One factor to consider, whether you’re buying a machine or paying for prototyping services online, you need to be good with CAD software. If you’re not already there, you may face a huge learning curve on the software before you can produce anything.
There are several guys on the Finescale (Westlake Publishing) forums who are using these services to make custom parts. Really great stuff and very handy, if you can do it.
I thought you were a Maker Bot Bruce?
My dentist uses one of these things to fabricate crowns. One stop, no waiting. Cheaper than the usual method of having a lab do it.
HJ,
That is what I we eluding to. When I reviewed it those years ago, the only reason I did not purchase the package was it’s (then) inability to interface with AutoCAD in the draft side of things. The modeling was for home purposes just as good as Autodesk Inventor (the software I was running at the office). I have not reviewed it lately, but I am sure it has vastly improved over what I saw then.
Al,
I beg to differ with you on their being a ‘toy’. The resolution is fine enough (if you purchase a quality machine) for the output of the Stereo Lithography printer to be used directly in lost wax casting process for lots of small run and prototype parts. There is a modeler (can’t remember whether on this site or LSC0 that did a series on the D&RGW/RGS stock car and did all his casting patterns using SLA. It is also my understanding that he was going to be talking to Bob Hartford about Bob putting his stuff out as a kit.
Bob C.
The way I see it is if one is not in business and in need of that kind of thing, then save your money.
Oh yes. Bone up on your 3-D programing if you need one of these things.
David
Bob,
the RGS stockcar is mine. Bob has the molds an my permision to sell The parts. there are a couple of the parts, the centersill being the primary one that we have not got the production details finished yet. it is to big to be spincast and does not work well to cut in half . all the parts for the stockcar were done by Fineline rapid prototyping in NC using there best resolution avalible at that time and were mold ready. what i was saying is that the “MAkerbot” does not have this fine resolution capability like the profesional services can produce. i probally spent over 1k for the masters for my parts.
Al,
Thanks for the clarification, I misinterpreted your meaing. When your article/thread came out I followed it closely and am waiting for you and Bob to finish the kit. Hopefully I will be building a number of them, however not all at once. The dollars you spent were well worth it in the finished product.
There is a vendor down in central Florida I have been talking to also who can make mold/lost wax ready parts. I was looking to do lost wax brass parts to use as a master for spin casting.
Bob C.
And just a bit over a year later, there seems to be some new technology being used with higher resolution.
(http://cubify.com/resources/images/cube/cube_feature_1_creations_02.jpg)
(http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/thumb/Ultimaker_with_prints.jpg/500px-Ultimaker_with_prints.jpg)
http://www.ultimaker.com/ http://printrbot.com/shop/assembled-printrbot-lc/
jeez Bruce, now you got me thinking…I’m pretty good using AutoCADD in 3D. Would be nice to be able to make whatever part I wanted without having to worry about where or if I can find it.
I have way too many irons in the fire to start something like this
Actually Bruce & Jake there’s a company in Canada that makes the printing heads that you can attach to a CNC Router. I will be starting the build on my 4’x4’ router shortly and this is going to be one of the added accessories besides the router head. I have all the software and computers from my old business and most of the parts ready to go.
I have everything to build a 3D printer in the shop right now. I have Auto-cad 2012 and Artsoft’s Mach 3 program but I don’t have a CAM program yet. I would have it built except that the mini mill that I converted to CNC 4 years ago is still setting here and not made a chip. Maybe I need to send the mill to somebody like Chuck and have him make stuff for me.
If I knew somebody within 300 or so miles of me, I would be more than glad to take to mill to them and let them use it in trade to teach me how to run it. Then I would get the printer built and do the same with it.
Rodney
I’m with you Rodney. I keep thinking about getting a mill, but without an instructor, I think I’d just end up with an expensive paper weight.
Bruce
If I didn’t have the other two mills, I would not converted the mini mill to CNC. Once I got my first mill, I couldn’t live without one now.
I know the Bridgeport that I have now is over kill for 20.3 work, but I have in the back of my head that someday I want to build a live steam
2 1/2" scale K-28.
The HF mini mill is a great little mill to learn on and there is a lot of “how to use a mill” information on the web.
Rodney
Bruce,
You’ll be in good company, lots of people with lots of tools that cost lots of money, but too timid to have a go at it and pick up the skills. BTW I agree it would have been easier to pick up those skills at 16 than it will be at 50 or whatever.
I keep looking on Craigslist for a small mill, because I dont have enough dust tools already, apparently
Hehe. Luckily I’m still fascinated with a tap. 
A die just adds to the charm.
I tried looking for local courses on machining, but there’s no such animal in this area. Maybe one of these days.
These video’s are fun and interesting to watch.
http://techtv.mit.edu/videos/142-machine-shop-1
I’m slowly working my way through them. Parts 1-10 
A mill and lathe are on my someday list as well.
Hey guys,
Running a CNC is made every simple these days because of the software available. If you know how to create parts on a mill or lathe and can use Auto-Cad to draw your parts then you have the skills to run a CNC. I have a software program called VCarve Pro. This software allows you to create your parts in 2D or import them from someone else Cad software. Then you assign the tool you want to perform a certain task like cutting a circle or cutting a grove, and then the software creates the “G” code necessary to run the machine. The Mach 3 that Rodney mentioned is what controls your machine and reads the “G” code to perform the task.
It’s so simple that my 23 year old son was up and running parts in less then 8hrs. The software does all the work. When I worked as a machinist over 25 years ago you had to have a programmer on staff to create the “G” code necessary to create your parts, but not anymore.
Of course the software package is not cheap. I paid over 700.00, 5 years ago and still pay 150.00 when a new version is issued about every two years, but its well worth it.
Chuck
Check this out. Talk about “thinking big”
A giant 3D printer to build houses.
Ralph
http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/sideshow/3d-printer-could-build-house-20-hours-224156687.html
Now that’s just plain scary
