Doug,
if no axle screws then the drive dates from 1993 onwards. This was the sandwich block with the removable lower cover retained by four screws. However, this model was not made after early 1990’s. LGB then concentrated on Lake George & Boulder and dropped the #2017D variant.
Therefore if not a clamshell drive as it should be then the loco has had a later drive transplant. The loco still has the old metal valve gear and rods so I doubt the motor block has been changed.
well, no smoke, the old style plugs, the old style cylinders - it should be fairly old.
(the metalic gear and rods are no good indicator, because even the newest model, made for 2001, has them.)
I’ll add some more pictures on Sunday. It runs like a Swiss (German) watch.
No pictures yet. Can’t find the camera! I know I got pictures last weekend. Can’t be far away! It needs a beeper.
ask the gremlins, where they have put it…
The gremlins were kind. They left it in the bathroom!
So where are the pictures already?
It’s still in the 30s this morning and I don’t think the gremlins warmed up the shop.
I’ll put my jacket on, put my leg brace on, get a hot cup of coffee and head for the shop!
http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/doug_arnold/_forumfiles/tender.jpg
The Stainz has been shot! Well, actually I shot pictures of the bottom of the Stainz and tender. Now to get it apart.
Doug, Bob has improved the website. Ya gotta use those cute little icons above the post box. Us the one that has a tree in it.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/doug_arnold/_forumfiles/tenderbo..jpg)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/doug_arnold/_forumfiles/Stainabot.jpg)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/doug_arnold/_forumfiles/tenderbo..jpg)
I must have really shot them. They open fine if you click on them!
When Bob changes anything on the site I have to figure out a “work around” for the Mac. At this point the Mac is not accepting Bob’s changes. It’s “work around” time!
That’s odd, the first image will post via Bob’s new image insert scheme, but the second one won’t, no matter what.
Bob???
I get a 404 File not found on the second file, that must be the answer. Doug, is the second photo really there?
Steve, I think Bob’s computer has decided to drop the last letter off the name.I haven’t gotten to play with it yet but I think my shortened file names got one character shorter!
I’m currently installing a new threshold and when that’s done I’ll develop the workaround.
It’s usually not hard to make Bob’s computer play nice. The only challenge I might have is I’m using the newest Mac version that just came out last week.
It took a few times but I got the pictures to post!
They’re both clamshells. Early.
HAVE to be screws holding the wheels onto the axles. Big, nickle plated slot head screws.
The “work around” for Macs is hardly that. What Bob did actually makes his computer play nicer with the Mac and is much like what I already do.
I just updated the article in Articles.
i compared your pics to the loco i bought in 1983 (new).
everything is exactly the same, save that mine already got the cable and pin for connecting the smoke stack.
so it should be safe, to say, that your loco is either model 81, or model 82.
so just over 30 years old - that’s nothing for a stainz!
Now I just have to get it apart and service it!
Pull the main rod and eccentrics off. Pull the end blocks (on the engine, one block read and pull the stack, drop out the loop from the front).
I think you have to pull the siderods to clear the valve hanger.
Usually you have to flex a valve gear hanger…some are retained with blocks on the running board you need to remove, drop the block out.
Remove the one screw on the bottom, pull the cylinders up and forward, swinging the valve gear bottom brace down to clear.
Find which side of the block has screws. Look behind the wheels.
Pull those wheels, saving screws and any lockwashers hiden behind them. Retract the brushes and springs so you don’t lose them. Pull the block half towards you off the axles.
There…it’s apart.
That’s from memory.
Probably forgot something.
Pull the motor straight out towards you.
There is probably a ball bearing (single ball) at the end of each end of the motor shaft. Try not to lose them. Internally thrusted replacement mortors don’t need them…original ones do.
Clean all the old grease out. I use lighter fluid, toothbruishes and q-tips. Get the gear teeth and worm clean.
Thed real trick is getting the gears to line up when done.
The reason (for now) you leave the other wheels on is to put the motor in, hold it, rotate around, check the counterweights and crankpins for alignment. Lift the motor, move one tooth at a time and recheck. Insert thrust balls with grease.
When you’ve got the block together, clean the brushes, install along with wheels and siderods.
THEN pull the wheels on the other side for brush cleaning.
