Large Scale Central

Trains in the front yard?

General Discussion
#41

Jake,

Are you planning two separate isolated loops? One around the town and one around the perimeter?

Yes, I’m considering it. I’m track power so this would let me run two trains. I’m thinking of linking the two loops with an insulated switch so I can move trains between the loops.

Elevation from the high end (ground level) to the low end at the sidewalk is about 16 inches. The town area is on a raised dirt mound and is at the same level as the high end.

I’m not very experienced in different track plans and am looking for advice on how to make it interesting within the space limitations.

Best,

TJ Lee

#42

Steve Featherkile said:

If all you want to run is very small, industrial stuff, that will work. If you want to run something larger, but still small, like a Big Hauler, I think that your curves are too tight. If you want to run a Dash 9 , it won’t make it around those curves without derailing.

Steve,

I have two Annie’s and a two truck Shay, and a Climax (all Bachmann). I’ll have to see if I can make the town loop work with 5’ curves at the top and bottom ends. The outer loop would be 8’ curve at the top and 10’ at the bottom. Of course I’ve not actually laid out any track to see if it will work.

Best,

TJ

#43

John Caughey said:

TJ,

That’s a good plan, you can reuse your track. Are you going to elevate and reuse your trestles too?

John,

Since the trestles in the front yard will be shorter I’ll probably build them from scratch (which I enjoy doing).

Best,

TJ Lee

#44

Tim Lee said:

Steve,

I have two Annie’s and a two truck Shay, and a Climax (all Bachmann). I’ll have to see if I can make the town loop work with 5’ curves at the top and bottom ends. The outer loop would be 8’ curve at the top and 10’ at the bottom. Of course I’ve not actually laid out any track to see if it will work.

Best,

TJ

you should be good to go!

#45

Dave Taylor said:

Again, If you put a “Y” between the bush and the big rock with the skull you will be able to reverse your running direction without touching the engine.

Dave,

Since I’m running track power a “Y” is beyond my technical ability electrically. Good idea though.

Best,

TJ Lee

#46

Tim Lee said:

Steve Featherkile said:

If all you want to run is very small, industrial stuff, that will work. If you want to run something larger, but still small, like a Big Hauler, I think that your curves are too tight. If you want to run a Dash 9 , it won’t make it around those curves without derailing.

Steve,

I have two Annie’s and a two truck Shay, and a Climax (all Bachmann). I’ll have to see if I can make the town loop work with 5’ curves at the top and bottom ends. The outer loop would be 8’ curve at the top and 10’ at the bottom. Of course I’ve not actually laid out any track to see if it will work.

Best,

TJ

Is that a 5 ft radius or diameter. You don’t say, and it makes a difference. Remember, a 5 ft diameter curve is a 2.5 ft radius curve, and that is quite tight.
Of course it is your railroad, so you can do as you please, but if it were me, I would set up that 5 ft diameter curve (if that is what it is) and see how my stuff goes through it.

#47

Tim Lee said:

Dave Taylor said:

Again, If you put a “Y” between the bush and the big rock with the skull you will be able to reverse your running direction without touching the engine.

Dave,

Since I’m running track power a “Y” is beyond my technical ability electrically. Good idea though.

Best,

TJ Lee

I like Daves idea as well but being a roundy round guy that runs track power myself I understand

#48

Steve,

Diameter. Never having run HO I don’t think in terms of radius. I know it’s tight but I’m limited by my available space. I know I’m trying to stuff a lot of stuff into a small area. Another reason I’m looking for suggestions and ideas from those here on the forum that know more than I.

Best,

TJ Lee

#49

Tim Lee said:

Dave Taylor said:

Again, If you put a “Y” between the bush and the big rock with the skull you will be able to reverse your running direction without touching the engine.

Dave,

Since I’m running track power a “Y” is beyond my technical ability electrically. Good idea though.

Best,

TJ Lee

A track powered Y is not so hard; I did one and can help you with it. If the plan includes a dead-end tail then the wiring and operation is quite simple. It’s well worth the effort.

#50

Tim Lee said:

Steve,

Diameter. Never having run HO I don’t think in terms of radius. I know it’s tight but I’m limited by my available space. I know I’m trying to stuff a lot of stuff into a small area. Another reason I’m looking for suggestions and ideas from those here on the forum that know more than I.

Best,

TJ Lee

Nothing wrong with 5ft Dia. My smallest is 6.5 dia. Vic is the master when it comes to working in small spaces. I always thought the smaller layouts have more charm and you can focus more on running.

#51

Shawn,

Vic is the master when it comes to working in small spaces.

Yes! I would love to have his knack of packing the most layout in the least space. Some pointers from Vic would be most welcome.

Best,

TJ Lee

#52

Send him a PM he has some great plans already made up.

#53

Jon Radder said:

A track powered Y is not so hard; I did one and can help you with it. If the plan includes a dead-end tail then the wiring and operation is quite simple. It’s well worth the effort.

Jon,

That sounds very appealing but I can’t visualize how it would layout and how the electrical issues would be simplified?

Best,

TJ

#54

A Wye with a dead end tail wouldn’t be difficult at all to wire. A double pole double throw switch from the auto parts store, 4 insulated rail joiners and some extra wire, is all the electrical parts you would need.

#55

David Maynard said:

A Wye with a dead end tail wouldn’t be difficult at all to wire. A double pole double throw switch from the auto parts store, 4 insulated rail joiners and some extra wire, is all the electrical parts you would need.

Even easier…, use an LGB EPL dpdt attached right to the turn-out motor and four LGB track insulators. Whatever way you throw the turn-out, the “tail block” track automatically takes care of itself properly aligning its polarity accordingly.

#56

TJ whats your min dia to work with (rolling stock restrictive diameter) I’ll try to set up something on CAD using your yard pic as a reference, its waaaaaaaay easier to lay this stuff out that way.

#57

Vic Smith said:

TJ whats your min dia to work with (rolling stock restrictive diameter) I’ll try to set up something on CAD using your yard pic as a reference, its waaaaaaaay easier to lay this stuff out that way.

Vic,

I’m running track power, engines available are Annie, 2 truck Shay, Climax, all Bachmann. I think an 8 foot diameter is possible at the high end although a bit tight given the 9 foot width. I think a 10 foot diameter is possible at the low (sidewalk end) although again a bit tight given the ~13 foot width. For the town loop I’m thinking 5 foot diameter curves at each end.

The engines are all capable of going through a 4 foot diameter curve if necessary, I just know to try to go as wide a curve as possible. But maybe I’m trying to go too wide for the space. I’ve just no experience with developing track plans.

Best,

TJ Lee

#58

Look good TJ. That’s is going to be a real neat area for a R.R.

One question and may have missed it… No problem having a R.R. in your neighborhood out front?
Be no tracks left over night here…
Have to put 1,000,000 sparkly volts to the tracks here. LOL.

#59

Noel Wilson said:

Look good TJ. That’s is going to be a real neat area for a R.R.

One question and may have missed it… No problem having a R.R. in your neighborhood out front?
Be no tracks left over night here…
Have to put 1,000,000 sparkly volts to the tracks here. LOL.

Noel,

Having track in the front yard is a risk, but a number of people here on the forum have had good experiences running in the front yard so I’m going to try it.

Best,

TJ Lee

#60

Todd Brody said:

David Maynard said:

A Wye with a dead end tail wouldn’t be difficult at all to wire. A double pole double throw switch from the auto parts store, 4 insulated rail joiners and some extra wire, is all the electrical parts you would need.

Even easier…, use an LGB EPL dpdt attached right to the turn-out motor and four LGB track insulators. Whatever way you throw the turn-out, the “tail block” track automatically takes care of itself properly aligning its polarity accordingly.

Todd, yes that is easier. I keep forgetting that not everyone uses manual switches like I do.