This information about a $20, 1:32, GP-35 came to me via a private forum, but the author said to share it. That’s $20, not $200. But buyer beware: you get what you pay for - although you’ll have to agree it is cheap.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/sylvester/_forumfiles/GP35.jpg)
Wayne Gunn, Palm Springs says: “I just received a pair of New Ray GP35s. �Not bad for $19.95 ($33 each with shipping and tax.) Rough measurements, checking the MR Diesel Cyclopedia and comparing to my GHB GP-9 and its measurements in the ‘bible’. It rides about 3/8 too high referring to the walkway and the coupler pocket. The hood width is good, hood height looks ok above the walkway, might be slightly too short after lowering. Overall length is 1/2 inch too short… looks like the end “porches” are the problem, but general appearance would be ok after lowering. Refreshing after the Lionel, close but wrong in the other direction-- the truck wheelbase is about 1/8” too short. If the body is lowered 3/8", the fuel tank will be too low, but may have enough clearance to run. �It would look better with thinner air reservoirs. The plastic spoked wheels are a nice touch, as are the horns embedded halfway into the cab roof. �LOL Amazingly it has see- through screens with fan blades which are hardly noticeable. �I wish they’d put that effort somewhere else. Typically, the handrails are double thickness, but also the thick stantions are about 1/8 too short. As mentioned before- it needs paint. �The gray looks fine, but the yellow is translucent because it is cast in yellow plastic. Still, it is amazing what Chinese ‘slave labor’ can do for �$20 retail. �I would have gladly paid much more for one like this with the correct dimensions. Feel free to forward this info and pix. Thanks,� wayne gunn palm springs, california
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/sylvester/_forumfiles/GPs35.jpg)
Then Wayne added: It looks pretty good lowered. I agree, SP would be good, or solid gray or black like a leased unit, it would distract from the 0.090" railings (or replace them) and a single color would not draw all the attention of UP yellow, esp. translucent. Lowering looks pretty easy, with a flat sheet of plastic to replace the frame which is like a pan that dips down too low. The plastic wheels are real close to 40", and the “bearings” are inside - just slots in the block. The axles don’t protrude through the wheels. One could drill out the backs of the side frames to clear your axles- possibly adding a real bushing, but the journal is not exactly in the center of the wheel. I guess you have flush wheels in 40 inch? Or use an MTH F unit for the below-deck parts as you say, if you want to run them as opposed to a pretty cool stationary lash-up parked on a helper pocket. To do: Lower with new frame cut off fuel tank (part of frame) and reattach change wheels or add MTH power blocks rebuild railings rebuild pilots paint, lettering window glazing grab irons couplers Thanks, wayne gunn audio village palm springs, california