I like that LGB rail truck. I went with the Kadee and did remote uncoupling with mine via a Zimo decoder.
The motor block in the truck is the LGB standard that is used in the powered tender/small diesels and can pull several cars with no problem.
Dan Pierce said:
I like that LGB rail truck. I went with the Kadee and did remote uncoupling with mine via a Zimo decoder.
The motor block in the truck is the LGB standard that is used in the powered tender/small diesels and can pull several cars with no problem.
Thanks, Dan, for the feedback. Where did you position the sound board and speaker with your install?
There was no space inside the truck to position the Soundtraxx Tsunami2 decoder so I ran the wires up through the storage compartment in the truck bed and positioned it there. I then glued a good quality Massoth #8241040 40Lx40Wx17Hmm 8Ohm 2 Watts speaker face down onto the truck bed. There’s a nice ridge around the speaker cone that provides a good seal to the speaker face, and the sound quality is excellent. Finally, I added the log load into the truck bed to conceal both the sound board and the speaker. The horn on this little rail truck really wails!
Tom,
Vey nice layout, it definitely has room for expansion. I can see a double track at all the bridges and other area.
One point, at 0.40 at the end of the bridge are two long blue screws (concrete screws), take them out and replace them with the right length screws and than paint them black to match your ties so they are not so prominate. Just a suggestions because I can see you are far from being finished with your layout (who is, I do not know) but just a suggestion.
Keep up the good work. I wish I had raised my layout above my knee height.
Any way have fun that is what is all about.
I really love the gravel-between-retaining-walls. Lots of functional benefits and looks just great.
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Collen - Yes, I know I need shorted concrete screws…just haven’t gone to the hardware store yet. But I was anxious to try out the new rail line…the finer details can wait!
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Cliff - Yes, I found that gravel at a local stone and gravel suppy company only about 5 miles away which is pretty much to scale for G…they call it Crushed Stone #9. My contractor hauled 2 1/2 tons for the retaining wall section of the RR. Then they had delivered by the supplier another 3 tons to spread it onto the rest of the RR. The bulk gravel is packaged in a large 1 1/2 ton synthetic type bag (i.e., 3000 pounds each). After my contractor completed the project, there was half a bag remaining in front of my garage and I’ve used most of that to level out the track at the front level grade coming out of the stand alone elevated section. I still need to do some leveling of the track on top of the retaining wall and then I’ll finish it off with the gravel spread on top of the track and a brush…make it look like actual prototyical embedded track.
Yikes! I was watering my grass seedlings next to my new garden railway base that my contractor planted, and I heard a large cracking sound and then a thud! A large rotted tree limb had fallen luckily right in front of my deck’s starway…didn’t hit my new or old layouts. After than shock, I’m going to get a tree company to inspect the tree branches of the two large Oaks in my backyard and the large Poplar in my front yard. If a limb this size fell on me while I’m laying more track, it would give me a serious headache! I’m planning on having an open house for my new railroad in the Fall and I don’t want any safety issues from my trees with visitors.
I have an agreement with my plants… nothing grows over the ROW, period. Otherwise me and Mr. PoleSaw have an appointment 
Seriously, glad you avoided damage…
Greg
Thought I’d update everyone with the status of the track installation on my new garden railway. It’s been so hot back here in Washington DC area that it’s not conducive to working outdoors. But the last few days I installed Massoth Single Channel Track Switch Decoders into five LGB 16000 series 22.5 degree track switches. These Massoth units screw into a track tie next to the switch and are powered by the track…two wires are soldered to Massoth Brass Rail Connection Clamps and the other two wires go to the LGB track switch motors. You first program each decoder with a address. I also discovered that these Massoth units have a built-in timer you can activate by CV which will automatically throw the switch back to its original position after a set time…pretty neat. I’ll use that feature on the three way switch I’m going to use for my three bay loco shed in the future railyard.
The photo below shows the installed switches and the beginnings of the second loop of track. At the top of the photo there’s a switch which will vere off to the railyard. This weekend the heat will drop down to the upper 70s so I hope to get more track installed then.
I’d change that track up to emulate a typical “ladder” configuration and eliminate the S curves you have.
Leave the closest switch as is.
The next switch should be a right hand
The next switch should be a left hand.
look at the “yard body” part of the diagram below…
The middle track that you have going to the top section of your yard should be straight … "no curve "… add a larger curve section between the straights you have … it should be leading to the straight section of a switch
You guys make good points about the track design. I originally installed the one mainline loop and then added the siding…see photo. So I trying to reduce the amount of labor on the switch removal and re-adjustments, but that’s not the best approach…but this hot weather is a killer! So, I’m going to do a re-design using some of you guys’ suggestions.
Thanks
IRON SPIKE CEREMONY SEPTEMBER 15, 2019
Held an Iron Spike Ceremony at the last track section installed today completing the 300 foot double-loop mainlines. This included assemblying four more LGB truss bridges for the two eight foot spans for the inner loop. Now I need to work on the railyard design and installation and also assemblying about 10 Piko buildings for it.
See the Iron Spike photos I took this morning after I put the last two Split Jaw railclamps together, then laid more gravel over the new loop to make it look like a real railroad rails. I didn’t have a “gold” that are expensive so I used a real railroad spike I found on a section of track in Charlottesville, Virginia. I’ve also posted these photos on my Website.
Congratulations on your success. Take time to enjoy it, before the next expansion.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Thomas,
Congrats! It looks great. I love your iron spike setup. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
HUZZAH!! Let me echo the congratulations!
Congrats on that milestone… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
RAILYARD DESIGN STATUS
Today the weather has been great for track work dropping from the 90s the last few days to low 80s. So, decided to play around with my remaining pieces of track and switches to get ideas for the track design of the railyard. I’m ordering another box of 12 sections of AML 6 Foot Brass Flex Track from RLD Hobbies. I’ll have to pay $40 for shipping this time…all the other boxes I’ve bought from RLD Hobbies at the last three annual East Coast Large Scale Show in York PA. I also need to order some additional left and right hand switches. The below photos show the second iteration of the track which I like better. On the left side of the railyard I’ll install a three bay locomotive shed using a three-way LGB switch you can see in the photo. While I was laying out the track, I had a brainstorm…there’s also space in the far left area to install a track "Wye"so a locomotive can change direction.
Photo inserting
- Start by uploading your photos to a server. You have storage space in the Freight Shed on this web site.
- After they are uploaded, click on the file you want to open.
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- Next click on the insert photo button in your post and paste the image location in the source line.
- Look at the dimensions. You will see them if you click on the first box (height). Make it 800 then click on the second box and it will automatically be correctly scaled.
- Then hit OK and your photo will be in your post.