Large Scale Central

Taking my addiction to a whole new level

General Discussion
#61

Ric Golding said:

Back in the early 80’s, when the kids were like 4 and 5, we went to a local big time thresher’s show. There was a fully functional speeder for around $2,000. I didn’t even have a trailer to pull it with. And for some reason those little kids wanted to eat. Probably best I never got that, but it was in good shape.

Interesting!

The best I’ve seen is the make and break ignition on the one at EBT. Radder and I both have great memories of that. Jan, and maybe even Marlyn, don’t have as good of feelings about it. Wonder why?

Always liked the look of the one on the EBT, would like to ride it someday :smiley: how does it ride, I picture those hit and miss engines making for a rough ride lol

#62

Hey ! You hid Shawn’s Jeep!

Rode the old MA & PA on this with my son and Hollywood .

#63

shhhhh, he doesn’t know lol I had a better offer for it, and she wanted to take it for a spin lol

Nice, I actually have never gotten to ride on one, mine may be the first once its done (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

#64

Today I tore into the reversing differential, It was frozen and could not be reversed. I opened the case to find a half gallon of water inside (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)

So I drained the water out, and sprayed the parts with WD40 and let them sit for the afternoon, then went back out there and it worked great. Still need to check a few things out, but should be good to go. Unfortunately the water sitting in there has done a number on it

#65

Fill that thing full of WD 40 or better yet PB blaster and let it sit and soak for a few days. The gears look fine to me from the pics.

#66

I hate to say it … But … I think Rooster might be right… notice I said " might"

#67

I guess a thought is the seals. That will certainly clean up with enough lubricant., but will the lubricant stay in there to do the job. How about something cheaper than WD40, like diesel fuel or kerosene, first. Ya just want to get a lube working on that rust everywhere, since there is no load on it. I’d hate to have a gallon of WD-40 just run out on the ground. Better put it in a plastic dish pan, whatever you use. From the picture, doesn’t look bad at all.

#68

I’m jealous, although something like this around here would likely become yet another unfinished project.

Aaron Loyet said:

**Ric Golding said:**The best I’ve seen is the make and break ignition on the one at EBT. Radder and I both have great memories of that. Jan, and maybe even Marlyn, don’t have as good of feelings about it. Wonder why?

Always liked the look of the one on the EBT, would like to ride it someday :smiley: how does it ride, I picture those hit and miss engines making for a rough ride lol

Actually EBT has a bunch of operational speeders. I think the one Ric is referring to is the “Flying devil” which is aptly named…

It is a Fairbanks built speeder with a Hit and Miss Fairmont engine. No suspension and no handholds. It is definitely a thrill ride.

Then there is the “Spider” which I much prefer for it’s sprung seats and at least a little something to hang on to, but it’s very short wheelbase makes it look a little unstable in a quick stop situation…

And if you want a classy comfortable ride, there is the Nash powered M3…

There are several more operational speeders at the EBT including “Silver Sightseer”…

Plus “Lil Phil”, “Pumpkin I”, “Pumkin II” and perhaps others I have forgotten about.

#69

Thanks for the pictures, Jon. Great memories! Great equipment! Great pictures!

#70

Sean McGillicuddy said:

I hate to say it … But … I think Rooster might be right… notice I said " might"

Sorry, just had to pick myself up off the floor hahaha

Funny you mention that Ric, cause that is just what I finished doing lol I sprayed everything with WD40 yesterday to get everything working, then this morning added about a gallon of Diesel to let it sit. The gears are in great shape, and minimal rust considering the water that was in there. It has already cleaned nicely, so should be in good shape. The seals are holding at the moment except one on the front, but it will be easy to replace. I put a pan under it and will check again in a couple days.

#71

Great pics John. Would love to have a hit and miss narrow guager someday to go with this one, though maybe a slightly smaller, and much lighter one lol

#72

Nifty ‘medicine’. I’ve wanted a speeder for some time, but the guys from NARCOA around here are the most unfriendly and unhelpful bunch of people I’ve ever talked to. :frowning:

#73

Thank Ric - I’m considering putting together an EBT Speeder page. I think Lance Meyers may have already done that, but I can’t find it. Went searching this morning for names/photos but didn’t find anything in one place. As far as names go, I’m not sure that “Flying Devil” wasn’t originally named “Pumkin I” or “Pumpkin II” and I saw more pictures of EBT speeders I’ve never seen in person. I don’t know if they left the RR or are still there hiding out-of-service.

#74

Not that extra motivation or inspiration is needed, but I posted this awhile ago on MLS - Speeders (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)

#75

Ric Golding said:

I guess a thought is the seals. That will certainly clean up with enough lubricant., but will the lubricant stay in there to do the job. How about something cheaper than WD40, like diesel fuel or kerosene, first. Ya just want to get a lube working on that rust everywhere, since there is no load on it. I’d hate to have a gallon of WD-40 just run out on the ground. Better put it in a plastic dish pan, whatever you use. From the picture, doesn’t look bad at all.

Well my thought was it held a lot of water and honestly diesel or kerosene won’t do the trick. He will need to cap the output shaft or slide the driveshaft yoke into it (if it has one)? If not you can buy tapered caps and plugs fairly cheap at like Napa or make one out of PVC pipe if you are lucky enough to get the right diameter. This is used by restoration shops and is good stuff! I personally don’t shop at WalMart but using as a reference.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-SPECIALIST-300042-Specialist-Liquid-Rust-Remover-1-Gal./40891468

#76

Well, with the cold settling in there has been little progress going on, but I did have a nice bonfire a few days ago to dispose of the plywood deck and walls one of the past owners installed. It was so rotten it was falling apart in my hands during removal, and even tossing it on the fire.

hopefully when I am back in the area again the weather will be nicer to work on it lol. I will then clean the frame and prep for painting. then on to more parts scrounging(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

Also having thoughts of modifying the frame to accommodate narrow guage axles that can be swapped out. it may be a challenge, but not impossible. Someday I would really like to do excursion runs on the D&S and C&TS, and maybe the WP&Y (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

#77

If you do make it convertible, You can run it anywhere you choose to go, SG or NG doesn’t matter to you. Best of both worlds. I would think that it would be well worth the effort you would have to put into it.

#78

Dave Taylor said:

If you do make it convertible, You can run it anywhere you choose to go, SG or NG doesn’t matter to you. Best of both worlds. I would think that it would be well worth the effort you would have to put into it.

Thats what im thinking. it would be real easy to convert to just narrow guage, but will be a little more complicated to be convertible due to how the driveline is set up. but if I can get a second reversing differential, then I could just have a complete second set of axles for it, then it wouldnt be impossible. Also another set of brake hangers so they could be moved in, and another set of linkage running to the brake lever. Will definitely be looking closer into this for sure.

#79

First, you need some conduit, gotta have some conduit. Then you run it over to there, just so, and branch it off with a whatchamacallit, then run it over here to the gizmo… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

#80

Aaron, Would it be easier if you could move the brakes to a drive shaft unit type. That would keep you from having to do any “re-set” on the brakes in a change over of gage. Or a disc caliper on the front axel.

My $.02