I am assuming that PVC is PVC. That the same adhesive to glue PVC pipe and PVC “lumber” will glue PVC foam. Also I am sure I could google this but do they make sheet PVC like they do styrene? So that I canmake lap siding and trim pieces and glue them to the PVC?
Yes, I use regular old plumbing PVC cement to assemble buildings made out of PVC board.
Well I think I owe Bruce. I looked at my supplier (Laird Plastics) and they list all sorts of PVC products. They have rod, sheets, foam, etc. I like that. Knowing that I can have various types of materials that can be glued up with PVC cement will solve this issue and mean I can leave it outside.
Thanks Bruce. Now I just need to break out my wallet.
I was looking at this closer. Is the PVC sheet what Ray is using that he calls Sintra? I am looking at my supplier and they list it under PVC but I see a label that says Sintra
Sintra is just a brand name but yes. Honestly the best success I have had with structures outside has been the plain old pink insulation foam board and it’s cheap. Although some of my viaduct is PVC board.
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I love that stuff rooster. But was not sure how it would work for the buildings. I was considering that also. Its what I was thinking of when I was thinking about using foam as the core and styrene as a skin
The thicker the better. 1/4" will warp in the sun if you dont have cross-supports and braces.
I do think I like the idea of the PVC foam. They have sheets as thick as .750. I think that would be great. Now let me ask this since I have never worked with it.
I assume it can be scribed easy enough to simulate tongue and groove. What about milling it with a dado blade on angle to make simulated lap siding. Would it me smooth or pitted like the Box Store pvc boards are after you cut them?
Or should I buy the foam and a sheet of thin sheet materiel and glue on strips to form the lap. Same really goes for adding battens. I am thinking I need to buy the 1/2 or 3/4 foam and then some thin sheet materiel to make battens and lap siding and glue them on
I hit send before I saw your post. Do you think 1/2" as the main structure would be sufficient? I can also add cross bracing as well. Interiors wont be modeled.
I scribed the PVC I build the ore bins from, then stained it with minwax stain. Came out okish
I think that looks great Bob. Is that all PVC? Because everything about that is what I want to achieve. I have no expectation beyond that. Or are you putting real wood over the PVC. I am looking at the “dimensional lumber” that makes up the frame work.
I thought the thickest they had was 12mm but I found 19mm thick
The beams are either cedar or redwood, I dont remember offhand. The main structure is all 3/4" PVC board.
How did you adhere the wood to the PVC?
I used 3 mm and 6 mm pvc sheets. The 3 mm is MUCH easier to cut with a knife. I never scribed it nor did anything else with it. If it’s a big sheet, you probably want to reinforce it a bit - I used some 1" wide pieces glued perpendicular to the big sheet.
When mixing building materials (such at wood and PVC) I liked to use E-6000 adhesive. If the joint would ever see sunlight, I used the black stuff as it is UV protected, otherwise the clear stuff.
can Lexan be used for buildings? I was given two 36 x 32, 1/4 thick sheets. Not sure if this can be used for outdoor buildings…
Don’t know why not. I have never used it
Scott,
Yes it can but it does not like to lay flat so I would not use it for a roof. Side walls are ok.
thanks for the info!!
