Large Scale Central

Percent Grade Elevation

Here’s what I use to set my grades. This is about as simple as it comes.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/Levals-1.jpg)

The length is 20" long, thats 1/5 th the 100" used as a percentage for grade. a 3% grade has a rise of .6" for 20" of run. I found that using a 4 ft level was hard to handle and I couldn’t get grades correct on the curves, Which i have many and constantly on the Mountain division. I drive a stake in the roadbed at desired height, set the raised end on the 1st stake and drive the next stake at the other end, set it to the depth until the level is level. Repeat.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/Levals-2.jpg)

Flip it over for the level sections.

Well done, Dave, and perfectly explained. Nothing could be simpler.

That is a great idea Dave to have the preset levels. The angle indicator idea I used that is in Garden Railways Tips and Tricks Oct. 2010 is along the same lines. With a preset spot or grade stake driven into the ground a piece of 6’- 8’ 2x4 with the dial on top is placed to the next grade stake and then it is lowered or raised to the appropriate height. With the indicator on a shorter piece of wood I was able to go around curves.
Any more photos of your layout Dave?
Todd

Todd and Steve, Thanks for the advice. I’ve actually adjusted the grade to accommodate a 10" clearance per your advice Todd. Steve, the track being crossed over is already on a gradual grade, (probably 2%), but I have contemplated lowering the entire segment of that track, which would enable accomplishing more clearance at the crossover. Since much of my original track is removed to enable work on the new crossover area, that will be easy to manage.

Also, I’ve noted that several segments of my original track (layed 1999) has deteriorating ties. I contacted Aristo and was surprised to find that their tie strips are guaranteed for life! I merely have to provide them a photo sample of the bad ties, indicate how many segments i need and they’ll ship them for free. Not bad. Our high desert sun is hard on things. Also noted that the segments of old LGB track ties strips are fine. Perhaps another complement to the original LGB products.

Great idea Dave, simple but effective. BTW I think its time you start posting more pictures of that layout I see in your pictures. We would all like to see more of your “Mountain Division” layout.

Chuck

Chuck Inlow said:
...I think its time you start posting more pictures of that layout I see in your pictures. We would all like to see more of your "Mountain Division" layout. Chuck
By gar, I seconds dat for sure, me.

Rich, regarding your failing sleepers (ties). I know that Aristo guarantees them for life, but only taxes last forever.

There are two ways to prolong the life of your ties:

1.  Paint them with a UV resistant paint.

2.  Give them a shot of a UV resistant spray like [url=http://www.armorall.com/]Armor All[/url] or [url=http://www.303products.com/]303[/url] every 6 months or so.  Aristo recommends 303, but others recommend Armor All because it will keep the plastic in the ties more flexible, longer.

I have done both, depending on my whim.

I use 303 on my kevlar canoe. So far, so good.

Either solution will prevent the hassle of having to replace your ties again.

Steve, good advice. I like the idea of painting the new strips before I install them, and also trying it on a couple of rail segments in place. I’ll keep everyone posted. Thanks.

I spray the tie strips with armorall every 6 months… I turned Lewis on to 303, even better UV protection, but does not penetrate dirty ties as easily… more UV protection, but no plasticizers.

If your ties are cleaned first, and you can afford it, the 303 is the “topper”

hose down the ties
spray with armorall to penetrate and keep plastic flexible
wait a couple of days, spray again and spray with 303

that would be the best… so far armorall (actually the turtle wax copy in the lime green bottle is best) alone every 6 months is doing well.

Greg