actually a full wave bridge connected to the track pickups…
please read:
Greg
Greg, yes. I just assume a full wave rectifier when I say rectifier. I should have been more clear.
Greg/David…
Thank you both for your input and in particular for your patience dealing with a rookie such as myself. Good links and I think I’m getting a grasp (sort of).
I gather I need a CL2-N3-G for each car, which I found on Mouser. And a bridge rectifier for each car.
Need help on which bridge rectifier…can you perhaps give me a Mouser part number for the proper one? (there are many, and I don’t really understand the specs…)
Thx again!
Ron
I don’t have a part number, but since you only need 20 miliampres, and the track voltage is only about 20 to 24 volts. A 35 or 50 volt, 1 amp bridge would work just fine. You just want to make sure the bridge can handle the load required, but using a 5 amp bridge would be overkill.
David, thx for the reply…does this one make sense?
Mouser Part #:
750-CDBHD140L-G
Manufacturer Part #:
CDBHD140L-G
Manufacturer:
Comchip Technology##
Description:
Bridge Rectifiers LOW VF 1A 40V Schottky Bridge
Ron
Ron, a shottky one is a bit overkill. Something like this would work just fine
and at 43 cents each, you could get a few for your future projects too. There are so many to choose from, and many others will do the job just fine. I would look for one with leads on it, like this one, so you can solder your wires to it easily. Just clip an alligator clip or forceps to the lead, next to the component so the heat of soldering doesn’t run up the lead and burn out the component.
Yes Greg, those of us who have soldered a lot, can do a quick solder and not burn up a rectifier. But not everyone has those kinds of skills. And its better to take a moment to clip a heat sink to the lead, then to build the circuit and have it not work. Even though I can do it, I still clip my forceps to the leads, it gives me a handle to hold the component with, as well as protecting it from too much heat.
David, thx!
I’ll order a dozen or so each (bridge rectifiers & CL2’s), will dive in and likely be back with some wiring questions if I can’t figure out the proper circuity from the many good threads here…appreciate your help!
Once again, great forum!
Ron
again, depending on the track voltage you wish to have for full brightness, worst case I’d use 2 LEDs in parallel fed by a CL2, BUT I would think you want more than 2 LEDs in a car.
So, you can use a single bridge rectifier per car, therefore the current consumption is going to be more than 20 ma…
“but since you only need 20 miliampres,”
the recommendation to use a 1 amp bridge is a good one, but because you will most likely need at least 40 milliamps, most likely 60, not 20 milliamps. (just a nit picking correction, still nowhere near one amp)
Greg
Greg, yes. I usually go with 1 amp rectifiers, because they will do just fine for most of my projects. YMMV.
the only thing is that they are bulky… so, when you start doing stuff in tiny spaces, you might go smaller, but i used to get the 1 or 1.5 amp ones from radio shack when they existed and were convenient. and yes I agree, until you get really good, heat sinks help, although pretty hard to hurt those big packages… more chance of damaging the leds when soldering.
Greg
I would get the ones that are the size of a small transistor. 1.5 amp at 50 volts.
.536 cents in quantity of 10 or more
dan, you see that your link “broke” (you can see by highlighting)
go to mouser.com and then search for “w005g-e4-51”
The 2 amp one is also the same price, 2W005G-E4/51
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
the only thing is that they are bulky… so, when you start doing stuff in tiny spaces, you might go smaller, but i used to get the 1 or 1.5 amp ones from radio shack when they existed and were convenient. and yes I agree, until you get really good, heat sinks help, although pretty hard to hurt those big packages… more chance of damaging the leds when soldering.
Greg
…good advice, so you mean I can’t solder with my bernz-o-matic torch and Oaty 50/50!!! (just kidding)…
the larger ones are already on order, will mess with those b4 I progress into the tiny ones…surprised how inexpensive these components are…
Cheers,
Ron
The diode bridges do not have much heat as even 1 amp at .7 volt drop per diode is only 1.4 watts (remember the current goes through 2 diodes with a .7 volt drop). And with leds, the current would be close to 100ma and that is only .14 watts!!
Yep, diodes also give a constant voltage drop that does not change with input voltage.
Greg
wiring question…what size/type wire do you guys use for lighting, gauge? solid or stranded?
when daisy chain wiring what do you recommend to connect from car to car? I see TrainLi has the old LGB banana plugs/recepticals…anything better/different out there?
thx again!
Ron
Stranded wire always, solid will eventually break at joints from vibration, handling.
Thin wire is fine for leds, like 22-26 whatever… car to car, bigger i’d like to see 18 or 16, but I run high current.
All depends on current and length of wire and amps drawn.
I use JST style connectors, handle more current.
http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=253&Itemid=285
Greg
LGB does make a 100 mil 2 pin polarized connector and made a kit that has this plus the older style connectors.
I have many older engines from LGB with the pair of round connector jacks, and even my USA trains 20 tonner has these.
The newer style is the same pins that are found on computer boards but the cables are not polarized.
good advice guys, thx!
I like the jst’s, eze to disconnect v. the older LBG’s…also, AllElectronics seems to be another great source for a variety of stuff (heat shrink, alig clips, wire, misc stuff)…ordered a small cart full of stuff not to be found in this area.
wired up coupla cars with led’s, rectifiers & CL2…all good, great lighting!!!, but have flicker esp @ lower speed/voltage…will a capacitor fix the flicker? If so, what specs so I know what to order…link plz if you can…
Sorry for the dumb beginners questions, once again…!!!l
Thx!
Ron