level, and since I’m 6’ 2", it is a long way down! (OK, call me lazy!!)
So far only about 8 turnouts set this way, but the yard will really cost! Oh well!
Regards, Greg
Ah.
I have a small railroad, too.
I only have about 75 turnouts.
Mine is all elevated, one foot to 5 feet.
We decided when we started almost 15 years ago it would behoove us to build it high and then enjoy it, rather than on the ground and not be able to get down for uncoupling and switches.
I, too, was track power.
For two months, anyway, until the LGB joiners literally ate in half at the sharp bends.
We needed controllers you could put into a small zip-lock and run in the rain, 4 buttons and a shift key, and not have to have School of the Boat sessions to train guys how to operate the stuff.
I have Malibu lighting for the buildings, that’s the only power outdoors.
We’ve run through 2 or 3 power outtages, the guys panic, I ask if they can see the cars in front of them with the headlight, and read the waybill by headlight, the answer is yes, and the only “casualty” is the coffee pot gets cold.
We used to do this every week, but any more, I can’t, so it’s about twice a month.
I just can’t imagine electronics outdoors up here.
TOC
By far the simplest way of R/C’ing turnouts is to use solenoids and the EZ-Air system.
The solenoids can all be in the one location.
I’ll be announcing the RCS way of doing it soon.
Alright Tony ! Good morning to Ya .
TonyWalsham said:
By far the simplest way of R/C'ing turnouts is to use solenoids and the EZ-Air system.The solenoids can all be in the one location.
I’ll be announcing the RCS way of doing it soon.