Large Scale Central

How do I regauge this?

Modeling
#21

TOC and Barry know the answer to this.

My guess: “Back-to-Back” is a flat measurement, easy to read with a gauge or caliper, and critical for proper wheel tracking through the guard (or check) rail and past the frog.

If the wheel flange and profile are close, the (within BtB tolerances) wheel set should work well enough on a G1MRA or NMRA 45mm (1.771") gauge track.

I welcome any corrections or further info.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit: added “past the” and “(within BtB tolerances)”

#22

Ahhhhh,
The picture clears things up. Never had one of those fancy gauges.
Didn’t realize the back to back was the important measurement.
Ralph

#23

Hmmmmm. Another hole in my education gets plugged. :stuck_out_tongue:

#24

Mike,
I’ve never had to quarter any drivers. Do you have a technique you can recommend?

#25
Ralph Berg said:
Ahhhhh, The picture clears things up. Never had one of those fancy gauges. Didn't realize the back to back was the important measurement. Ralph
Hardly a fancy gauge. It's under $10 and made by Aristo-Craft. Too bad they don't use it on their locomotives. Maybe I should send them one. ;)
#26

OK. I THINK I’m done with this set. Here’s a before picture I had:

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/EBT/AristoPacific/IMG_6021.JPG)

Now, an after:

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/EBT/AristoPacific/IMG_6034.JPG)

I’ve ground down the flanges, as well, so they are closer to the Sierra Valley Wheel. Though it may be hard to see. :wink: I wish I had an earlier close up showing how clunky those flanges are, but this is how it looks now:

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/EBT/AristoPacific/IMG_6031.JPG)

The back to back looks good.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/EBT/AristoPacific/IMG_6032.JPG)

It may be hard to tell, but I’ve also rounded the flanges. Now, I just need one more driver. :wink: Well, and next, I have to get the quartering right.

#27

Simply adjusting (repositioning the relative wheel positions on the axle) the axles to correct ‘back to back’ measurement is only part of the solution. By adjusting the overly thick flanges then you are solving the other part of the problem.

If only the wheels are repositioned then you come up against the possibility that the overly thick flanges will pick the guideways and frogs through switches. As no manufacturer has a ‘standard’ to which he builds (even Aristo admit that the gauge is not designed to work on their own equipment) then wheel ‘back to back’ measurement is really a compromise when flanges are too thick.

One rolling stock manufacturer makes wheels with overly thick flanges and I find that the back to back must be compromised to ensure reliable running through switchwork.

#28
Bruce Chandler said:
Ralph Berg said:
Ahhhhh, The picture clears things up. Never had one of those fancy gauges. Didn't realize the back to back was the important measurement. Ralph
Hardly a fancy gauge. It's under $10 and made by Aristo-Craft. Too bad they don't use it on their locomotives. Maybe I should send them one. ;)
I've seen them. I forgot to add the :) after gauges. I've heard the loco's aren't the only thing they don't use them on. Ralph
#29

Bruce Chandler said:
This is how it looked originally.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/thejoat/Locomotives/EBT/AristoPacific/IMG_6014.JPG)

Notice the gauge is too narrow. Now, after grinding backs of both wheels, the gauge is correct.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/thejoat/Locomotives/EBT/AristoPacific/IMG_6022.JPG)

Nice work! I’m interested in how you ground them down? I actually had that same tool on my line this weekend (track only). I was surprised at what I found gauge wise considering how well the equiptment runs on it under clean track power.

#30

How did I grind them down? Well, I’ll probably get yelled at for doing it the craziest way possible. :wink:

First, I soldered some leads to the motor - and connected these to my power supply. I put the motor end of the the block in a vise, with the wheels facing up.

Next, I cranked up the power to full speed. The Dremel was applied as the wheels spun - it was loaded with a cutting head. The wheels get pretty hot and the heat loosens the screws, so every now and then I have to screw the wheel back in place. In other words, this takes quite a bit of time. The floor was covered with lots of itty-bitty metal shavings.

A final pass was done by holding various files against the wheel - this is how I rounded the flange and got a smoother finish to the backs of the wheels.

All in all, it was pretty crude. :wink: And now they’ll demand my modeling license back! :smiley: :smiley:

#31

Without a machine shop I can’t think of a better way to do it…:wink:

#32

Neat solution Bruce, hope you had some eye protection on!

#33

I have eye protection every time I’m in the shop. :smiley: A few years back, I bought safety glasses that have built in bi-focals! It’s the only way to work and see now that I’m getting older. They really help with the close up work.

#34

That’s a great solution. I was wondering how you did it.

Quartering: As I understand it–and I’m sure someone will let me know if I’m wrong–it’s just this:

On one side position the 3 drive wheels so that the pins for the connecting rod are all at 6 o’clock. On the other side, position the 3 drive wheels so that the connecting pins are all at either 3 or 9 o’clock.

I think that’s it.

#35

I understand the concept of quartering, but I know that they sell special tools to assist in the smaller scales. I was just wondering if anyone had any easy technique to get it accurate.

#36

Bruce,
Great fix nice solution. How does the tread width on those wheels compare to some of your others?

Dave

#37

Thanks.

The wheels are pretty close. The Sierra Valley wheels are .248"…the drivers .292"…though not all of the drivers are the same. :wink:

I’m pretty sure I won’t be able to tell the difference when it’s out running around the layout. :smiley:

#38
Bruce Chandler said:
How did I grind them down? Well, I'll probably get yelled at for doing it the craziest way possible. ;)

First, I soldered some leads to the motor - and connected these to my power supply. I put the motor end of the the block in a vise, with the wheels facing up.

Next, I cranked up the power to full speed. The Dremel was applied as the wheels spun - it was loaded with a cutting head. The wheels get pretty hot and the heat loosens the screws, so every now and then I have to screw the wheel back in place. In other words, this takes quite a bit of time. The floor was covered with lots of itty-bitty metal shavings.

A final pass was done by holding various files against the wheel - this is how I rounded the flange and got a smoother finish to the backs of the wheels.

All in all, it was pretty crude. :wink: And now they’ll demand my modeling license back! :smiley: :smiley:


I pretty much figured that. I feel we “are” crude being scratch modelers and I’m not licensed, so who cares about that badge?
With that said we tend to analyze and improve on the basic product which in many cases is excellent for mass produced stuff and people with lots of $ to spend…the automobile industry has the same issues …fantastic work without getting anal! It works and so be it are my thoughts!
:wink:

#39

On quartering, I just eyeball them, I did use the Dremel some on the holes on the rods, so there is some slop in them.

#40

Aaawwww… Jerry’s feeling guilty and fessin’ up !
:wink:
What’s wrong with a Dremel? Amazing tool!