Large Scale Central

LGB Parts: What LGB of America has available for dealers?

So are the tie strips! Didn’t want to lay track anyway!

LGB rail should fit in Aristo’s Euro tie strips just fine.

Victor, I have always had a mix of LGB and Aristocraft (R3/Large Radius) turnouts on my railway, I do not not mind using Aristo if neccessary. But this time I had a damaged LGB R3, and needed an exact replacement to simplify the process, so I purchased one Left and one Right to get me out of trouble, but alas it seems like there are no more.

Wendel,
I ordered a set of LGB F7a motor blocks last October…waited and e-mailed constantly as to when the order would be filled.
I finally gave up and bought a see-through on special from Ridge Road just to get the new motors - I will use the see-through after a paint job as a dummy unit with the sound ‘b’ unit in the middle.
I find getting LGB bits impossible here in Australia - unless you want to re-mortgage the house!!!

In respect to switches, I used Aristo #8. Nothing but trouble…I had to strip down and rebuild every unit and replace the throw with Tenmile switch throws. I don’t know how such a large manufacturer can put a product on the market that simply doesn’t work…

Sum Ting Wong…

spur42 - down under in Oz

Peter, I assume you mean Aristo #6, right?

What things did you have to do to the #6 (other than dump the switch motor, which I completely agree with).

Mine run very nicely. Do you have the earlier models with the abrupt guard rails?

Regards, Greg

Hi Greg,

You are correct - I meant #6 switches.

I don’t know whether the switches are early or late editions, I thought there was only one. I found that the guard rails were far too wide and the wheels hit the frog causing constant derailments. I had to solder a section of HO scale rail inside the guard rails with a lead in at either end to keep the wheels away from the frog. I also had to file the lead in rail to a point as they impacted on the wheels if the train was being diverted.
I also found that the switches were not on one plane and were twisted slightly. This caused the rolling stock to often uncouple and develop a big wobble as they passed over the point. The switch throws were a ‘joke’ and almost never worked.

These switches cost about AU$250 each over here, and I have 6 on my layout…a very costly AU$1500 investment in poor quality merchandise.

I will now be using ‘Outback Turnouts’ as I expand my trackage. They stand by their product (which is top class in the first place).

Spur 42 - down under in Oz.

Greg Elmassian said:
Peter, I assume you mean Aristo #6, right?

Mine run very nicely. Regards, Greg


Mine too. I have a set of three outside for the third season this year in southern New England. All three are set on 6" thick concrete pads and are original, no modifications. One gets drowned each time it rains and occasionally the frog polarity switch will get fouled with mud and stick. Another is under pine trees and the throw mechanism gets fouled with needles. The third is well protected and has always worked like new.

I don’t count the spring in the throw becoming weak after a year in the wet as a problem. I sometimes need to help the points with my fingers, but that doesn’t bother me. When I get around to soldering up some of Bruce’s throws I’ll junk the Aristo boxes. I’ll also get rid of the frog power all together. None of my track power locos are short enough to stall on the frog.

JR

Peter:

If you check out this page on my site: http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=163&Itemid=198
you will see the “old style” guard rails, just a straight piece of rail with the ends cut at an angle.

The newer versions of the #6 have improved flangeways and guard rails with more “ease” of entry.

I need to measure mine, but I have no problems with picking the frog, as I do with unmodified Aristo wide radius turnouts.

One important thing is accurately gauged wheels. What back to back spacing do you use? Gauging all my wheelsets made a big difference in my operation.

Regards, Greg

Hi Greg,

It appears thst I have the ‘old’ verion of the #6 turnout.

Never mind, I have completed the ‘fix’ and they are now working OK. I just wish the agrivation of the ‘fix’ was not necessary…
As I said before…
Sum Ting Wong…
I will check my guage to ensure it is OK…but I have no problems with other layouts.

This weekend I will be attending the ‘Steam In The Hunter’ Steamup (GRITH) in Newcastle New Sousth Wales which is held each year at this time. I am in Queensland so the trip is a full days travel (about 850 klms. from where I live), so I will be offline until next Tuesday (our time).

The GRITH is much like your Diamondhead, but we only have 3 layuouts operating at the one time. It is all steam…but an occasional battery is allowed if nothing is ready to steam…Lots of fun with heaps of exotic locos on display.
Catch you next week…

regards, spur42

Bought 5 each Aristo #6 left and right turnouts.

Opened the first turnout and put a screwdriver to all the screws. Found half the screws loose, 3 of them took more than 1 turn ot or more tighten.

Unit works fine and a easy conversion from the manual control to the LGB switch motor.