Large Scale Central

In-ko-pah Railroad: Brick building

Modeling
#21

Time for another update:

I needed a tool to press the mortar lines into the edges of the window openings, so I just took an old #11 blade and ground it flat:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8676c/IMG_8676c.jpg)

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8663c/IMG_8663c.jpg)

I also carved more wear into some of the bricks. The loose brick was created by gluing a thin wedge to the face of the scribed brick:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8706/IMG_8706.jpg)

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8710/IMG_8710.jpg)

The side walls of this building would have been made of cheaper material such as rubble stone, so I scribed stone texture into the upper portion of the walls. To see a step-by-step of this technique, check out my previous build here:

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1.html

On the east wall, only a small portion of the wall will be visible above the previous building:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8697/IMG_8697.jpg)

My next building will probably be only a single story, so I had to texture a large portion of the west wall of this building:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8730c/IMG_8730c.jpg)

I added stone lintels to the upstairs windows. The thin ones at the bottom of the windows are resin castings. I had hoped to use existing castings for the large ones above the windows, but they were a bit too tall. So I just carved some new ones out of Sintra PVC specifically for this building:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8745/IMG_8745.jpg)

The bottom of the front wall wall is stone, so I glued on some of the resin castings I’d made for my previous building. On the right, the castings have been cut to fit the sloping sidewalk:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8743c/IMG_8743c.jpg)

I also glued some castings to the foundation. Eventually all the “stone” parts of the building will be painted the same sandstone color as the previous building:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8719/IMG_8719.jpg)

The front and side walls were glued together and the subfloor installed. Then I discovered that the foundation is slightly non-square, preventing the building from fitting up tight against the sidewalk. No big deal, I’ll just fill the gap later:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8741/IMG_8741.jpg)

Here’s how it all looks so far, with the building temporarily in position on the layout:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8731c/IMG_8731c.jpg)

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8735c/IMG_8735c.jpg)

That’s all for now, more later. Enjoy!

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#22

I forgot to include this…

Here’s a small, “quick and dirty” test piece I did last year when I was first considering using Sintra to simulate brick:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_5900c/IMG_5900c.jpg)

As you can see it looks a lot better after it’s painted.

#23

Now if ya made some molds of these walls, and cast them in resin or sumthin’, ya could sell 'em to guys like us who can’t model for you-know-what. :slight_smile:

Beautiful work!

#24

I’ve actually considered doing that, but my mold-making skills aren’t up to commercial quality. Also, it sounds too much like work. :slight_smile:

#25

If I only had half the skills you do Ray, I would be a happy man. Excellent work.

#26

Is that blood?

#27

Ric Golding said:

Is that blood?

LOL, no it’s red automotive spot putty. I used it to repair a few unwanted scratches and misplaced mortar lines.

#28

Ray Dunakin said:

Ric Golding said:

Is that blood?

LOL, no it’s red automotive spot putty. I used it to repair a few unwanted scratches and misplaced mortar lines.

Ha ha, now we know how Ray does such good work. He puts his blood, sweat, and tears into it…literally!!!

#29

Hey Ray, I was wondering how you would handle corners–where walls meet–with your brickwork. You have two surfaces supposedly butting up against each other and thus, ya got a seam. So then what? Fill the gap?

The Pipers say they bevel the edges of their stuff, but then they are dealing with 1/2 inch stock while yours is?? 1/4 in. ? BTW, Ross told me the reason they deal only in 1/2 in. is that 1/4 in. is too thin to work with–for their purposes.

In case I haven’t said, I am thinking of trying your stuff and your method on my garage project, although it will have to wait until we come back from the land of aloha.

#30

Joe Rusz said:

Hey Ray, I was wondering how you would handle corners–where walls meet–with your brickwork. You have two surfaces supposedly butting up against each other and thus, ya got a seam. So then what? Fill the gap?

Funny you should mention this, as that’s something I had a little trouble with as you’ll see in my next post. I have to undo the mess I made before can post a solution.

Ideally, the best method would be to mitre the joints, but I don’t have the tools to do that.

#31

I’ve finished the roof and rear wall, using the same design as described on my previous build. The rear wall is removable for access to the interior, and is not detailed because it will be positioned against a cliff:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8757c/IMG_8757c.jpg)

I also built two box-like structures to contain the interior details. These slide out of the main structure:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8759c/IMG_8759c.jpg)

I had planned to use resin “stone” castings over the window and door arches. However, when I laid them out on the model, it just didn’t look right to me. So I went with Plan B – brick arches. These were made from 1mm thick Sintra PVC, scribed, cut to shape and glued into place:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8753/IMG_8753.jpg)

I’ve started building the frames for the windows and door. So far only the most basic part of the frames has been done, using .080" x .125" strips of styrene. There are still more details to be added. Here they are temporarily fitted into the building:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8763c/IMG_8763c.jpg)

Because this building is supposed to be rundown and weathered, I scribed some woodgrain into the styrene strips prior to cutting them to fit. The curved part was made by bending one of the strips around a small saucepan, then heating it by holding it above the electric burner on our stove:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8765/IMG_8765.jpg)

Here’s a shot of the building temporarily in position on the foundation:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8767c/IMG_8767c.jpg)

I also screwed something up… My first attempt at scribing the bricks at the forward edge of the side wall was a complete disaster. The red putty used to smooth the joint crumbles when scribed, and the joints tend to cause the scribing tool to go off course. I think it would have worked better if I’d used an epoxy putty. Also, I goofed up the spacing of the mortar lines. I’ll have to put some more thought into this before making another attempt.

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8772/IMG_8772.jpg)

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#32

Your project is making good progress Ray. I admire your skills, straight lines such as you are doing are difficult to say the least.

I will contine to watch this thread. Thank goodness for the modellig threads such as yours, certainly interesting and hopefully informative for many.

#33

Ray, your building is lookin’ good anyway. Couple more questions though:

When you’re using your handy brick-making jig, do you kinda push it along through the Sintra–from one end of the board to the other–or do you lay it down and kinda pound or press on it? I’m asking because I don’t think I’m capable of making a jig like yours and wonder if I can just use a tool or something to just scribe the brick joints.

What does the surface of your Sintra look like? Is it smooth or kinda coarse like the Precision Board the Pipers sell?

What was the filler/putty you used that cracked? I’m asking because I have a tube of Nitro Stan gray automotive body putty, which I’m using to fill the corner joints on the two chimneys for my hotel. They’ll merely be sanded, not carved, so I’m not too worried. Still, it would be helpfull to know.

BTW, Kevin Strong wrote that he uses plumber’s joint?? putty, that you knead, apply, then sand, etc when it dries and hardens. Would that work for you?

#34

Joe Rusz said:

Ray, your building is lookin’ good anyway. Couple more questions though:

When you’re using your handy brick-making jig, do you kinda push it along through the Sintra–from one end of the board to the other–or do you lay it down and kinda pound or press on it? I’m asking because I don’t think I’m capable of making a jig like yours and wonder if I can just use a tool or something to just scribe the brick joints.

What does the surface of your Sintra look like? Is it smooth or kinda coarse like the Precision Board the Pipers sell?

What was the filler/putty you used that cracked? I’m asking because I have a tube of Nitro Stan gray automotive body putty, which I’m using to fill the corner joints on the two chimneys for my hotel. They’ll merely be sanded, not carved, so I’m not too worried. Still, it would be helpfull to know.

BTW, Kevin Strong wrote that he uses plumber’s joint?? putty, that you knead, apply, then sand, etc when it dries and hardens. Would that work for you?

Joe, I push the end of the double-bladed tool into the Sintra, and pull it towards me. You could use a simple metal scribe to do one line at a time – that’s what I did on my first test piece.

The Sintra has a smooth surface. Very slightly pebbled if you looked at it closely, but definitely not coarse, grainy or pitted.

The red stuff is Bondo automotive spot putty.

#35

Hey Ray, because I thought it might be quicker to buy Sintra locally, I called a vendor down here and asked them what a 4 x 8 foot piece of 6 mm cost. Checked it against the outfit you’ve been dealing with, which is based in NY, and the price–$104 and change–is exactly the same. Do ya think there’s some price fixing at work here? And everywhere else in the world.

BTW, in studying the photo of your latest building site, I noticed an empty lot on the next terrace. So what are ya gonna put there?

Looking at that photo and others once again leaves me amazed that you hauled all those rocks into your backyard. Man, that’s a lot of stone!

Now stop reading and get back to work! :slight_smile:

#36

Wow Ray ,great work ! I love the staired sidewalk you have there . Will the buildings be left out to the elements ?

#37

I’ve finished the doors and windows for the ground floor. The doors were built up from strips of .020" styrene. although it’s not visible in the photo, the doors and frames all have simulated wood grain. The door handles will be added after the doors are painted:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8776c/IMG_8776c.jpg)

(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_2_files/Media/IMG_8779c/IMG_8779c.jpg)

.

Joe, there will be another building to the right of this one, and at least one more beyond that.

Mike, these structures are all left out 24/7.

#38

I’ve been chicken to put such heavy detail on my structures which also are left outside 24/7. I’m amazed that such beautiful and delicately detailed buildings could hold up so well.

I’m learning a lot from your detailed posts so I may have to reassess my minimalistic approach at least a bit for outdoor structures. I also really like your “drawer” idea for interiors. It should work well for me since access on the rear of most of my benchwork is for maintenance only and not generally viewed or needed for operation.

Your latest creation is really looking sharp!

#39

The most delicate detail on this building is probably the muntins on the windows. But the whole window gets glued to the glass, so they’ll have plenty of support.

#40

That “as always” kicksass Ray!

The spot putty can do wonders too!

Had to edit for page 3!