Too clean!(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
" Rooster " said:
Nice work
Would be nice to see it outside under natural light though.
I just painted the corn syrup tank car and thought it looked pretty good. I took it outside in the daylight and in certain areas I could see right thru to the primer. In one spot right thru to the plastic. I thought I had good lighting! It looked good in the picture. I think the white adjustment and the field of depth need tuning on my camera.
Nice, Burl, 100% professional. Those guys on the weathering website have nothing on you. Don Smith over on Industrial Models holds up.
Funny you should mention taking pictures. I don’t know if this is where you got the idea or not, but when I first got started I read all the old magazines and a few of them from the 50s and 60s mentioned how John Allen took pictures as one way of judging his work (not that he saw the day he could weather like this).
Thanks for letting us in on these projects.
I am down to the home stretch on making up parts for these, when I ran into this problem:
I was planning on using Gary Raymond wheel sets. I had small stash I was using to build my own stuff with, but I don’t have enough to put with kits to sell. I have tried ordering more from him over the past two years, with no luck. He’s always “out of stock”, or tries to sell me something else I don’t want. So I decided to try the equivalent wheel diameter from The Train Department.
They look fine from the side:
[img]http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/wheel_comparison_side.jpg[/img]
However, the tread is significantly wider, as you can see from the top:
[img]http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/wheel_comparison_top.jpg[/img]
So wide, in fact, they bind in my trucks.
I prefer the look of Gary's wheels, but their availability leaves something to be desired. The Train Department wheels are readily available, but there's a trade-off with the look. So here are my options:
1) Try to get more from Gary Raymond (which may take a long time, or not happen at all),
2) Make my bolsters slightly wider & go with The Train Department wheels, or
3) Find someone with a stash of Gary Raymond's 136UL wheels they're willing to part with.
Input, anyone?
Burl,
I don’t know what advice to give cause the Train Department wheels look so huge both in width and flange depth. It’s similar to the code 88 vs. code 110 wheels in HO scale…
What specificity is Gary trying to sell you that you don’t like? Flange depth? Material? Size of wheel? Insulated vs non insulated? I think having the answers to these questions would be more helpful in making a decision one way or another.
Speaking of your trucks, is there enough slop in the trucks to regauge the wheels to P:29? Or would that require a wider bolster? I know the USAT trucks that I have experimented with have enough slop to widen the wheels with no problem.
This ultimately leads to another question. Have your (or anyone else) tried contacting a local machine shop to see how much it would be to do a run of wheels and axles? I’ve always wondered if that would be similar cost wise as any commercial product like Gary Raymond’s wheels.
Craig
The last couple times I tried to order from him, Gary wanted to sell me the short axle version. Those will not work with my rotating bearing caps.
I’m not sure I know what P:29 means… 49.65mm track gauge? The bolsters are where the design compromise is to make mine 1:29, but fit 45mm gauge track, so widening the bolster would probably work.
Custom machining wheels is probably out of the question. I pursued that avenue a year or two ago & didn’t get anywhere.
Burl Rice said:
The last couple times I tried to order from him, Gary wanted to sell me the short axle version. Those will not work with my rotating bearing caps.
I’m not sure I know what P:29 means… 49.65mm track gauge? The bolsters are where the design compromise is to make mine 1:29, but fit 45mm gauge track, so widening the bolster would probably work.
Custom machining wheels is probably out of the question. I pursued that avenue a year or two ago & didn’t get anywhere.
Burl,
I’ve been experimenting with Proto:29 or 49.65mm gauge thus my question. Glad to know that you at least tried to pursue custom machining.
Burl
Would usa wheels work?
Good question… I didn’t realize they sold them separate? Does anyone know the wheel diameter?
Hope this will shed some light on the subject!
This is from Greg’s site: wheels
Intersting read : http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=416&Itemid=482
Burl here is some more info , maybe too much?
http://www.usatgscalegroup.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4334&p=14814&hilit=wheels#p14814
http://www.usatgscalegroup.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4334&p=14814&hilit=wheel+sizes#p14814
I can’t read the usatgscalegroup posts because I’m not a member (but now I’m pending).
Greg’s post is interesting, but I don’t see where he stated a final cost? He said he was quoted less than Aristo’s $10 a wheel… but I would need axles & bushings too.
Burl Rice said:
I can’t read the usatgscalegroup posts because I’m not a member (but now I’m pending).
Greg’s post is interesting, but I don’t see where he stated a final cost? He said he was quoted less than Aristo’s $10 a wheel… but I would need axles & bushings too.
Check out page 23 :https://www.charlesro.com/pdf/gscale.pdf
Looking at alternatives, I examined Sierra Valley wheel sets last night. Or rather, re-examined. I had ordered some several months ago to evaluate. They measure 1.181", which makes them 34.25" in 1:29. I hadn't seriously considered them at the time because I needed 33" wheels. When I did my first mock-up of my underframe, I used 36" wheels (because thats what I had on hand), and the clearance wasn't there. So I knew I couldn't fudge it too much.
Gary Raymond was the only one I could find that listed a true 33" wheel set in 1:29, but after over a year of requesting them, they never became available. I thought I might use #1 scale 36" wheels, and just live with the difference - 32.625", which was pretty close. But now I don't seem to be able to get those either.
Anyway, I put some Sierra Valley wheels in this morning & did a side-by-side comparison:
[img]http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/wheel_comparison_sv_side.jpg[/img]
[img]http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/wheel_comparison_sv_top.jpg[/img]
Where Gary's wheels excel is the backs. Everything else I've looked at (except Kadee) has a flat back. But since this is a box car, much of that detail is hidden.
[img]http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/wheel_comparison_sv_3_4ths.jpg[/img]
To my eyes, they look almost identical in dimension. My calipers only see about .010" difference.
And they don’t have that ridiculously wide tread neither. Under a boxcar, with the backs painted black, they look like they should work. I do like the proper back detail on the other ones though.
I may have spoken too soon. Gary says he has what I want in stock now. I may stock up on his, and the Sierra Valley while I can.
Sean McGillicuddy said:
Check out page 23 :https://www.charlesro.com/pdf/gscale.pdf
IF the dates are correct on page 2, this is last years !? And from what I’ve been told and read, their parts stock is slim into this years last quarter … more ‘miss than hit’ !
If the link works here is their Oct 28th 2016 (alleged) ‘in-stock’ list ;
I think I have finished the instructions: http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/instructions.pdf
I have put in an order with Gary Raymond for more wheel sets. That should be the last thing I’m waiting on before I can release this kit.
I wasn’t expecting these for another week. I feel like Christmas came early:
(http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/136UL.jpg)
This is the last thing that was holding me up on releasing kits. They will be available on my website in a few days. See: http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS5077/
There were a lot of brass castings in this, which makes it a little more expensive. Price will be $275 + shipping. BUT, that includes trucks & couplers.
The first kit is going to it’s new home today. So this is officially released.
