I’m planning to keep the end sidings mostly for storage so they’ll be isolated from the mainline. I need to see how the existing power supply lines will need to be modified. The only drawing I have doesn’t really show what I have in mind unfortunately
Finally got an updated drawing showing how the shuttle route will be configured. I’ve simplified some aspects in favor of the shuttle arraignment. Otherwise everything remains the same.
in my understanding, that can not work.
starting on the upper left side.
a short train with two cars even with your short builds will have near 2.5’ - meaning, the train, when stopping will not clear the switch of the passing siding. making the passing-siding just an inoperable scenic detail. - just the same as the right side siding on the lower right (which would need a diode as well. as would need the siding at the top above the passing siding)
the siding in the upper right corner and the one aiming at the middle of the room seem both too short for my eyes.
my half cent…
The upper left I have moved the diode next to the turnout so that the run is a little longer. The sidings will be for car storage only and I’m only planning to a very short train up there. One short engine maybe two short cars max, two axle stuff. The upper left passing siding will have isolation joiners on one side to separate the siding from the continuous run track. That short siding pointing into the room will eventually contain a connecting track to the lower layout expansion…eventually.
Gee Wiz, Vic …why don’t you just go to battery then.
Figured I would say it before someone else does as I’m gonna get blamed for it anyway!
I just put my little trains on my track outside, plug in my little power pack, then watch them go around and around until I’m happy.
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All my stuff and bashes would require major surgery, probably fatal, to install all the electronic witchcraft necessary. Besides I’m old and grumpy and I’m used to traditional model railroad track power, the LGB stuff is recognizable to me so it’s nowhere as intimidating as Battery RC. All the problems I had outdoors I probably would consider it and may when I rebuild outside but inside I’m going old school 
on that i fully agree with you.
but…
with this, Rooster has a point:
for a “happy roundy-round” you need just one little addition. two grades of about 4% and 15 yards length each to pass from your upper level to above the upper door frame.
your strong, short engines and short trains are predetermined for mountain-goat service. 
A fascinating discussion, on a subject I’m not very versed on. All I know is that on my short back and forth (and it’s not an LGB reverser), the diode across the insulated gap+diode reacts with to the loco’s circuitry – not merely the passing metal car wheels (as with DCC stuff).
So, the location of that gap+diode (if LGB’s system is similar to mine) has everything to do with where the loco stop and reverses, not the cars. (This may be obvious to everyone else, but I’m a slow learner and learned the hard way).
For example, if the engine is always in the front, heading into a siding, that siding’s diode might be placed one loco length from its end.
But if the consist might have any arrangement of loco and cars, the diodes need to be placed as far from the ends as the longest train – as I think Korm was saying.
In other words, which end the loco is on (A, B, or either) is important to consider.
But, like I said, the LGB system might operate differently.
One last point, as I think Todd may have been alluding to, I only used cheap plastic rail insulators and soldered diodes across those gaps. I tested everything out with empty gaps, loose diodes and test wires with alligator clips before soldering everything down.
Vic, you might save some $ rolling your own, vs. buying LGB diode sections.
Again, the disclaimer. As Hollywood would say, “YMMV”. 
Wow, All I can say: Can I get an AMEN !
Well Cliff, since I consider most electrical work to be witchcraft, I think I’ll stick to off the shelf, less chance of me starting a fire with a soldering iron…which has been known to happen 
Vic, are you saying there’s associated witchcraft in switchcraft? 
the LGB shuttle electronic for DC is nothing but a electronic double throw switch to change polarity plus a timer to evade that the train starts to reverse before it stops. and it is inserted into the cables between controler and track.
I have met several people over the years that will swear LGB electric systems are possessed by the devil 
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The LGB 10345 system has a control module in one of the bumpers. You wire transformer power to the bumper. From the bumper control, current to the track. When you start the loco it moves to one end and stops. The control sets the delay (adjustable) then it reverses the current and the loco moves to the other end. Automatic operation back and forth. To use this control with a main line, the turnouts need to cut power on and off from the bumper current supply.
yeah, but only the small electrics. haven’t you heard the saying, that the devil is always in the details?
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I should add all of my turnouts are manuals, no electronics.
The devil is in the details this is why when I model I prefer to model with the 10’ rule and keeping electronics simple.
you don’t want to give the Gremlins any chance, will you?
You could still use the 10345 if you isolate the main line and each end of the two turnouts. If you don’t do that the 10345 will power up the whole main line. So using a gang switch the the shuttle loco can run. When you have a passing main line loco, flip the gang switch, power cut to the shuttle and send power to the main line, it can pass by. Since you are switching the turnouts by hand, place the gang switch next to one of them.
Exactly how mine works. Thanks for the confirmation that LGB is the same.
My main point, of course, is that diode and gap placement is critical, and is based on length of train.