Trucolor paint

[Jim_Rowson]

The bottle says “acetone” and you need to use thinner to clean up.

[Devon_Sinsley]

@Jim_Rowson

e bottle says “acetone”

As in acetone based or acetone to clean it up? I don’t profess to know much about paints as I have been pretty well stuck in my ways. But I had no idea there was an acetone based paint. But that seems intriguing. I assume it is a fairly thin viscosity paint? I would think, not knowing anything at all about what I am talking about, that anything acetone based would be thin(ish).

[Jim_Rowson]

Seems thinnish. I add a bit of thinner before airbrushing it. Probably acetone in both the paint and the thinner.

[Devon_Sinsley]

Okay I might have some serious cognitive issues. After googling something other than that above link, this is the EXACT paints I ended up buying to do the STMA colors with. I guess I had better do my homework.

I haven’t used these before. When I did my first colors for STMA (see my post to Bruce) it was with Floquil. I bought these in the same colors as my floquil formula. Hope I have good results with them.

[Devon_Sinsley]

Seems to me know that my foggy brain is jogged that we may have already had this conversation about tru color paints.

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

TruColor paints are enamel based. There’s plenty of paint options available still in both acrylic and enamels. I’m not worried.

Scalecoat paint actually seemed more popular as a enamel paint than TruColor in the forums I’ve read. But I try to stick to acrylics (Badger and Vallejo are my go to)

[Jim_Rowson]

FYI:

Floquil Replacements

Not sure if this has ever been posted or not. I have never been to concerned with exacting colors but with my STMA project I wanted to get it right and I knew there were formulas online to get the right colors using floquil paints. First is a list of prototype colors and the floquil paint mixes to get those colors; its found on railfonts website. prototype colors. But what do you do when you don’t have Floquil paints. Model Railroad Hobbyist put out a PDF that gives you alternatives using Testo…

Yes, we seem to have had this discussion before.

[Devon_Sinsley]

@Jim_Rowson

Yes, we seem to have had this discussion before.

I make no defense, I am losing my marbles.

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

That implies you had marbles to begin with…

[Cliff_Jennings]

Not sure if this was already posted but here goes

Floquil%20Color%20Chart.pdf

[Devon_Sinsley]

thankfully I am not really a prototype guy. After this discussion and the jogging of my now defunked memory I am glad I don’t have to try and figure out how and where to buy my paint. After a couple engines and a caboose I should be free from the chains of prototypical color.

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

MRH has quite a acrylic coloring matching guide. The older version of it is floating around online, but if you subscribe to MRH you can get the most up to date version. All for free.

PS, somehow I’m missing the quote feature on the reply button now?

[Jim_Rowson]

Craig:

Select part of an existing post and a quote button will float nearby.

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

@Jim_Rowson

Select part of an existing post and a quote button will float nearby.

Thanks. Figured it was something easy. Too many forums with slightly different quote features.

[Rooster]

Beavis and Butt-Head: Hey, you want to see something really cool? "Farting atomic explosion"

[John_Bouck]

Since all my models are built and maintained by the motley crew at the ER&I shop, they just paint with whatever they can find. Usually a rattle can from Lowes or Home Depot.

[John_Lenheiser]

Being an old model painter and have used mostly model railroad paints which are either not made anymore or just too hard to find, so I have gone with Rust Oleum X2 paints in spray cans. I have found I can find very close matches in most railroad colors, due note here, all my repaints are done in narrow gauge colors so I’m not looking for mainline colors for todays railroads. Rust Oleum has a good selection of browns, reddish browns, dark browns, etc. to get my personal railroad cars in a very close look to actual railroad colors. We all know that railroad cars all fade and to find two cars that look alike just doesn’t happen on the older narrow gauge railroads. Another thing is, I like painting in enamels, none of that water base stuff for me, it just does a crappy job in my estimation, but if it works for you then go with it. I will also add here, I sometimes use the paint from the spray cans and mix them together to get a more correct color if needed, I then spray the mixed color from my airbrush. Here is pic of a LGB Mogul painted with mixed Rust Oleum colors, the color Rio Grande Gold is spot on.
trainman

[Devon_Sinsley]

Honestly I never even considered just matching tattle can paint. Especially for the only railroad I care to get close it probably wouldn’t be hard. May have to give that a try. I already use the 2x paint alot. Should have thought of that myself.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

@John_Lenheiser

I sometimes use the paint from the spray cans and mix them together to get a more correct color if needed, I then spray the mixed color from my airbrush.

Hey John, cool idea. How do you dispense the paint to mix? Do you spray into a cup or container? I’ve done that to get a bit on a brush. Never thought about re-spraying it!

[John_Lenheiser]

Here is a video on YouTube that shows different ways of removing paint from spray cans, I have only used the straw method and not the puncher the can method. Pro Tip: Decanting Spray Paint - YouTube Due note there as several videos on this so just type in, Removing paint from spray cans on YouTube. It is important that you let the sprayed out paint air dry in the bottle so the spray propellent can dissolve from the paint, just watch videos for correct ways of doing it.
trainman