Large Scale Central

I bought a new train....I think

General Discussion
#21

Here are a few quick shots of the stock cars that came with the engine:

I really wish companies would make it so their own cars will couple to there locomotive!

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC09101_zps645bd1cc.jpg)

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC09103_zpsd6147165.jpg)

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC09104_zps6dc5b929.jpg)

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC09105_zpsa510017d.jpg)

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC09102_zps27b9a230.jpg)

Again, just quick observations…
It’s nice that the cars include a stock knuckle coupler, along with box mounted couplers, as well as hook & loop couplers…just wish the stock knuckle coupler matched up to there own engine!!

I think the quality of the cars are decent, much better then the AMS/AML 1/32 cars I received a month or so ago…but still not as nice as the quality of the AML 1:20.3 stock & box cars. They to me are the nicest of the lot, better wheels, better trucks, better detail through out.

But for a case of free stock cars along with the engine at half price, these will be just fine!

#22

Lou Luczu said:

Could you take a picture of the tool kit? Mine did not come with extra screws or tools.
Lou

Here you go Lou!

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC09106_zps2b720b99.jpg)

Not sure if the screws are just extra or not, I didn’t find a mention of them in the manual…I also have NO idea what the other (2) black pieces are for…

#23

The socket and allen wrench I would have to look closely. The black things might be smoke stack extensions that go inside. The boiler front opens to see that, but I can’t reach it right now.

#24

Vinnie,

I was shocked to see the mismatch in the couplers! My rolling stock is ALL AMS 1/20.3 and Accucraft 1/20.3 locomotives. None of them show that kind of mismatch. Sorry to hear about the “quality issue” with the AML cars. I would call Cliff at Accucraft and do a little complaining if I were you. Quality and mismatch should not be an issue with this manufacturer!

#25

Gary, I think the car and loco will match up fine once I change over to the box mounted coupler they provided.
It’s just that sometimes I would rather stuff just work without modification! I know the box couplers will look better and should work fine on my rail road with 8’ diameter curves, but, the normal knuckle coupler that comes through on the car should at least line up with there own loco!

#26

Lou Luczu said:

The socket and allen wrench I would have to look closely. The black things might be smoke stack extensions that go inside. The boiler front opens to see that, but I can’t reach it right now.

Maybe tomorrow morning when my own eyes can focus better I will take a closer look at the engine and see if anything pops out as being what the screws are for.

#27

Vincent D’Agostino said:
Gary, I think the car and loco will match up fine once I change over to the box mounted coupler they provided. It’s just that sometimes I would rather stuff just work without modification! I know the box couplers will look better and should work fine on my rail road with 8’ diameter curves, but, the normal knuckle coupler that comes through on the car should at least line up with there own loco!

Vinnie,

My bad. Now that I look at your photo closer, I see that indeed the coupler is “talgo” or truck mounted. STILL, no excuse for that mismatch, IMHO.

#28

It turns out that the AML K4 has the same coupler mismatch.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jerry_mccolgan/accucraft/K4%20Coupler3a.jpg)

In my case I was able to resolve it by putting LGB hook & loop and LGB knuckle couplers on the AML cars.

The LGB couplers fit the AML cars without any problems and the LGB knuckle coupler made a much better contact (but not perfect) with the K4.

Jerry

#29

Hey Jerry,

Does your engine have return/centering springs on the front coupler? Mine does not…wondering if they just fell out, or if they are a after thought…

#30

Hi Vinny,

I had to look - my 0-6-0 couplers are the same as yours. Kadee type springs on the tender coupler and so springs (floppy coupler) on the front.

I then checked the AML K4 and its tender’s coupler has no springs either (no front coupler on the K4). Perhaps the 0-6-0 tender’s coupler is an improved version.

Jerry

#31

Since I only use Kadees I would have a hard time making up for that mismatch. Makes me wonder who made the cars.

#32

Another disturbing find that I made last night while changing the couplers over on the stock cars to the body mounted ones provided with the car…The trucks on the car hit the coupler box drastically decreasing the turning radius on the car.
I would imagine it will work on my R3 curves (didn’t have a chance to take it outside and try it), but I know they don’t work on R2 curves, I had some in my basement that I could try with the car and they are a definite no-go.

#33

I would give them a call today.

#34

Doug Arnold said:
Since I only use Kadees I would have a hard time making up for that mismatch. Makes me wonder who made the cars.

Hi Doug,

I suspect that with the AML Kadee type body mounts the stock car coupler will match the height of the 0-6-0 tender’s coupler height. I have not tried it since I prefer LGB couplers.

Jerry

#35

Vincent D’Agostino said:

The trucks on the car hit the coupler box drastically decreasing the turning radius on the car.

Hi Vinny,

I suspect that if you remove any couplers from the truck tangs and then rotate the trucks to where the coupler tangs are toward the center of the car, you may have enough clearance for the trucks to clear the coupler mounts.

I looked at them but have not tried this on these cars but I have done it with other cars in the past.

Jerry

#36

Jerry McColgan said:

Vincent D’Agostino said:

The trucks on the car hit the coupler box drastically decreasing the turning radius on the car.

Hi Vinny,

I suspect that if you remove any couplers from the truck tangs and then rotate the trucks to where the coupler tangs are toward the center of the car, you may have enough clearance for the trucks to clear the coupler mounts.

I looked at them but have not tried this on these cars but I have done it with other cars in the past.

Jerry

I have the trucks turned around so the truck mounted tang faces inward, it’s the truck wheels that hit the coupler box.

#37

Vincent,

Sounds like you got a real “deal” (read: headache) with these free cars!

#38

Doug Arnold said:
Since I only use Kadees I would have a hard time making up for that mismatch. Makes me wonder who made the cars.

Doug,

AML Locomotives are built to scale 1/29th, therefore they are set up for scale height couplers.

Most people who buy these prefer that, The 060 and K4 mate up fine out of the box with Kadees.

All AML rolling stock comes with truck mounted couplers for those who wish to run that style

coupler, But they also include a Kadee style body mount box and coupler for bolting on to there cars for a more scale type Railroading and work with all there AML Engines.

I never changed the Factory couplers on my K4s or 060s because they work fine out of the box with Kadees.

I just ordered a NYC Dryfuss Hudson from AML, and assume the coupler heights will be the same as there other offerings.

P.S. When adding body mount couplers you must turn the diecast trucks around on AML cars and

on plastic trucks you must cut off the coupler tang for the truck to swivel freely.

Also when using kadee style box on 10ft or smaller curves, Most people and myself included just put a small notch in the box with a dremal tool were the wheel touch’s it to make it go around a little tighter curve. Just common sense once you get into it.

I only notched a few cars for special runs as I almost never run anything on less than 10 ft Dia curves. I personally like the bigger is better rule.

Nick

#39

Nick,

Vinny said it was the wheels that were hitting the coupler box.

#40

Joe Zullo said:

Nick,

Vinny said it was the wheels that were hitting the coupler box.

Joe I just edited my post look again and you will see the answer…:slight_smile:

Nick