The idea of casting your own frogs sounds very intriguing. As I cast some parts already, this is something very do able. What type of resin do you use?
Thanks.
Chester
I cast them in place on the switch, as the rails themselves make up the various parts of the frog. I’ve used polyurethane resin (the stuff used for auto repair), Bondo (also used for auto repair), Alumilite, 2-part epoxy (the 5-minute glue variety), and plumber’s putty (epoxy putty) over the years.
Of those, the 2-part epoxy is the least suitable, as it has too many air holes in it from mixing. It works, but it’s not the smoothest finish. The polyurethane and Alumilite work well, but you’ve got to make some kind of dam under and around the frog so that the stuff can’t leak through. I usually do this by putting tape under the area where I’ll be laying the frog (sticky side up) before putting the rails down. The tape will stick to the rails sealing the bottom. Then some modeling clay at the ends keeps the resin from running out the end. With this, you have to pour the entire thing to the top of the rails then grind out the flangeways.
That grinding is what led me to experiment with Bondo and plumber’s putty. Because it’s much thicker consistency, you don’t need to dam things up, and you can “sculpt” the flangeways at least to some rough extent when making the frog. The plumber’s putty is probably my favorite in terms of ease of use. It comes in a roll (like a Stuckey’s pecan log), and you just slice off what you think you might need. You then knead that in your hand until mixed, then press it in place. It’s got the consistency of modeling clay, so it’s pretty workable.
I’m out of town at the moment, so I can’t get to the photos I took during my most recent switch project.
Later,
K
Kevin when you get back I would love to see the frogs you made. Is there a specific plumbers putty that you use. Lots of great info.
Me too. My supplier for frogs went out of business, and I haven’t found a decent replacement.
Stub points really need a good solid ‘baseboard’ where you can screw the turnout and all three tracks down to ensure they stay in alignment. Make sure there are no joints in the baseboard’ under the turnout too.
For ‘normal’ turnouts, I make my frogs from 1mm and 2mm thick styrene, laminated to give the correct rail height. I make them very rough shape to start and then file/cut them to match the brass rails when they are installed. The oldest one is 10 years old now. I paint the styrene to help protect from sunlight. It’s best to use black styrene so that when the paint scratches off with rail cleaning, it doesn’t show up as much as white!
(http://www.trainweb.org/SaTR/newLily%20turnout.JPG)
Note that the small ‘guide’ rails at the frog are not necessary. In the real thing they add strength, but we don’t need that. The really critical items are the long wing rails. These hold the wheels out against the main rail, to stop them ‘picking’ the point of the frog.
Some more info on my website, halfway down this page:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/track.htm
(You’ll also see my ‘swivelling turnouts’. These are stub points but don’t have any frog. I use them for sidings, where I have a good solid baseboard to screw them down.)
Thanks Greg. I forgot about your switches. I lost my bookmarks when my computer dies. I just bookmarked your site.