Yeah, Craig’s right. Total PITA, at least with my skills and tools then (I saber-sawed them). Now, I’d make a rectangular jig and use a zip-bit in a Dremel like a router, that’d be easy.
At the time it seemed worth it, because I thought this would be my permanent model, and wanted lit windows. But then I got a laser cutter and went with acylic. The foam model sort of served as a mockup-placeholder until then.
Once you start interlocking the parts with glue, the 1" is pretty stout. Unless you make something enormous… but then you’d back the walls with stiffeners.
Speaking of wind, you might want to make a removable section of roof or rear wall to insert bricks / etc.
Sounds like 1" seems to be the easiest to cut as well with a hot knife. And its a lot cheaper than the 2" stuff.
Damn, I’m in spending money mode on the railroad again. 
Bill, Craig,
Yes, they are a PITA to cut out and honestly whats the point unless one strives for accuracy?
If you want windows you can always go the ghetto method. Mine are caulked in place with a press fit.
3mm pvc covered with furnace duct tape and 1/16-1/32 red pin stripe. The in 15yrs you can call renewal by Anderson and replace those old windows easily. Or you could add more or change the amount of stiles, mullions and rails if you wish.
However what do I know I’m just a peckerhead but Devon used my idea (and gave me credit for it) so it must be a good one.
Yea, 1inch with 3/4 square wood stiffeners, because on longer runs the foam has a tendency to bow a little. As for weight I just use a 2x2 or 2x4, depending on building size, around the bottom inside for stiffener and weight. It must work I still have all my buildings non of them went to Oz.
