Yes Polyswitches can trip slowly.
However they will also hold 100% of rated load indefinitely. That means they are already running warm and are ideal for a regular load.
The secret with them is to match their rating as closely as possible to the actual load. Then, because they are already running warm they will trip very quickly indeed if a short occurs.
I use them a lot. They are the prime protection on my basic ESC’s and all my Installation kits use them.
I agree with Greg. At least use them on the track pick ups. …and of course any battery power.
Gentlemen, thank you again. I will be calling Jim at Phoenix on Monday, I believe he should have received my toasted card today. I will ask his advice and request information (if available) on operating amperage.
Regards,
Bob C.
I would install a poly fuse so I would not have to take it apart to replace a blown fuse.
Dan, in the rest of the thread, it was suggested to make the fuse accessible if one was used… therefore you would not have to take anything apart.
Gotta read the whole thread…
Greg
Still hunting that elusive fuse holder for the ATO type fuses. Frustrating…
Bob C.
Bob Cope said:
Still hunting that elusive fuse holder for the ATO type fuses. Frustrating.......Bob C.
Napa Auto parts
Thanks David, I will give them a try. I have exhausted all my usual commercial / industrial supply sources.
Bob C.
Ask for a catalog while your there …you won’t regret it…
Off the shelf at any auto parts store.
Greg
Well, received my new sound card today. Stopped by NAPA yesterday on the way home from work, and they didn’t have what I was looking for. I will do a rough CAD model tomorrow and post a picture of what I would like. If I can’t find one, I think I can cobble one up our of an old automotive fuse block, hacked and slashed to fit.
Progress reports as time allows.
Bob C.
I was suggesting this:
(http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/218109.jpg)
napa part number BK 7825332 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7825332_0006394028 Greg
When I was putting the batteries in my Porter I couldn’t fit a commercial mini ATO fuse holder. I made one with blade connectors and heat shrink tubing. It’s a bit snug, but works great.
Jon,
My intent was to use a ‘flange mount’ style, where the bulk of the fuse holder is inside the tender with just the fuse and maybe a small portion of the holder exposed. I am trying to get to where I do not have to open up the tender to change a fuse. I suppose a mounting inside the coal load is an option. I am headed toward battery and R/C (undecided which one), and would like to conceal all of it inside the K27 tender. It most likely will require some judicious relocation/remounting of the original B’mann board and other stuff. I don’t want to get too far down the road until I have all the components on hand. It appears that the front runner so far is Aristo Revo, but not cast is stone yet. Great suggestion, one I had considered. Also considered casting two in some resin and making my own.
Bob C.
Thanks Greg, saw that while in NAPA. I had been trying to go out the bottom floor, but it looks like an under the coal load is more likely. That will open other possibilities.
Bob C.
Something like this Bob? From Radio Shack.
http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/fuseholder.bmp
Randy,
I was actually looking to use the ATC type fuses, the blade type. They last better knocking around in my tool box than the glass tube ones. Although the glass tube type can be gotten in much smaller ampere ratings.
Still mulling things over in my mind, what little is left of it :).
Bob c.