You can get a smoother texture with a bit more water. Also, acoustic ceiling material (popcorn) can work. Some of this may even include the sparkle.
IS IT DONE YET?
Devon Sinsley said:
Well Dan I used to model cars at a semi competitive level. And it would really bug me when I would start a car and not finish it because I moved onto another car that caught my interest. I felt like I was a bad guy because I wouldn’t finish a project. Like there was something wrong with me. It actually made me quit modeling. I walked away. I was not enjoying what I was doing because I would never finish.
I took a few breaks myself, but I cant say that I actually walked away from model building. Although my focus changed from N scale, to 1:48 aircraft, to large scale trains to large scale and HO trains (thanks Dave (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)), but I have always been a builder and kit-basher.
Then I decided to get back into modeling first HO and now Large Scale trains. But without the competitive edge I haven’t felt the “need” to finish. What I discovered is that I far more enjoy the process than the result. The money is not “wasted” the time is not “wasted” on unfinished projects. I had to ask myself why am I doing this, its supposed to be fun, and what causes me to have fun. Well if I feel “pressured” to finish just because it “needs” to be completed then I no longer have fun and become frustrated. We all are doing this hobby to relax and walk away from the reality of our world. For me the fun is in the process not the completed project. I have decided to never lose any sleep over unfinished projects. Thats not to say I don’t want to finish projects but if I don’t no sweat.
But we do all need Seans and Davids so we do have something to play with.
I too usually feel pressure and frustration when deadlines are imposed on me. But I also need them so I “close” or finish my projects. All too often I become distracted by the next great idea, and leave the current project in limbo. Usually close to, but not quite, done. In may case, once I solve the hard parts, answer the questions of “how in the heck am I going to do/make this?” then I loose interest on the simple mechanical tasks required to finish. The hard parts are easy, and the easy parts I just can’t do.
Chuck Inlow said:
IS IT DONE YET?
No it’s not done yet because I can’t start yet. We can only day dream until the 13th. So I will be gathering materials until then. I want to start is m itching to start.
Whatever you choose as a base, you could add some crushed glass to give it a sparkle. I don’t have a picture that shows it, but when I made the alpine mountain on my layout, I painted on white latex for snow, then sprinkled with crushed glass. It glitters in the sun like real snow, but it’s hard to get a picture of the effect.
Devon, to get the smooth look of “used up” snow, may I suggest a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. You probably can find one to borrow from your friendly neighborhood retired sailor fella. The Dremel tool you want to use will just create a huge mess, and then you will have to go back and smooth it out with a hot knife or something.
This goes through foam like a hot knife through butter.
but the smell!! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)
Dan Hall said:
Whatever you choose as a base, you could add some crushed glass to give it a sparkle. I don’t have a picture that shows it, but when I made the alpine mountain on my layout, I painted on white latex for snow, then sprinkled with crushed glass. It glitters in the sun like real snow, but it’s hard to get a picture of the effect.
Dan are your referring to powdered glass or your own smashed to bits glass? A commercial product or DYI. This may be a great effect to use like the marble powder and if I can pulverize it small enough on my own would be right down my alley
Steve Featherkile said:
Devon, to get the smooth look of “used up” snow, may I suggest a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. You probably can find one to borrow from your friendly neighborhood retired sailor fella. The Dremel tool you want to use will just create a huge mess, and then you will have to go back and smooth it out with a hot knife or something.
This goes through foam like a hot knife through butter.
If you have it I will borrow it.
Sorry to derail your thread for a moment Devon but I need to ask Dan a question.
Dan, I love the mountain on your railroad, You wouldn’t have any pictures of it during construction would you?
Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
Devon Sinsley said:
Steve Featherkile said:
Devon, to get the smooth look of “used up” snow, may I suggest a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. You probably can find one to borrow from your friendly neighborhood retired sailor fella. The Dremel tool you want to use will just create a huge mess, and then you will have to go back and smooth it out with a hot knife or something.
This goes through foam like a hot knife through butter.
If you have it I will borrow it.
I have it. Now, can I find it? Film at Eleven.
Devon, I think the artist’s acrylic medium, protected by some UV clear coat, will hold up better outdoors than epoxy, which tends to yellow.
Ray Dunakin said:
Devon, I think the artist’s acrylic medium, protected by some UV clear coat, will hold up better outdoors than epoxy, which tends to yellow.
Ray, epoxy, covered with a UV coat, will not yellow. Boat builders do it all the time. My fiberglass/epoxy kayak is covered with 3 coats of Spar Varnish, and after 15 years, looks as good as the day I finished her. No yellowing. No need to avoid epoxy.
Dan, I wont mind the derail as that is a very cool mountain.
Ray, this particular project is for an indoor build. But any good guitar maker will tell you UV is still an issue indoors, though at a much lesser degree. Purple Heart and Rosewood are popular woods in guitar making especially fret boards. They have good tonal qualities but that bright rich purple and red fades after time if not UV protected. I am finding wood turners also agree. But there are all sorts of UV clear sprays available. That said I am not at all opposed to the acrylic as it will be much more friendly to use than an epoxy and there is no “need” for epoxy.
I noticed in the new Model Railroading, they mentioned rock slides … you could go that way Devon.
Devon Sinsley said:
Dan Hall said:
Whatever you choose as a base, you could add some crushed glass to give it a sparkle. I don’t have a picture that shows it, but when I made the alpine mountain on my layout, I painted on white latex for snow, then sprinkled with crushed glass. It glitters in the sun like real snow, but it’s hard to get a picture of the effect.
Dan are your referring to powdered glass or your own smashed to bits glass? A commercial product or DYI. This may be a great effect to use like the marble powder and if I can pulverize it small enough on my own would be right down my alley
That is one damn nice mountain ! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
Sean McGillicuddy said:
I noticed in the new Model Railroading, they mentioned rock slides … you could go that way Devon.
Ideally it will be both as both occur in the same places. I am not sure how talented I am but the idea will be as the snow recedes it will expose rocks and debris from previous snow and rock slides. It all looks great in my head but being able to translate that to the model. . .well that will be new territory for me. In my HO and N days I did fool with scenery but not to any, what I would call realistic, degree. So I will be in uncharted waters but I am not afraid to swim.
This will have to be done in more or less two phases. The overall idea is this is my build challenge and has to be built in 30 days. I can’t get to fancy with landscaping. So I will build the shed and then see where I get with the landscaping detail. I would prefer to not to do a hurry up job on landscaping and come back too it. So I will develop these techniques and apply them as I go.
But a rock fall will be for sure part of the equation.
rock slide will be very easy, and simple, put rocks into a cup, and pour down mountain side, or using s piece of cardboard, hold cardboard at mountain top pour rocks/dirt/debris behind it then lift to create slide.
On the translucent side of your snow, could you laminate several layers of clear acrylic, dremel them to shape then lightly spraymetallic white and add the crushed glass for sparkle effect.
OK, so out of curiosity, I went looking for photos of snow sheds with worn out snow, and found exactly one. Devon, note that where plowed, the snow is lumpy, but otherwise, it is smooth. All photos from RailPictures.net, and copyright is as noted by the photographer.
http://www.railpictures.net/photo/60781/
Another thing I noted is that snowsheds only occur where there is a need for them, like this avalanche chute.
http://www.railpictures.net/photo/75177/
Or, this one.
http://www.railpictures.net/photo/302245/
I tried to find photos of snow sheds on Stevens’ Pass, but they are elusive. Perhaps others will have better luck.
Those are great shots Steve and do illustrate well the realization that they are not really built on rock faces but adjacent to them. That was a recent discovery I address in my challenge post. It will require me to move where I was thinking of putting it. The location of the middle picture is about how I see the landscape looking.
Also I agree the snow should be smooth. For this model the plowed stuff will already be gone (I don’t want to model it) so what will be left will be the smooth remnants on top of the shed and part way up the chute. It needs to be smooth but not fluffy and it needs to be dirty. I think Ray’s plan is where I will at least start the experiment. Carved foam covered in white paint and then use the clear acrylic and marble powder. Until this idea came up i never have given any thought to old used up snow. You don’t see it modeled.