Indeed!
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We wanna see the original 1:1 version in full color ! Then we can judge lest not we be judged on our own decisions that an individual decides to choose his colors judicially to his tastes.
5 color now as the chamfered edges need to be picked out with 2 accent colors!
Book of Rooster chapter 69 verse 13.375 and 9/10’s
Well Rooster, here it is, the best color shot I have of the original 1:1!
Enjoy! I’m not doing the orange though.
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I’m guessing you have seen this …History of Sutro 1940 – 1945 – Around Carson
Good read and the reply at the bottom has a link to an interior shot of the saloon.
Will you be adding the cables to keep it from blowing over in the fierce winds?
Yep, I do, thanks; it’s such a great clear shot.
A couple months ago I was asked by one of the “friends” of the Sutro if I was going to include the cables, and so I had to say “of course!” So, you bet!
Found this cool article about the tunnel. Note that several kegs of lager beer were sent for and the American flag was raised!! AMEN!!
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Nice find, Rooster!
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There is an awful lot of information in that article. Thought if you didn’t know it already you will now and could be used in the description of Comstock Sutro VOL 1 The tunnel with the silver lining!
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The larger buildings have been giving me trouble all week. I’d hoped to print them flat against the build plate, because that resulted in tiny little horizontal ridges that looked like clapboard. But no matter what setting I tweaked, all came out with a gooey bottom 3/8" that wouldn’t cure.
For the record, here’s the boneyard. Yeah, it’s embarrassing, but it only cost about $12 in resin and $5 in pride.
I went back to standard practice (Dan and Devon and others know what I’m talking about…). I tilted the parts (I like 10 degrees, seems to fix issues), raised them up from the build plate ~1/4", and added a crapload of supports.
The problem with this approach is that you get scalloping between the supports. So before this stage, I lowered the bottom surfaces of these buildings by .03", to have extra to sand out the scallops.
Here’s the problem children, on their stilts.
No goo, and the details are really crisp. Those door/window pads protrude only .010, but are nice and clean. And since these are the stars of the model, I’m relieved they’re finally behaving. Here’s the original mill building, before and after.
Next steps involve clipping, sanding, fitting… Very similar to plastic model work.
Cliff
Thanks David, and yes, and I haven’t forgotten your other ideas, haha!
It’s a fun rabbit hole… and, unfortunately, I only have time at the moment to dive down a little branch tunnel of it, if that makes sense. But, the year is young!
Don’t pitch the bone yard send it to me and I might use it
Very nice looking prints and great detail.
A person could make a 1:29 back yard ride on layout and use those buildings as scenery.
Those are looking great! You have the Mono X, right? Is it the 6k one?
Thanks Bob! No, I just have the original Mono X. Still working nicely. But I can’t believe it’s only $300 now!! This seems to be an industry where the price drops about 25% each year!
Only 2.5 years ago I bought the Mono X for what their new 8k unit is selling for.
It has a shorter build volume, but I’ve never had a part that came close to maxing out the Mono X, so I’d accept that.
The Mono 6k AND the wash-and-cure bundle is currently on sale on Amazon too…
Ah, rub it in… 
You’ve sure gotten the hang of 3D modeling, and done a heck of a job with the FDM. And I think you’ll always use that tool for larger / structural elements, things that need to be robust. But… You also seem to be a fan of detail parts, where cosmetics and sharpness are more the thing. So, I’d very much encourage you to jump in the resin pool! Especially with these prices, sheesh…
Lots of things to consider, many diff’s with FDM, but it’s a really neat tool to have on one’s bench.
Yea, won’t be until the summer at least, too many other moving parts requiring money right now. But I do want to give it a try.
I am blessed that I have a nut job for a friend that is upgrading at a pace that keeps pace with technology. Part of my payment for design efforts is getting his old obsolete printers. The Epax x10 I got from him has been upgraded to the 8k version. Larger screen and 8k resolution. I am dumbfounded at how fast a mono printer prints compared to my old color printer and the 8K res is phenomenal. I have been able to print down to half a mm with great results.
1/2 mm resolution or 1/2 mm object? I can print 0.15 mm with my FDM printer and down to 0.05 mm with the resin printer.
1/2 mm detail. I honestly don’t know what the resolution is. That was all tweaked and set up for me. While 1/2mm objects are very weak and break easy it will do it. But if what ever detail I am printing say a NBW I can get a pretty clean detail that is 1/2 a mm.