David Maynard said:
I have Dremel with a flex shaft. I use the fiber wheels in it. Them Dremel wafers tend to fragment on me too easily. And that brings me to the safety goggles I wear.
Have you tried the metal cut-off disks? I used to break tons of the other disks until I switched to the metal cut off disks, and haven’t broken one yet. I think these are the ones that I have.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=545
My favorite large tool is my 14 inch delta band saw. I use it a lot…making shingle, cutting curved roof beams for cars, even cutting brass and aluminum. I also have a 10 inch table saw for strip wood also for milling clapboards into plywood for buildings and special trim pieces. I have a 7x20 lathe which has a good pilemof wood and metal chips under it. A full size drill press and a mini CNC mill round out the “big” stuff. It is all small potatoes compared to the WW&F museum shop though.
For smaller tools, I have a micro mark table saw and a preac super mini table!saw form really fine strip work. The micro mark saw is new to me…I am not really sure what I think of it yet…good but not great easier to deal with mid size strips like trestle posts not so good at the real little stuff like fence pickets or window mullions. I have an old mini drill press which is great for dealing with those less than 1/8 inch drills and the really little ones. I also recently got a pin nailer which is a cool thing for buildings and trestles
I have been building up my shop for years andyears for boat building, home building, model boats and railways. Metal work and wood work. I had good industrial arts classes in high school but never worked in the trades…just for fun or to save money.
Eric Schade said: The micro mark saw is new to me…I am not really sure what I think of it yet…good but not great easier to deal with mid size strips like trestle posts not so good at the real little stuff like fence pickets or window mullions.
I also have the Mirco-Mark saw (not sure which model I have or you have) but the big issue I have is the fence set up. The saw that I have only has a 1/2 length fence, so it’s very hard to maintain accurate cuts. I’ve thought about trying to build a better table for it, and fence setup but haven’t ever had the chance.
Not to brag, but my business has the need of tools, tools makes me money, so I buy tools and lots of them.
Even some for playing RR with. when cutting strip wood, I use a 10" table saw, with a 8" thin kerf blade with a
zero clearance blade incert. I gave a table saw clinic for our club a couple months back. Many were amazed at what I cut
on a table saw safely and how easy it is.
they were blown away when I showed them how I used to cut strip wood for my HO modeling.
I cut 1/32" x 3/32" strips.
The biggest mistake people make is the wrong push sticks, I will draw up some push sticks and post shortly.
Dennis
David Maynard said:
I have a Proxxon mini table saw. I would like to have a larger table saw to make my big wood into smaller wood that the Proxxon could handle better, but I make due, since I do not have the space for a larger table saw.
I have a drill press, and I have a grinding stone that I chuck into it for grinding switch points and such. I also have a home made die to put into it for pressing rivet effects into sheet metal.
What size blades does the proxxon use? I am thinking my rock saw would work well as a mini table saw. It will take the 5" range blades.
As for the drill press as a rivet indenter I like that idea. What do you use for the die. Seems like a rounded punch or even a reworked old drill bit may work. That is a good idea.
Dennis Rayon said:
Not to brag, but my business has the need of tools, tools makes me money, so I buy tools and lots of them.
Even some for playing RR with. when cutting strip wood, I use a 10" table saw, with a 8" thin kerf blade with a
zero clearance blade incert. I gave a table saw clinic for our club a couple months back. Many were amazed at what I cut
on a table saw safely and how easy it is.
they were blown away when I showed them how I used to cut strip wood for my HO modeling.
I cut 1/32" x 3/32" strips.
The biggest mistake people make is the wrong push sticks, I will draw up some push sticks and post shortly.
Dennis
You and others mention what I believe to be the best safety feature when doing small work on a 10" saw (or any saw); that’s the zero clearance plate. I also like using feather boards on the infeed side of my saw both on the horizontal surface as well as on my fence. When I have made small strip wood on it I like to use big pieces of wood and keep my hands away from the blade.
So no one is using the Dremel router table?
Also with the ShopSmith Mark V as a lathe I am wondering if it would be possible to turn soft metals such as brass? IF so what type of a cutter could be used? I really would love to have both a mini metal lathe and a mini milling machine but those are just something I can not justify.
I don’t call a Shopsmith a small tool, but I use it as a table saw with a zero clearance insert to cut strip wood. I use a think kerf blade, and don’t mind that I throw away as much saw dust as I keep as lumber. I also use it as a circular sander and a horizontal drill. Haven’t used it as a lathe as I don’t know much about using a lathe. I’m not sure it’s good for turning any but the softest metal.
Other power tools are dremel drills, and a dremel drillpress, and dremel table saw.
Devon and Dick,
I would not recommend using a Shopsmith for turning metal for a couple of reasons. First of the Shopsmith does not have a proper tooling post to properly mount and control a metal turning bit. Second, metal turning is done at a much slower speed than wood and I am not sure the Shopsmith can be turned down in speed sufficiently and maintain enough horsepower to accomplish this. Another thing to consider is the method for mounting wood to a lathe is totally incompatible with mounting metals. Attempting to secure metal in a wood type mount could be lethal to the operator is the metal were to slip it’s mount while turning. The Shopsmith is a great tool for wood working. Not so much for metal working. With the proper blades, the table saw and band saw functions might be acceptable for cutting softer metals (aluminum and soft brass alloys) but I wouldn’t attempt any others.
Bob,
That’s pretty much my summation on cutting metal with a Shopsmith or any other wood lathe. I will have to pass on metal turning until I can get the real deal.
And yeah some of these tools are beyond the “small tool” range. But great suggestions none the less.
not the best photo but for metal cutting on a lathe, you can see the part is held securely in a chuck (and often supported at the other end as well). the cutting tool is held securely on an X/Y table and manipulated by turning cranks.
When using a wood turning lathe the cutting tools are hand held with a rigid (adjustable) support. Wood has a tendency to grab the tool…even more so when working metal. Turning metal, the forces can easily be high enough to break tool steel cutters and would break your wrist or send the work flying in dangerous directions if you were holding the end of a chisel.
wood and plastic can be worked in a metal lathe easily.
that being said some metal work can be done on a wood lathe if the work can be held securely and the metal is easily worked and care is taken. often a file is used rather than a chisel. the work possible is more limited and the progress slower and less precise.
My most useful tool is my disk/belt sander. Had a Delta (6" disk) that died recently and replaced it with the 8" disk Porter Cable for an additional $70. Well worth the difference.
I also use my Central Machinery (Harbour Freight) drill press a lot, but the bearings are near shot and the motor torque is way down (open windings?).
I do have a ShopMaster 3-in-1 with Bridge Mill/Drill/Lathe. This has manual, 3 axis power feed, and CNC (Mach 3 software) and a DRO, but I find the unit unreliable (I think the “Forward” power switch for the mill is going to go out next as it sometimes doesn’t engage the motor but “Reverse” works fine) so haven’t invested beacoup bucks in tooling.
You also have to be very careful so as not to let the machine eat itself up when using the power feeds and CNC and I’ve added my own table limit switches after the first time it snapped a spline shaft for the lathe through “over-travel.” (Of course, one would not intentionally let it “over-travel” but when the scale is marked for 5.5" in either direction and it is so far off that it the shaft snaps at 4.5", you have to question Chinese quality.) I had to obtain another from a competitor (ordered three from Smithy and one fit the diameter…, again Chinese quality) and sized it on the mill portion. Luckily, sometime you can use one portion of the machine to make something to fix the other portion. This had been sitting unused rusting in a barn in KY and I restored it.
(http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/Parts/TriPower_024.jpg)
I have these made on a Fadal/Haas, but here you can see where I programmed my machine to the outline of one.
I would love to have a nice stationary saw of some type, but space is limited.
Devon Sinsley said:
David Maynard said:
I have a Proxxon mini table saw. I would like to have a larger table saw to make my big wood into smaller wood that the Proxxon could handle better, but I make due, since I do not have the space for a larger table saw.
I have a drill press, and I have a grinding stone that I chuck into it for grinding switch points and such. I also have a home made die to put into it for pressing rivet effects into sheet metal.
What size blades does the proxxon use? I am thinking my rock saw would work well as a mini table saw. It will take the 5" range blades.
As for the drill press as a rivet indenter I like that idea. What do you use for the die. Seems like a rounded punch or even a reworked old drill bit may work. That is a good idea.
The blades on the Proxxon and larger Microlux saws (same saw actually) are 3 and 11/32nds of an inch in diameter. I have cut strip-wood as small as 1/32nd x 1/32nd on the saw. But a zero clearance plate is a necessity.
For my rivet embosser, I ground a rounded punch form into the end of a large nail. For the die part, I use a medium nail set. In the end of the nail set is nice half round concave shape. It makes rather nice looking rivets in soft metal and card-stock.
I am not following the rivet embosser. I am assuming there is a top and bottom portion. Your chucking the rounded nail into the drill press chuck and then lying the sheet materiel on the die and when depressed the nail pushes the sheet material into the concave die right? If so I don’t understand how your positioning the nail set (or even what a nail set is exactly).
Devon Sinsley said:
I am not following the rivet embosser. I am assuming there is a top and bottom portion. Your chucking the rounded nail into the drill press chuck and then lying the sheet materiel on the die and when depressed the nail pushes the sheet material into the concave die right? If so I don’t understand how your positioning the nail set (or even what a nail set is exactly).
Yes, the punch (nail) is chucked into the chuck. The die (nail set) is clamped into the clamp bolted to the table. Then the material is laid on the nail-set, and the die pressed down embossing the material.
A nail set is a tool used with a hammer to “set” the head of the nail flush the the material its being driven into. The end that goes against the nail head has a concave face, so it grabs the nail head better, and that concave shape is what I use as my die.
The die, rounded nail
The punch and die
Sample rivets. left one with the die (nail set), right one with just the punch, no die
David Maynard said:
A nail set is a tool used with a hammer to “set” the head of the nail flush the the material its being driven into. The end that goes against the nail head has a concave face, so it grabs the nail head better, and that concave shape is what I use as my die.
Oh, I forgot there was a time before compressed air was invented and people hammered finish nails. This makes sense, so where does one find a nail set… do museums generally part with them???(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Thanks for the pics makes sense now
Nail sets are still very common items. Any hardware store will carry them usually where the hammers are sold.
I use them when making turnouts, in places where the “spiker” won’t fit, like between the rail and guard rail, and near the frog, where the rails come together.
Devon - an interesting post.
I bought in to the miniature tool market a few years ago and I really enjoy them. I know you asked about power tools, but I’m going to start with some hand tools that I find very useful.
First off is this nibbler. Great for going through metal, but will also work with plastic.
If you’re going to do any sort of hand laying track, the “Spiker” is one of the best tools available. Puts in two spikes at a slight angle with just two whacks of a small hammer.
Micro-mark is often viewed as an expensive source, but their line of mini power tools is awesome. I have the belt sander, mini-drill, and right angle disk sander. Not pictured is their miniature jig saw, which I don’t use all that much.
I recently purchased a Proxxon Pen sander - a really nifty tool; but, don’t get their sandpaper - it’s exorbitantly expensive. I bought some 3M adhesive sandpaper for a fraction of the cost and just cut the shape myself.
Lastly, a thin beam square that I use all the time. Not power, but effective.
I have a large drill press which is useful, but when it comes to drilling small holes, this setup can’t be beat. It’s from Proxxon and is very sturdy. The little vise is a separate purchase, but really helps making accurately spaced holes.
Now that’s strange. On my computer and in the freight shed it is oriented properly, but not so much here. I don’t see anyplace to change orientation.
I don’t have enough room for a full size table saw. Not only that, but I really like using the Micro-lux version.
If I need to cut big boards I just order them already cut. I don’t like making sawdust that much.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)
So, that’s a quick list of some of my favorites.
The most used power tool in my train workshop is my drill press. It is mounted on a government surplus credenza with the modular book shelves removed from the center so I can sit and work in comfort. It has a steel frame, sturdy top and hardwood drawers on roller glides. The drawers are handy for holding drill bits and other accessories. I added a 3/4 inch MDF work surface, and a goose-necked work light.
It sits right behind my work table so I can swivel my chair to use either without moving.
There is an article on the OVGRS club web site about bench tools that I have used during my 24 years in the hobby.
