DH is “Double Hydrant”
Thanks Craig. That would make sense to me also. So it was a live hydrant with two hose ports. Makes sense.
And that is precisely why I like this site in general and this challenge specifically. I do very much appreciate the collaborative effort and the extra sets of eyes helping me make this the best model it can reasonably be. This I think will be the final iteration of the front piece. It isn’t perfect but it would take a serious major rework to get it perfect. But this will certainly be close enough for the 10 foot rule. I recessed the doors to give them the feeling of being doors instead of another set of windows. I think with will work good enough. They are also smaller than the windows to each side which should set them apart as doors.
I am sure I will need to make this in three pieces that I can then glue in as a panel to the styrene front.
Thanks Dan G for noticing the discrepancies. I think this looks like a winner.
What’s up with the blank section next to the center door for the stairwell? Did the stairwell ‘loop’ back to the front? From the screen shot, that section looks a lot narrower than the door. Maybe only the width of one panel of window vs the two you have it as.
Now it’s time for you to learn how to make figures! 
I think that these two guys out front really add to the scene!
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Looks great.
I might think about 3D printing that railing…just to get it perfect.
As to the blank spot that is my guess is that you walked in the door and the stairs were where the blank spot was and then they climbed and looped back over the side the door was on.
And now mister nit picky. Yes they are different widths in real life. But this building was not built to the real buildings dimensions. So some portions are just out of whack. Like I said in the beginning not looking to make an exact replica. I am out to make a rendition with lots of artistic license.
I won’t rule it out. The nice thing about 3D printing is even if I do want to make things old school and it doesn’t work out I can always fall back on printing it. So stay tuned, that maybe just what ends up happening.
If I was me, I’d increase the window sizes slightly and that would narrow the gap next to the center door and also call out the doors a tad better.
Say doors as 3’ wide, window 4’ wide.
I ain’t messin’ with it no more. For a building that will be in a cluster with a bunch of other buildings on either side of the tracks creating a corridor with all the building fronts facing in, there is little to no one who will be examining this thing that close.
Oh come on Devon. I know you haven’t hit print yet and just a few key strokes to change it. 
See what you started?
A few key strokes. . . You must be more efficient than me. . . 
So with all this talk of 3D printing, still a lot of this will be old school. So needed to start cutting my “boards” for my lap siding. I built a jig so I can somewhat quickly make repeatable progress. The back stop is screwed down. Then on either side I have a 5mm mark to align my metal straight edge. That is clamped down onto the sheet of styrene. A quick pass with a razor knife and you can snap off your strip. Rinse and repeat.
I also got home and supported and sliced the front wall. I didn’t get around to printing. Ill through the first one on in the morning and let it print while I am at work.
I have little to no interest at this point in designing and printing figures. What I do enjoy is making them from sculpy clay. I have thought of doing that, making masters, then casting in resin. I might give that a try. At the very least I may just make a couple clay figures as one offs. I, early on, thought I needed a lady of the evening on the balcony.
Talk about some street running! 
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Sculpey IS nice, but doesn’t hold up well outside. I ended up using Magic Sculpt - it’s a 2 part epoxy clay, and holds up well outside when painted. So I didn’t ever bother casting …
I have wondered about that stuff. Sculpy is fragile. One of the reasons I have thought of using it as a master and then casting in epoxy resin. But the epoxy clay is intriguing. Whats the working time? I tend to work slow on my figures.
Good question. I suspect that the working time is SEVERAL hours or more. (I usually let it season overnight) However this CAN be a disadvantage - as with Sculpey you can do some work on a figure, then pop it in the oven for 15 minutes or so, and then work on another layer. BUT, Magic Scuplt is SO strong!
I can see the pros and cons of each. Might have to give the Magic Sculpt a try and see if I have enough working time with it. If not then I can always go to making masters and casting them.
The one aspect of Sculpy that I do like is the infinite working time and once you are happy with that layer bake it. I wonder if you can “layer” the Magic Sculp by getting a layer right then letting it cure and then adding the next one on top. With epoxy resin you can usually add a second layer as long as the first layer isn’t full set and it will react with it making a chemical bond. But once it sets completely and is not tacky then you have to sand it or scuff it to get a mechanical bond. Wonder with the clay what the build up process requires. Time to do some googling.
Devon, check out http://www.makehumancommunity.org/ I think @manimal mentioned this site in another post a couple weeks ago and I decided to try it out. A couple youtube videos on their software and Blender and a couple hours later I had my first figure printing on the resin printer. Turned out quite well for my first attempt (now somebody has to paint it. I may send it to my SIL who is an artist and let her do her magic). I know you said you didn’t want or have time to learn something new, but it does involve 3D printing 
I can personally attest that you CAN “layer” the Magic Scuplt with zero problems. There’s a lot of hints on the web…
looks like I had better get proficient at making people.