They don’t even tell you what sort of collets it uses? You may be very limited.
Todd, I have no idea why you insist on following me around and only posting negative stuff that is actually not well thought out.
Your other comment is why would I pay money for software when I can use a limited version free?
If you spent time reading you would know the taper of the headstock, it’s on the Sherline site, if this is what you are asking.
On my site, I did list up the collets supplied, 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" and also a holder for 3/8" mills. That right on the page I linked.
All the information is easy to find on the Sherline site.
Are you really trying to help and contribute, or just looking for things that I have “done wrong”?
Greg
Gregor, I had a sterling cnc mill and passed it on…only because I felt I needed the ability to do bigger stuff…what I got since is pretty good but not way better. The sterling is a great machine and showed me good service. I scratch built a small live steamer on it…wheels frame and more wrestling well made. I did go through some end Mills though! I would buy several at a time, even double enders and still sometimes needed more. 1mm is small. Take special care! Get a bunch of them and practice before cutting into your golden part! You can have a lot of fun with it!
Yep, I’m going into this assuming a make a lot of mistakes and will break stuff, but when I was exposed to this before, at Hewlett Packard, it was great fun, and the CNC part is working nicely now, I might just use that initially to make long straight light cuts, which should help me not try to hog stuff out with a 1mm mill!
The cool thing is the factory is 2 miles from here, and they are way helpful, and they have a machinist on site always available for questions.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Yep, I’m going into this assuming a make a lot of mistakes and will break stuff, but when I was exposed to this before, at Hewlett Packard, it was great fun, and the CNC part is working nicely now, I might just use that initially to make long straight light cuts, which should help me not try to hog stuff out with a 1mm mill!
The cool thing is the factory is 2 miles from here, and they are way helpful, and they have a machinist on site always available for questions.
Greg
Greg,
At the least get yourself a couple of 3/16 and 1/4 endmills, flat bottoms and a stubby flute length. 2 flute and THEN do some playing around and experimenting. Best way to get to “know” your mill and it’s potential. Cut down on the varibles. That .949 cutter would be trouble for even the most experienced machinist :)! Every machine is "different (even in the same brand and types). I used huge hydrotels early on in my trade and right up to the last few years of my career. These mils weighed any where from 5 tons up to 50 tons with 30 to 50 H.P. and everyone one of them acted a little different when cutting. These were all hydraulic in the three axis’. Getting the proper “feel” during the cut and turning the handles, became a real concept to master. One thing it did do was to get the die sinker to properly set his feeds and speeds correctly!
They gave me a set of six 3/8" end mills, will get some scrap nylon / delrin to play first, then probably some chunks of soft aluminum.
I’ll play with feed rates and spindle speeds… hmm… since it’s a variable control, any sense to buying a cheap optical tach to read actual rpm?
The feel is a little affected by the steppers, but it’s not bad… everything turns very smoothly, and no huge backlash. I got the extra cost “zeroing” handwheels. All 3 axes feel good to me, remember I was using an older Unimat 3, which is smaller and has a lot more slop.
I think I will have to be careful with a larger motor to not try to cut too fast, the unimat would usually slow down before you got in trouble ha ha!
I did learn on large bridgeports, but that was in the late 70’s… but funny, the “feel” sort of comes back pretty quick.
Greg
My next task is to get one or 2 dial indicators, one for testing squareness/setup, and the other for general measuring.
Found some nice stuff, abotu $200-$300 each, wow, but I guess these will last a lifetime… of course I don’t want Chinese, since I’m old school German / Swiss… looking at the Bestest, carbide tip, etc. the 0.0005" stuff…
Starett was suggested, which I’m sure is good enough for my very limited abilities.
My 0.040 carbide end mill is arriving today, we’ll see how it works.
Greg
Wow Greg, you aren’t wasting any time. I’m enjoying checking back on this every couple days. I’m beginning to think I should have gone for a smaller machine like you. Here are my big machines that I got moved this weekend. Now just one more move for the “little” stuff.
That is SERIOUS.
Yep this is fun, and once the shock of the initial purchase is over, then the accessories just start rolling in!
Got my little itty bitty 0.040" mill today, 2 day delivery from McMaster Carr.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
That is SERIOUS.
Yep this is fun, and once the shock of the initial purchase is over, then the accessories just start rolling in!
Got my little itty bitty 0.040" mill today, 2 day delivery from McMaster Carr.
Greg
Yeah, the accessories just start rolling in…it’ll all be fun now. The machining hobby can really get addictive when you realize all the neat “things” you can make yourself :). Usually McMaster-Carr is next morning/day delivery. Was the shipping about $7-$8? That cutter probably looks a great deal smaller in “real life”, doesn’t it? Maybe “we” should start a little pool and make a guess on the life expectancy of this itty-bitty little cutter…just teasing :).
The cutter was in a tube about the volume of 6 toothpicks, came in a much larger box, shipping about $5 so was pleased, not outrageous.
Yeah, I’m going to try to play with some stuff this weekend, a chunk of nylon or delrin and a 3/8" shank mill… the 1/8" shank 0.040 mill can “watch” from a safe distance.
I’ve never programmed a mill before, although looks straightforward. Need to find the emergency stop button on the software, like first time in fast car, check brakes first!
Watched a video on use of wiggler, makes lots of sense, always wondered how they worked.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
The cutter was in a tube about the volume of 6 toothpicks, came in a much larger box, shipping about $5 so was pleased, not outrageous.
Yeah, I’m going to try to play with some stuff this weekend, a chunk of nylon or delrin and a 3/8" shank mill… the 1/8" shank 0.040 mill can “watch” from a safe distance.
I’ve never programmed a mill before, although looks straightforward. Need to find the emergency stop button on the software, like first time in fast car, check brakes first!
Watched a video on use of wiggler, makes lots of sense, always wondered how they worked.
Greg
A suggestion for you when you program your first milling cut. Tryout the program with NO cutter in the spindle or have “Z” way above your workpiece (possibly with a cutter installed). IF your program uses the Z axis, the is DOUBLY important. A Z axis “crash” can do the most damage to your mill because that entails your spindle. In fact, it’s a pretty good idea (even with experience) to do a “trial run” with every NEW program. I have an extra module program embedded in my MasterCam software that allows me to run a graphics animation program showing the tool path, the cutter and the spindle and the workpiece and the part being produced. Gouges or crashes are graphically presented. It also notes which lines of code produced the errors.
Yep, I was thinking no cutter, or perhaps a pipe cleaner and the motor off, and my finger on the on/off switch on the motion control box.
I’ll look to see if the tool path animation is available in the Mach4 software, looks like it has a “tool path” screen to show this.
Thanks,
Greg