H.J., what I’m reading right now might interest you…
In 1954, E.P. Dutton of New York published the memoir of an Austrian alpinist (I know, you’re a Swiss…
who had been on a German exploratory expedition into the Himalayas in 1939 in preparation for an assault on a peak called Nanga Parbat the following year.
On his return down from the mountains, he found himself in India, which was then, of course British territory, just as the UK had declared war on Germany. He was interned in a camp by apologetic local officials, and after several abortive attempts, in 1943 he finally escaped for keeps, into Tibet, where after many adventures he became an advisor/tutor to the young Dalai Lama.
Only in 1950, at the time of the Chinese invasion, were he, the Dalai Lama, and many others obliged to leave Tibet.
The author had been an Olympic skiier on the Austrian team, and had also made a name for himself as a climber by assaulting and winning over the famous North Face of The Eiger (You’ll know of that: 2000 metres of vertical rock.)
This climb was illegal - the Swiss authorities had declared it off-limits because it was considered impossible, a real mankiller. Many had lost their lives in the attempt.
His story is a fascinating account of life at all levels in the ‘Hidden Kingdom’ prior to the Communist takeover. Tibet has always held a great fascination for me, ever since I did a high school project on this exotic land, and arouynd the same time read accounts of other Himalayan adventures, such as the first climb up Everest and Annapurna, and as a cross-country skiier I used to ski an area in Ontario called Dhaulighari, after Annapurna and Everest’s neighbouring peak.
After the publication of his book, the author became known internationally, and visited America on speaking engagements several times.
On Saturday at my favourite used bookstore, his old book ‘fell off the shelf’ into my hands. I’ve been rivetted to it ever since…
Heinrich Harrer: “Seven Years in Tibet”, Hardcover, 314 pages, illustrated with 40 b/w photographs, EP Dutton, New York, 1954.