…winking…
I have both but if I could have only one I’d choose the brad nailer. The pin nailer is great for tight little places and to hold things in alignment while the glue dries but has virtually no permanent holding power on its own except to provide shear strength for a glued joint. If the glue fails the headless pins won’t hold things together.
The brads in the brad nailer have heads on them and can be used for jobs both with and without glue. Much more versatile that way. The brads are usually 18 gauge and available in lengths as short as 1/2" depending on the particular brad nailer you get. Be sure and check the size ranges on any you contemplate buying to be sure it’ll do what you need.
I disagree on buying the cheapest tool available in any category. Long run and on average you will get better service and longer life from a quality tool. Note that quality doesn’t always mean the most expensive but cheap is seldom ever anything but…cheap. My brad nailer is a Porter Cable and I’ve never had a regret buying it. Senco is an excellent brand also but a bit more expensive than a similar Porter Cable and I don’t believe it’s any better. Of course you might get lucky now and then off the bargain counter. Take a chance…it’s up to you.
I use a Grex 23ga pinner, a Craftsman 18ga brad nailer, and a Senco Accuset 18ga stapler. The pinner shoots fasteners from 3/8" to 1 1/4"; the brad nailer shoots fasteners from 3/8" to 1 3/8"; the stapler shoots fasteners from 1/2" to 1 1/2" long. Each of these tools has specific uses, and I do not consider that they are interchangeable.
As to buying the cheapest, that’s fine if you are not building much precision into whatever you need to fasten. The major difference between more expensive brand name nailers and the cheaper Harbor Freight variety is both in the length range, and (especially) in the accuracy of where and how the nail is placed. For modeling work, it’s critical to know exactly where the nail is being driven, and that it’s not going to come out the side of the joint or be driven into your fingers that are holding the target items.
My Grex pinner is the most accurate, and gets the most use on models. While the headless pins do require glued joints, they require very little in the way of finishing. The brad nailer is a good general purpose tool, but the headed nails usually need some finish work to hide them. The 18ga nails also tend to split the wood more than the 23ga pins. I use the stapler for fastening larger, rougher use items like carrying cases and infrastructure items where the accuracy and appearance are not so critical.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
I’m a sucker for air nailers…
From Senco I have a framing nailer, a 16 gauge brad nailer, an 18 gauge brad nailer, and a 16 gauge stapler. The two brad nailers and the stapler came in a special package from Home Depot 3-4 years ago. I picked up a Grex 23 gauge headless pinner at ECLSTS about 3 years ago and the framing nailer last spring for a major repair job on the house.
I use them all and agree with everything said here except the “go with cheapest” advice. Senco is a good economy brand that can often be found on sale. They each have a specific purpose. Once you’ve used a nailer of any sort you’ll never go back.
BTW, the framing nailer scares the crap out of me - but not quite as bad as the Ramset gunpowder fired nailer 
Thanks for the info.
I picked up a Grex 18 gauge brad gun.
I use cedar, for the most part, on my buildings. Including individual board and batten. They are glued and then nailed with tiny nails. I use a dremel to pre drill a hole for the nail so they won’t split.
How do I keep from splitting these pieces with a brad gun or pinner?
talking about brad guns…
how much pressure does one use with them?
John Bouck said:
Thanks for the info. I picked up a Grex 18 gauge brad gun.I use cedar, for the most part, on my buildings. Including individual board and batten. They are glued and then nailed with tiny nails. I use a dremel to pre drill a hole for the nail so they won’t split.
How do I keep from splitting these pieces with a brad gun or pinner?
John,
I’ve never had any problem with splitting when I use my pinner, but my pins are in the neighborhood of 20-22g.
John with the 18 guage brads you shouldn’t have much splitting if any the brad drives so fast it’s not like driving one in with a hammer. Experiment with pressures and materials before you start on a project
Korm Kormsen said:
talking about brad guns...how much pressure does one use with them?
Korm,
Just grab a piece or two of scrap wood and try it out. For cedar siding of about 1/8" thick into a backing start with around 65# and adjust from there. Also you’ll get a “feel” for the gun. Try to hold the gun with consistent pressure and take your time. You’re not on a high speed production line, it’s a hobby.
Richard Smith said:Back when we actually built houses at my work (now we buy pre-fab modules) the project managers always complained about the framers and their nailers. They would shoot so many toe nails into a stud that it would all but disintegrate. When the sheet rockers came through, half of the studs would push right out :(
[i][/i]Try to hold the gun with consistent pressure and take your time. You're not on a high speed production line, it's a hobby. ;)
Most nailers offer either a rapid fire trigger or a single shot. For both safety and accuracy all of mine are set to single shot.
Richard Smith said:Yep!
You're not on a high speed production line, it's a hobby. ;)
thanks, Richard.
i bought that thing about four months ago, and am shy to use it.
but now i’ll have to. itst time for trestle-building.
18 gauge brad nailer is the way to go. I have built a tressel and several buildings with it and did not use any glue. These have held up for several years without falling apart. If you mind the small holes the nail heads leave just fill them up with any type of wood hole filler and give them a light sanding. When you paint over them they dissappear.
Big John
When it comes to glue, I’m very anal.
Use a good quality and lots of it!
Then use the fasteners after that.
My new gun is on the way.
Now I have to get a small pancake compressor and a hose.
Who makes the quietest oil-less compressor?
You do when you put it in a seperate area. And unless you oil your new gun through the air connection on a regular basis it will rust inside from the moisture caused by the compressed air. They do make inline oilers for this reason.
Here’s a question from a total novice about these tools. Do any of them shoot a nail or pin that is comparable to a rail spike? I have hand laid about 300’ of rail and my hand is really starting to complain from driving spikes into the cedar and/or pine ties.
Thanksm
Dave
NoDave, they don’t. Get the ‘Spiker’ a job specific tool that makes life easy.
I will oil the gun, but I want my air dry for air brush usage.
I thot maybe one compressor would do all.
That’s why I’m considering an “oil-less” compressor.
John, I’m pretty sure all the small air compressors for home use are oil-less ( at least all I have seen are ) .But, the compressed air in the tank will have some condensation in it from the pressure.To dry the air they sell a water trap that goes in the line between the compressor and the tools. I mention the oiler because air tools need to be internally lubricated to prevect rust from the moisture in the compressed air.As long as you are going to oil the gun as recommended by the manufacturer the gun will be fine. If you add the water trap inline you will eliminate the water in your sprayer.
They are all somewhat noisy, but if you isolate it in another area or build an enclosure for it you can deaden the sound.
John, I spray lacquer and stains in my cabinet shop, I don,t have a a water trap in my system but I make sure I routinely drain the water out of the tank. You will also find that most of the oil-less compressors are quite loud compared to equal sized belt driven oil type compressors. And they last alot longer in a enviroment where I use it everyday. Killed many oil-less ones in my day. But for the hobbyist a oil-less is fine, do as Dave recomends, isolate it somewhat, put it outside for the non winter months. Don’t p*ss the neighbours off tho.