They do add some drag. That is why I only powered one truck on each car. I have a small RR so my passenger trains only run three cars each, and I have no grades, so even my smallest switcher locos can pull the train easily.
Ok. Thanks for the information. With my grades, drag is an important concern.
David Maynard said:
Ok. Thanks for the information. With my grades, drag is an important concern.
Me too. I don’t want it going up, but could really use quite a bit going down. Been thinking of some kind of adjustable drag for my cabeese.
Is it too late to suggest another approach? Since you use track power of either fixed (DCC) or variable (DC), you might use a rectifier and an LED driver to power your LEDs. Since you use the LED driver, you are limiting current, not voltage, and can power an unlimited number (within reason) of LEDs.
Pickup power from the track by using Bachmann’s passenger trucks and the LGB carbon contact, which fit pretty well in the Bachmann trucks. You only need one powered truck for an entire train if you run power lines between the cars.
On my RR, which uses variable DC, I can power between three and 20 LEDs with this system. I include a capacitor to store power so the light stay on where the track is momentarily dirty.
I’ve build a dozen or more of these circuits and installed them in the combines of several of my trains. Then I’ve power between three and five LEDs in as many as five cars. Now I even have a printed circuit board (which I can sell to anyone) to make the assembly fool proof (that’s me not you).
The circuits also work with AC, and can be used to take track power and use it to light buildings.
that’s not a different approach Dick, it’s right in line with what has been suggested, just getting the power pickup issue figured out.
You mention just one powered car, but how many wheels are you picking up from? You won’t get consistent operation from just 2 wheels (one axle with 2 carbon brushes). Oh, I see you are using a storage capacitor.
By the way, I have found another manufacturer of LED driver that runs at 10 ma, and also has a 15 ma model, and APPEAR to have resistance to reverse voltage, which the CL2 definitely does not.
I’m doing some testing and will come back with data once I feel it is a solid product.
Greg
Been a little busy with the challenge…
Here is what I’m up against. I cast my own trucks, Hard pewter ( w/silver) so the side frames are conductive.
The wheels are insulated on both sides, so the axles do not conduct to the side frames.
I’m playing with the idea of making the wheels on one side conductive to the axels. I have taken apart a set and I think that drilling a hole thru the insulation, and inserting a brass wire into the hole, and making the wheel conductive to the axel and then to the side frame, where I’ll pick up the power.
Both trucks will have to be Pick ups and each one will pick up from the opposite rail. If this works, am I asking for trouble with derailments?
Your thoughts?
I think it will work, by golly! 
My comment has nothing, Greg, with how one powers your trains. But if he is considering connecting all of the cars together, it just seems to me it is much easier to power all the car lights with one rechargeable battery. Then there is no need for rectifiers, voltage regulators, insulated truck wheels, etc. And with today’s LED’s, a small Li-ion battery goes a LONG time before needing recharging. Just a thought.
Ed
Endless…
batteries, with charger, charging circuit, how to remove is less work than a diode and CURRENT regulator?
the trucks are ALREADY insulated, he is running TRACK POWER.
When is the last time you had to maintain a diode and a 2 terminal current regulator? Never.
But you do have to recharge a battery, and to be safe, recharge outside the car, which means making the unit removable, besides it being visible inside the car?
Again another endless battery vs. track power debate.
Greg
Just to throw some gasoline on smoking embers , the entire circuit I use costs less than $15 for parts and the printed circuit board. I do use a single axle, but the capacitor stores electricity to prevent flicker.
The last time I bought a battery charger, it cost about $20 and I had to buy rechargeable batteries which will eventually not recharge.
Your mileage may vary, but this IS what I like!
Have a good day and a Happy New Year!
P.S Greg, keep me informed about this newer LED driver. I like the older ones, but am willing to try ones that won’t blow up if wired backward. This one would make backup light wiring much easier.
Greg, why do you have to make a war out of the issue whenever someone mentions powering ANYTHING with a battery? As I pointed out, my comments had NOTHING to do with how your power the trains, whether it is track power or not. Sorry if I seem to upset you.
Ed
OK GUYS! I do not want to deal with batteries… NOT an option at this time. With DCC I have lots of power, all the time, even when stopped on a siding.
I’m looking for a “Power System” that I can put into a car, once, and be done with it. Then it just works , every time I put the car on the rails. I don’t want to worry that it’s been too long since I last charged the batteries, or any thing else. Then the grand kids show up, I want to be running trains in less then ten minutes, not fidgeting with batteries. They may be the way you like to run, and thats OK, but not for me.
I can live with the occasions when my friends bring their DC units over to run on variable power.
I think that I have a solution for my track pick ups, and will work thru that and then onto the lights. The Mechanical i’m good at, the electronics not so good.
No war Ed, it’s a track power thread, it has been stated as such, and common courtesy would dictate that you respect the wishes of the OP
Also if you REALLY take all of THIS situation into account and list up the pro’s and con’s, batteries are not optimal here.
In addition, your accusation is false, I don’t attack whenever a battery is mentioned, I “attack” when a thread has been clearly restricted to power from the track, and people come up with battery solutions when they are not thought out, or clearly not the best solution.
Remember, whatever is best for your situation is NOT necessarily the best for the OTHER guy.
Dave, I apologize, and won’t derail your thread again.
Regards, Greg
My apologies to you, Dave. I overlooked where you said in your original post that you wanted to power your lights with track power. I am sorry I derailed things. I was not trying to make an issue of anything. I know some folks who power their lights with batteries even though they power their engines with track power. I don’t believe either way is superior, it all depends on our personal preferences. Since you have already decided this issue, I am sure you’ll have a good solution that will work great for you, and I apologize for muddying the issue. That was never my intent.
Ed
Greg at Al, where do you normally source your CL2 and other electronic components? I used to get my stuff from Hossfeldt. Since they were almost local, the stuff was usually here in a day or two. It appears that they have closed.
Digikey most often, good prices fast shipment. My company is an R&D company and makes a lot of prototypes, so we buy from them often. Mouser is a second choice, very similar company.
I find that 10 ma is often enough current, and depending on how many lights you use, you may want the lower current. I like mine bright at night, so they can also be seen at dusk, but I’m sure I’m brighter than prototype.
I bought the CL2’s 50 at a time, to get a price break.
Greg