Sanding’s done on the terrain.
The pond needs to be removable for shipping, so I did a temporary version with clear ripple acrylic and a piece of blue cardstock beneath.
I like the transparent 1/8" thickness, so I might just stick with this (rather than paint the surface). Maybe some light blue spray on the edges of the cardstock below, and darker blue in the center, to give it some gradient.
Looks great as is…I don’t think I would bother changing it (unless you feel like you just don’t have enough hours into this yet! 
)
Thanks much, Bruce, will comply, haaha!
Nice work Cliff.
They will be very impressed (as am I).
Gotta say that’s some pretty serious wave action ya got going in that pond. Maybe you need to add some whitecaps?? 
Cheers
Neil
unless there is a major earthquake and a tornado or hurricane I agree with Neil, the waves are a bit large for 320:1 scale, should be almost glass
Most folks could not ever care about scale…they just want it to look cool…which it does.
Neil, Pete, thanks for chiming in.
Couple reactions. Like, “Wow, I better be careful when I size the sagebrush, this is a tough crowd!!”
But no, you’re absolutely right. Which is why I’m now planning on giving the customer 3 surfaces: the one you’ve seen, wavy, and dead flat. Those are the only 3 physical textures I’ve found in clear acrylic. And I’ll let them pick.
To Bruce’s point, I’m guessing that it will be the optical qualities that will matter in that choice. E.g., the overall visual effect for the observer, rather than, say, inference on weather conditions.
Thanks guys!
Cliff
i like the idea of giving the end user the choice but honestly I would not have noticed that the waves on the pond were to large. When the whole thing is done the eye won’t be focusing on the waves on the pond. I don’t really like dead flat either. Because very seldom is water dead flat. Unless I am trying to win a sailboat race then it is inevitable that it will be dead flat.
Thanks Devon, I agree. Another problem with dead flat is that it picks up and shows the dust so well. But, we’ll see.
Will prob still cut the other versions though JFTHOI. I have the scrap material, and the pattern is the same, so…
Starting on the track, did the prints today. Here’s the pile.
Gotta figure out the sequence on what gets applied. Like…
Something like that…
[edit] This is my thread’s big railroad connection, hope it counts!
For the cover over the model, I’ve settled on 3/16" polycarbonate and a type of fitting that is small and smooth and doesn’t require hole drilling.
But the fittings are heavily chrome-plated, and they need to be black. A local powder coater says he’ll do the job, but I have to remove the chrome.
I’ve tried (per Youtube & other advice) soaking in: lye, Easy-Off, and muriatic acid. None worked in the slightest. Even did the reverse-polarity 6v thing in a 50/50 mix of water and muriatic, nope.
I also did pure muriatic and just left it for an hour. The original fitting is on the left, the test fitting is sort of on the right…
Guess I left it in too long.
Anyway, the plating is tougher than the steel beneath it.
There are tons of Youtube vids on (trying to) paint over chrome, but that’s not likely to hold up in a touchy environment.
Any thoughts on what I should do?
Default solution is to take a month (well, maybe not that long) off work and carefully belt sand the chrome off all the fittings and then have them powder coated.
Do you have access to a small sand blaster? I have no idea if that would work either. I have never tried to remove chrome from metal.
Don’t custom car shops remove the chrome from old vehicle bits and pieces in their restorations and modifications?
I’m sure they do, Hollywood. And good to see you. I should get a quote.
No Devon, but I’ve seen that approach often cited.
And, you got me thinking.
https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
Would 3D printed versions be strong enough for this application?
Bob, good point. For panel clips, no, I don’t think so. I’ve got to assume some one’s gonna fall or bang on the cover at some point. Here’s the design.
Unless they were printed in metal, but that would push the cost out. However, I could design my own, in that case…
OK, checking the price on Shapeways now, just for grins… yeah, $65 each.
Thanks though Bob, you made me look. 
I painted over the Chrome for ya buddy!
Problem solved!!
Probably won’t work but throw this out. Plastic modelers use bleach and/or Purple Power to remove the chrome plating on plastic parts. I’m guessing it’s not the same stuff a the chrome plating you have. But I’m also pretty sure you’ve got bleach at home to at least try…
Rooster, I love it! Thanks so much!!
I have to admit that you were the last person I’d expect to use pink, but that’s super ok!! Really!!!
