Large Scale Central

Switchcrafters ties

Track and Trestles
#21

Very interesting, Bob. TOC has a spike tool and it is neat and works great. If you are going to do alot youmight want to consider it even at $ 65.

I have never thought that hand laying track was a Zen thing, just alot of work!! I have some switchs (turnouts) that I have aquired over time and if I need them I’ll go this route as the ties are solid and I think will last quite well in our weather (PNW).

Bob you do have alot to do before this spring! Now I know why you are trying to get up a work party.

Paul

#22

I asked Bruce at Switchcrafters about drilling.

His reply: " I do not pre-drill for spikes. The spikes are tapped right into the composite ties with “The Spiker” tool, or in tight places, you can just push them in with pliers. The only place where I do any drilling is on the point end of a switch, the part where there is just no room to put spikes on the inside. I will drill holes in the foot of the outside rail (not in the tie). I use a 0.050" drill to drill the rail because the spikes are 0.032" thick.

The trick to have success with The Spiker tool is make sure that when you lay out your switch, that you clamp the rail down to the ties so that the ties and the rail do not move while tapping in the spikes. Otherwise, you will probably bend a lot of spikes. I will send you some extra ties to practice on. I will attach the instructions on how to use the spiker so you can see the jig that I have used for small straight sections."

#23

Probably shouldn’t suggest this as I have no experience with such (as of yet) but knowing composite material and the base material’s that it’s made from. Instead of drilling what about “Hot Spikes” sunk into the ties. Only makes sense too me as it cools it will only harden and act as a glue in a sense.
Just a thought from a janitor on the CVRR and perhaps I should keep some ideas to myself or try them before suggesting.
:wink:

editing as I forgot too add …the switch looks great Bob!

#24

I tried just pushing the spikes in with pliers and couldnt get them in. Interesting idea about hot spikes. Hmm…

Im still not convinced that the spiker is worth the money for the switches I want to do. If its that much faster, it may be.

Edit: I’d really like to see one of the spikers, to see what all the hub-bub is about. Anyone have one that could take some closeup pics of the mechanism for me? Or better yet, anyone have one I can borrow?

#25

Lookout guyes!!
He’s getting ready for " Build a RR "
Looks great Bob.
So are you going to redo all those switches?
Sean

#26

Bob this tool has been around for years with great reviews. It’s like the riviter that Bruce just bought, another tool that has been around for years. Remember you can belly bend track or you can get the Train-Li and accurately bend rail two at a time.
It’s the idea that you can do the job with what you have, or spend the money and save the time for other things. Looks like the cost of one switch.
The spikers main benefit is that it holds the spikes at the correct angle to grab the base of the rail as you hammer, or push, the two nail sets to drive the spikes. A whole lot easier than holding the spike with needle nose and driving them.

#27

I bought one a year or so ago and have found it great.
I was driving spikes into hardwood with out any problem, but then I decided to buy their (switchcrafters) ties also as eventualy the hardwood will rot. I was doing a 3’ section of track across a bridge. I will take a photo and post later .
dave

#28

Hmm. Anyone have one that I can borrow for a couple weeks to try out?

#29

I can lend you mine but the postage there and back would go a long way toward purchasing one. here are some pics I just took. picture of tool from above

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking1Medium.jpg)

the working end with a spike in place

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking2Medium.jpg)

small magnets set in the bottom hold the spikes in place

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking3Medium.jpg)

you hold the tool like this and then hit the appropriate slider with a hammer

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking4Medium.jpg)

the bridge with both hardwood and composite ties

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking5Medium.jpg)

hardwood ties spiked

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking7Medium.jpg)

composite ties

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking8Medium.jpg)

bridge ready to go in

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking12Medium.jpg)

any more info or pics I can add? Dave PS track is actually 4’ lengths

#30

Dave, you can also use that tool to spike both sides of the rail at the same time right. Or am I mistaken?

#31

There are two things i see with this tool that i do not like. first i do not think that it will do both sides at one time, but i do not like the idea of inserting spikes at an angle, any angle. years ago when i could see better i was hand spiking H0n3 track, and was instructed by a fellow modeler who was also a bridge inspector in real life that you do not drive spikes at an angle. having now done both full size 1:1 spiking as well as now doing my large scale modeling i can see the beinfits of driving straight. when you drive a spike at an angle it tends to impart a twist in the rail, and while definatly more noticable in Hon3 , it will become appaerent in any scale when the spike loosens up because the rail is apt to go out of gauge. and since this will cause further maintanace this is something to try and avoid.

my 2ct’s

#32

This tool will only do one side of the rail at a time, however you can use it to put 2 spikes into the tie. If you look at picture 7 you can see I have done so on the beginning of the track.
Switchcrafters double spike all their ties, maybe the two on an angle cancel any “twist”.
When this tool drives the spike on an angle it forces the shank of the spike down into the tie and therefore the ‘tang’ of the spike is crushed against the foot of the rail.
It takes a few times to get the angle right and if you need to remove a spike they are quite tightly driven…anyway I am not selling this product just a satisfied customer.
Dave

#33

I uploaded a photo that is incorrect. photo 4 shows the tool held backwards. here is the correct way

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking_001Medium.jpg)

I have a small piece of Jarrah, on of the hardest woods around and I will demonstrate how it works it needs to be held just off vertical so the driving pins miss the top of the rail

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking_002Medium.jpg)

Then a swift hit with a small hammer

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking_003Medium.jpg)

and viola

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking_004Medium.jpg)

then do the same on the other side

(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/tiespike/spiking/spiking_005Medium.jpg)

the hardest part is putting the spikes into the tool, that’s what I use my pointy nosed pliers for now regards Dave

#34

So one whack with the hammer, not a few small hits? I have one to test, and so far my average has been miserable. 16 spikes, 2 in nicely, 14 bent.

#35

that’s it, Bob, a single fast blow and they should go straight in unless the drive pin hits the rail head.
It takes a little practice.
Dave

#36

Reading these postings has helped me through my first hand laying of track. I tried the “Zen” thing, even recited a low “zen” while I was driving the spikes in my dual gauge track. Still didn’t enjoy it. However, by using a little CA on the spikes I was able to get them to hold in the hollow ties. After ballasting and all ties were spiked, I pulled the brads I used to be long enpough to get to the plywood and replaced them with spikes set in epoxy. Since the ties are held down with brads under the rail, the spike are doing very well holding the rail to the ties. All this is just for a 3 foot section of dual gauge track on the “Timesaver”. You can see the results, good or bad, at the ECLSTS in York, PA. in 9 days. Thanks for the conversation guys, even unrelated topics provide knowledge.

#37

Hey Bob,

Are you holding your mouth just right when you hit the spike? Maybe try holding it a different way, your mouth that is. Can we see the results? HeHeHe.

I’ve never used the “Spiker” so I can’t give you any advise. But I can offer my support, hang in there!!

Chuck

#38

I’ve tried it both with my tongue sticking out, and without. Maybe I need to furrow my brow.

There’s a definite art to this. Im getting better, but still not great.

#39

Ok, I got it working. A combination of angle and hammer hit speed/strength. Works great, I’m sold!

#40

You were holding your tongue wrong weren’t you.