Large Scale Central

Metal Wheels

Modeling Rolling stock
#41

Did all of that, but didn’t use a rod and nail to drive it out. I just pulled the axle out of the hub. The plastic hubs fit snug, flush, and even in the hole in the wheel. No extraneous material (flash) was found around the perimeter of the hub. That’s why I gave up and sent the last batch back to Bachmann because I couldn’t find anything obvious that could be fixed. Maybe I’m missing something. Some of these wheels spin like the Gary Raymond’s, some don’t. I don’t think the axles are bent or the wheels out of round!

John, you’re getting your wheels from the same source. Let’s see if you see the same thing I do with these wheels or if I’m expecting too much and being picky.

#42

No one has said it yet, so I will. Not all wheels are the same size. Don’t ask how I know that. It’s not too important really, until you start converting couplers, as even 1 or 2 mm difference in wheel diameter will affect the height of the ocupler. All my Bachmann passenger cars have EZ roll wheels, most of my freight cars as well. The rest have Bachmann metal wheels that I scrounged from other cars. Had to use my Kadee height gauge to keep the cars coupled.

#43

Yes, the USA wheels are smaller then most. The Bachmann and Heartland wheels are almost the same size, so close I cant tell the difference in size.

A KaDee height gauge is a good investment. Even teh same make of car with the same wheels can have variations in coupler height.

No, the Bachmann wheels are probably not out of round, the plastic insert is usually not inserted straight.

#44

#45

No comprende. Who’s beating a dead horse? I don’t see anybody repeating the same thing over and over or repeating what’s already been said on other threads in the forum. Don’t wanna read it? Skip over it. No horses to beat here! I learn something everyday about Large Scale and like to interact with my constituents here!

One reason I went with these Bachmann Big Hauler Large wheels is that they’re pretty much the same size as the ones on my USAT and LGB reefers and did I say they look good?

#46

One reason I went with these Bachmann Big Hauler Large wheels is that they’re pretty much the same size as the ones on my USAT and LGB reefers and did I say they look good?

Bachmann’s wheels are cast and not polished. I used to own a hopper train that ran indoors on Clem’s exhibition layout. The noise from the wheels was horrendous. Outdoors, not so much.

#47

I knew I read somewhere where someone thought they were noisy indoors - evidently because they are cast (metal alloy?) and not turned on a CNC machine. Must have been your observations, Pete.

#48

ANY type/brand of metal wheels will be noisier than plastic wheels, on ANY track. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)

  • Bachmann wheels are cast from a non-ferrous metal that is ideal for cars left out in the weather, as they do not rust. The steel axle (inside the plastic sleeve) will rust though.
#49

I like the sound of metal wheels on track.

Gary, whatever. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

#50

David Maynard said:

I like the sound of metal wheels on track.

Me too, David. Not only that, I dremel 1/4" notches in the track just to get that clickety-clack sound going as the metal wheels pass. The notches are unnoticeable, and I can sit back in my leather chair, smoke my Sherlock Holmes pipe, and relax.

#51

Gee, I cut notches in the rail-heads to do the same thing, but I only get the clicks at joints. But the gentle hiss of metal wheels rolling on metal rails is nice too.

#52

David I was curious and went out on the layout and checked just for the heck of it, and indeed the notches I ground in the railheads are a full 1/4" so if you’re not hearing that rhythmic (I hate trying to spell that word!) RR wheel clacking maybe your notches aren’t as wide?

#53

Mine are the width of a Demel cut off disk, so no they are not as wide as yours. But the joints are not even as wide as my notches and they click. Probably because the rail-heads aren’t in perfect alignment at the joints. Either way, the notches still represent stick rail like would be used on track of my era, even if they don’t click.

#54

Metal wheels is a popular topic! Hmm, it takes a 1/4 inch, 6mm, notch to get the joint sound effect? Well, I guess considering how large large scale is … and the comparative width of a Dremel disk slot on code 100 HO gauge rails …

#55

Forrest, if the rails were even just a touch out of alignment I would get the clicking, as evidenced by the joints. The joints click, even the ones where the rails are touching. Due to variations in manufacture and assembly (my assembly) they aren’t in perfect alignment. Even just a half a millimeter of variation can cause the click. I was originally disappointed that the slots I cut didn’t produce clicks, but now its a non issue. With the sound equipped locomotives making noise, and me sitting back in my chair, 20 or so feet from the right of way, it doesn’t matter to me anymore that the I don’t have the clickity clack from each simulated joint.

What does matter to me is the reliability that metal wheels give me. Once properly gauged, they provide the reliable tracking for me to sit back and relax with a cold beverage, and just watch the trains go roundy round for hours. Or, until an observer shows up.

#56

That’s how I got started on this. I had a turnout where the track leading into created a gap and wasn’t aligned “right” anyway. It made that nice clicking sound. Didn’t affect operations one bit, but I liked the sound. I had always read about guys notching rails to get that sound, but until I heard it for myself I just filed it away as one of those good ideas. So I tried a notch or two and it’s great. I don’t have them all over the place, just a couple or so on the upper loop right now, in addition to the turnout alignment deal. I feel that too many would get annoying really.

I have a bad history with this. I had metal wheels on my indoor layout in my old house and they were really loud (later I realized my layout benchwork was acting acoustically like a drum, also). Put a box car with plastic wheels on the track…very very quiet. So I get my ebay seller to sells all my metal wheels on ebay. A complete overreaction. Now I find I like the sound on the new layout so I’m replacing the plastic with metal wheels I’m having to buy all over again. Plus metal wheels hold the track and switches much better with all that weight centered so low on the car.

Live and learn I guess. Too bad it isn’t learn and live !

#57

Gee, that’s an expensive lesson. I still have most of the plastic wheels that came with my cars. I couldn’t give them away. But some have found other uses.

#58

If you’re indoors, I think it makes a big difference if your benchwork is solid. Same with what your track is layed on. Some put foam underneath, some put Homasote or other sub-roadbed underneath the track, on top of plywood or open framework, just like HO scale. But if you don’t have anything under your track to absorb the noise of the train, or if your benchwork is not solid and vibrates “like a drum” as John says, there’s gonna be extraneous noise and a roaring sound coming form the metal wheels! And G-scale is much larger than HO scale, so even MORE noise, right? Common sense.

#59

David Maynard said:

Gee, I cut notches in the rail-heads to do the same thing, but I only get the clicks at joints. But the gentle hiss of metal wheels rolling on metal rails is nice too.

Properly turned metal wheels, liked the Gary Watkins wheels on my Accucraft hoppers, will make a gentle hiss. Bachmann’s were just a bit noisy - and Clem’s track is on foam, not plywood, so it isn’t normally possible to hear the wheels.

But I do hear the joints of most of the live steam tracks - sounds really good as each pair of trucks goes over it.

#60

Heard good things about Gary Watkins (Sierra Valley) wheels. Then I looked at his pricing and he wants $17.00 per car (unplated) and $23.20 per car (plated/oxide) plus $1.23 Cal tax and $6.50 to ship = $24.73 and $30.90 per car respectively.

Bachmann 92421 wheelsets are $11.00 per car plus $9.00 to ship a box of 6 wheelsets = $75.00 per box.

So in addition to already sinking a good chunk of change into the train car, I’m adding 11 bucks more for metal wheels and another 8 - 9 bucks a pair for Kadee 906/830 body-mounts or 831 coupler mounts in the future, and these boogers will get expensive. They say it’s a rich man’s hobby.

Sorry, just thinking out loud…