Large Scale Central

Hecla Mine, Burke Idaho

So I just about have the Burke finished. As I complete that I really want to get going on the Hecla complex. I have been day dreaming with Fusion and adding windows and doors and details to the entire complex so I can get a visual of what I want and how many and of what types of doors and windows I will need to print as well as developing other things to print like the saw. But here is the computer rendition almost done enough. I still have to mess with designing the office building which I have been unable to find any decent views of. The only reason I even know it exists is the Sandborn maps.

I bought a new bottle of Titebond 3 and a small notched trowel/card thing so I can try lamenating the .020 styrene sheet to the 1" pink foam board as Eric Mueller has suggested and said adheres well. I am going to do a small test panel and see the results but if it holds as well as Eric says this will be the main basis for at least the large building facade.

1 Like

I glued my lumber load to the blue foam on my center beam car, and its very difficult to break that bondhttps://largescalecentral.com/t/lumber-load-for-centerbeams/82987

Devon, here are some more pics of the swing saw…

1 Like

Ray,

Thanks a lot. I have already started designing it. Much better for what I am wanting. The other saw was a neat design but even as I was building it I was skeptical that it was what would be found in a timber shop. This saw is much more in line with what I figured. And these additional pictures will really help. I think this will end up looking nice and where I was going to put it on a back wall I think both from a display stand point and also what was likely the case I will put it toward the open front where it can be seen and where large timbers could be more easily managed. Another thing that makes sense is this extends closer to the ground. Which I can see as being more likely for timber forming. so they wouldn’t have to get large timbers off the ground just to cut them.

This is EXACTLY the information I was hoping to get and yet again another reason I love this group.

1 Like

Thanks to Ray’s pictures, I think this is way more in line with what it should be.

and the way it will look in the timber forming shed

Timber Forming

1 Like

I think I am ready to start some of the actual modeling. I have a lot of stuff to print and then get to work on cutting and gluing up the various foam/styrene panels so I can start assembling the buildings. I finished up much of the details that I will need. The latest is the parts to complete the Timber forming shed. Since I have a belt driven swing saw I needed a way to turn the belt. So a ceiling mounted shaft and belt pulleys was needed.

and a little vertical steam engine to power it. Steam will be piped in from the main steam plant which is in the main building of the real mine as it will be hypothetically in mine.

But enough virtual modeling for now. Time to get to work on some actual modeling.

1 Like

Devon
Are you planning on using 1" 1.5" or 2" foam as the core? And how are you planning on cutting it without making a mess? Hot foam knife?

My plan is to use 1" pink foam. I have used saw in the past but its messy. Since I am going to be doing a lot of it I am thinking slicing it with either a razor blade or breaking down and buying a hot knife.

How soon till you think it will be finished?

No faster than my 10+ year T-D Feeds project… :joy:

I noticed the other day that my smart charger had an option for a hot knife. Not sure how I’d make said hot knife for the charger but it was interesting that it was listed as an option.

I’d really like to say by Sep. But I have given up on dealines

Devon,
A method of cutting extruded foam that works well for me is using a 3 inch putty knife with a fairly stiff blade and sharpening one side/edge of it to a knife blade edge. Then using a level for the straight edge, the thickness of the level helps you keep the blade vertical. Make several passes keeping the blade tight to the side of the level. Biggest advantage, no fumes or mess to lean up.

As for keeping walls flat, I have found that even 1 inch extruded foam has a tendency to cup or warp. I always use 1/2 X 3/4 bracing on the insides wherever possible.

1 Like

I have been using my bandsaw, with a shop vac attached! Not very clean but it’s quick!

Rick,

I like that idea. I was trying to think of some sort of knife that would have a wide flat blade just as you are suggesting for the exact reasons you suggest. Never even crossed my mind to sharpen a putty knife. I will most definitely give that a try.

As to bracing the inside I think it would always be advisable to but some bracing in. And foam is relatively cheap so why not. At least on larger flat walls. The nice thing about the main hoist house (largest of the buildings) it will only be a flat and not a full building. It will be made from two 1" foam boards laminated together to give it the distinctive outline/appearance without having the entire structure. This is a space saving measure as much as anything.

Hecla Hoist House

You don’t have to say what year…

Just use the second layer of foam around the edges then you have a recessed area to place the bracing.

I’ve used an electric kitchen knife.

2 Likes

Rick (and anyone else),

I am trying to wrap my head around what you are suggesting. Maybe I need to be a little more clear or maybe I am not picking up what you are laying down. So in my picture (ignoring the part that sticks out at 90 degrees and looking only at the big flat part) I have this design in CAD as two 1" thick pieces of foam lamented to one another into basically a solid 2" thick block of foam. The reason for doing it in two 1" sheets instead of a single 2" sheet is to get the relief of the two layers without a lot of awkward cutting. Also what this doesn’t depict in the picture is that on the bottom back side it will have to fit over the backer on my bench work. My bench is in such a way that it is a “box” that is 3.5" deep with a screen mesh bottom. So this building will be going against the house and it will need to have a cut out in the back to allow for that 3.5" depth of the box.

So in my thinking by making it out of two 1" sheets I can not only accomplish the cut out on the back side but also then allow for the staggered roof profile where the hoist is. Does this make sense? Will I run afoul? What if I were to make the back sheet into three sheets (vertically) instead of just one and then run two pieces of 3/4 X 1" PVC or even cedar horizontally across the entire thing as bracing?

This building is 60" long and only 2" thick in overall profile (ignoring the piece jutting out). It really makes sense to me to make it from flat sheets instead of a bunch of pieces and then trying to add internal bracing. Now for the record I am only referring to this specific application. All other normal size and shaped buildings can and will be made in traditional “box” construction and I can and will add internal bracing.

What I don’t want to do is head down the wrong path from the start since this is a pretty gigantic piece, only to have it no work and need to be redone.

Doc,

How messy is that. I have one that is serrated. I also think I might have an old electric fillet knife somewhere but it also is serrated. I am wondering how much of a mess this would make?