the difference between the 830, and the 906 is basically, the knuckle spring is not visible…same with the 820/1906…then there are the “Rust” coloured ones…
I like the “slack action” of the 830, and now you can get the 906 (the difference is the updated knuckle design, looks better)
That’s the only coupler and draft gear with the “slack action” which is the most fun for me, as it looks like a real train taking out the slack, and it’s more of a challenge to skill in driving the train.
That’s the “standard” for body mount.
When there is not enough room for that coupler, like on strange cars, or perhaps cabeese, where a see-through platform would show the draft gear, than any other of the center-set couplers that fit.
Greg
Thanks
Another big plus with body mounts is being able to have the uncoupling levers properly and CONSISTENTLY at the right height.
This subject is really like the evolution of layouts where people glue or screw track down rigidly, then have issues, then they remove all the screws from the rails to let them slide, and then that fails and finally they let their track float like the prototype.
With Kadees, the first and easy thing to do is put truck mounts on. Then people get issues since the offset couplers that are normally needed create up and down stress on the coupler tang (and the wheels and everything), and then the uncoupling arms are pulled too low and they catch on switches. So the next solution is either bend them way up or cut them off. Now the remote uncoupling does not work, and you still have the couplers trying to override each other. So starting down a not so good path ends up in worse operation one way or the other.
If you think about it, having the stresses of the train pulling on and twisting the trucks is nuts. Besides the benefits of better running since the trucks are not being twisted around corners, is that you no longer have your coupler at the end of a long lever that can move up and down.
Body mounts give a precise vertical alignment that will not change according to whether the train is moving / stopped / heavy / light / running in reverse.
To solve the truck-mounted issue, other manufacturers did a few things, like Aristo has a small “shelf” to prevent coupler override… although you pay in return since you cannot simply lift cars up to remove them. Similarly, the hook and loop has a great capacity to keep coupled if cars go up and down.
Many benefits to body mounts that are not all obvious at first.
Greg
Thanks Greg, I think that last post made the most compelling argument to me to start converting everything to KaDees body mounts now, Starting with the Aristo cars since they work with nothing else I have. Now to get some couplers, a saw and some shim stock, and make a cradle to hold the cars while I operate. And some metal wheels too.
Again, be sure to check my site under Ted’s vignettes for Kadee install tips, and if all looks murky, post here, you have lots of people ready to help.
When I started with truck mounts, I could barely back a 7 car train. Some light cars, some bad gauge, etc. Now I can back a 45 car train with no derailments. I am sold.
Greg
Pete Lassen said:
Thanks Greg, I think that last post made the most compelling argument to me to start converting everything to KaDees body mounts now, Starting with the Aristo cars since they work with nothing else I have. Now to get some couplers, a saw and some shim stock, and make a cradle to hold the cars while I operate. And some metal wheels too.
I found that these make great shims
There easy to get and seam to be just the right thickness! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)
For shims, I use TAP Plastics ABS sheets that are offered in different thickness. They don’t cost much, and TAP Plastics can cut them to a width down to 1 inch in lengths of say 3 or 4 feet. From the long lengths, you can cut off multiples of shims or spacers. See the TAP Plastics Web site, "Enter Specifications" calculator.
-Ted
Edited: Posted in error