Forrest,
the main colours to be wary of are factory finished matt black and gloss black and gloss red and gloss maroon. These finishes normally require either removal or a little prayer said at the time the nozzle is depressed on the spray can. Worse than the ‘peel’ effect is that the overcoat will physically paint strip the underlying colours. This softens up the factory finish, so even if you were able to sand the self applied finish smooth the underlying paint does not harden and so the strip process continues. I very rarely spray enamel paint as the thinner base used is too aggressive with the underlying factory finishes. I normally try to stick with acrylics or automotive lacquers.
Tim Brien said:Point noted. This was matte maroon, which is why I wanted to gloss coat it with spray enamel.
the main colours to be wary of are factory finished matt black and gloss black and gloss red and gloss maroon.
Tim Brien said:My line of logic was that lacquer solvent would have been most likely to react. And that acrylic would not be durable enough - have used Tamiya, PollyScale clears for decades and just recently got into the Future acrylic thing but thought those would not be durable enough for frequent handling and the occasional being out in weather.
I very rarely spray enamel paint as the thinner base used is too aggressive with the underlying factory finishes. I normally try to stick with acrylics or automotive lacquers.
My logical reasoning out of the situation appears to have been VERY backwards.
See, my line of logic is that in 1983 I could spray enamel paint over Athearn HO trains with reckless abandon and it came out fine every time, except when I caused a run.
And with this being the 21st century, chemistry is more advanced, spray paints would work even better now.
Boy am I a bloody fool for thinking like that.
The world has changed, people have changed, and model trains are just too big a hassle in this day and age.
At the rate this is going, now that the cars have factory paint primed over, is this set going to wind up not as the unique creation desired but as a four hundred dollar box of trash?
Forrest,
I used to use Testors Dullcote but found that it is unsuitable outdoors. Apparently, the spray contains talcum powder and is hygroscopic, causing it to cloud over (milky appearance) if humidity is high. My clear coat of choice for the last seven years is a matte medium craft spray (gloss firstly before decalling if painted surface is matte finish, followed by either a matte or semi-gloss spray as a topcoat to seal the decal, taking care the finish clear coat is not heavy to avoid wrinkling the decal) used to seal CD covers, photographs and oil based paints for artists. It does however, not like Bachmann’s finishes and generally will finish up like your initial posting photograph. This topic was brought up some months ago on the Bachmann forum and some commented no problems whatever in overcoating Bachmann finishes. They must have been extremely lucky.
As a post script, in my head I believe that Tamiya spray paints are compatable with Bachmann finish coats and go on smoothly.
I would bet that 95%( or more) of Bachmann owners don’t repaint their rolling stock.
The Bachmann factory paint will outlast anything I paint out in the weather.
This is a case of something they are doing correctly for the masses, that makes it difficult for the minority of us who repaint their products.
As for the suggestion of using lacquer…that is most likely the answer.
Clear lacquer finishes are readily available.
When I first came across this problem, my brother suggested using lacquer.
As I already had 6 cans of the color I wanted to use(had to order a case), I tried the plastic primer.
It worked, but had a few problems of it’s own.
When I finish with the J/S cars I am currently painting, I’ll try lacquer on the next job.
Ralph
Ralph Berg said:Democracy sometimes sucks.
This is a case of something they are doing correctly for the masses, that makes it difficult for the minority of us who repaint their products.
I have some brush on clear lacquer which is being used to seal balsa and cardstock in some of my boat and structure projects.
Might test it on the Glenbrook Valley tender?
Shellac anyone?
Have some of that too.
Alright, let’s go dismantle the GV tender and see what happens.
EDIT: actually the GV tender paint is somewhere between semi gloss and gloss.
Hmm.
got some settlement money early middle of last year and got a couple sets plus the SPC Annie.
It’s red paint on cab, domes, is almost dead flat; tender is what might be called almost dead flat; - dig it out and try it?
I want to know to start with what is going to work - these things are too expensive to be playing Russian Roulette with - no way I can afford to replace any of them, you don’t get rich on disability.
I use Krylon clear acrylic. I don’t think it is lacquer though. I don’t have any Bachman though, except for my railtruck.
Okay, went last night and used Future brushed on to SPC tender - it’s compatable, it works.
Wasn’t up to airbrushing, hands too stiff and swollen, never know when they are not going to be, so gotaa go on and do stuff anyway.
got a couple runs, they do sand out.
working on painting deck with red zinc chromate PollyScale - it works fine.
Going to make new coal load from aquarium charcoal. will have photos evntually.
Just got off phone with Jennifer at Bachmann parts, new shell on the way.
After it arrives, anyone want this one for the funky texture?
I might be able to use it–how much do ya want?
Robbie Hanson said:Incoming e-mail.
I might be able to use it--how much do ya want?
Before you give away or sell the old, be sure the new arrives painted and lettered. I’ve had repair parts for a specific model show up unpainted.
Replacement V&T tender shell just arrived from Bachmann.
looks fine, includes wood load, grab irons, water valve handles, ladder on back.