think im going with kadees . those are the most recommended
thanks everyone for the great advise and info …really learned a lot here already lol
Victor:
Don’t forget that there are two different sized large scale couplers from Kadee; G Scale and 1 Scale.
Victor, I won’t get into the great coupler debate, but will expound on Mark’s post above. The No 1 Sclae coupler is a great fit for the 1:32 and 1:29 scale rolling stock. It will also work well on the 1:24, but starting to get closer to a 3/4 size coupler in scale. The ‘G’ Scale coupler is more attuned to the 1:22.5 and 1:20.3 scales size wise. Scale is important, but I prefer to err on the side of durability. The No 1 scale coupler will not stand up as well under less than ideal conditions as the ‘G’ scale coupler will. Also, depending on where you are going to run your trains (home layout vs club), the larger ‘G’ scale coupler has a taller vertical face which will allow for a greater tolerance to less than table top track work.
Just some things to think about.
I chose the 1 Scale for my indoor railroad. My engines are mostly the Bachmann geared Spectrum 1:20.3 locos. I chose them because I think they look more appropriatly sized for my railroad’s narrow gauge short line look. I’ve not experienced any uncoupling issues and feel that I do have “ideal” conditions.
However, I would support all of Bob’s points.
The one thing not mentioned yet is body mounting or truck mounting the couplers. truck mounted is the simplest way you can add KaDee couplers to everything, basically just unscrew the factory coupler then install the KaDee. Body mounts, while more realistic looking involve a lot of cutting, drilling and shimming on the car locomotive. So if you are just roundy round, the truck mounts will be just fine. I agree with Bob and others, the larger “G” coupler works better. If you get into operations, then a switch to body mounts will be needed, because the coupler has springs and swivels on the truck mounts and will cause derailments if several cars are pushed through switches or curves. Welcome to the best hobby !
Pete, Thank you for very much for mentioning truck mount vs. body mount Kadees.
I did post about this about 9 posts back with link to a presentation I had done that includes issues with them.
-Ted
Welcome Victor!
One more thing to mention. If you run a train longer than 18-20 cars, with body mounted kadee 906 on 10ft diameter curves, you will have to notch the coupler box. The wheels will drag and cause the train to streamline otherwise. Kadee does have a coupler that has a swinging gear box, I can’t think of the model number though. I just prefer the 906 for the slack action.
Also, in my experience, stock couplers will not stay together with a longer train. At least they didn’t for me. Aristo couplers would pull apart leaving half the train sitting.
Kadee couplers are by far the best. Also, if you have a USA Trains engine, look into the campac box. It works amazing and looks even better.
My apologies Ted , I should have read your link presentation . Today running a train I had an issue that was a KaDee issue, On a short downhill followed by a curve , as the loco goes into the curve the USAT aluminum tank cars induce slack into the train to the point that the couplers separate and almost caused a derailment.
Speaking of couplers, I need to know what USA coupler I can use to mount on the screw under an E-8 that is long enough to couple up to the USA passenger cars. Would a wide vision caboose coupler work?
Matt Russell said:
…
One more thing to mention. If you run a train longer than 18-20 cars, with body mounted kadee 906 on 10ft diameter curves, you will have to notch the coupler box. The wheels will drag and cause the train to streamline otherwise. Kadee does have a coupler that has a swinging gear box, I can’t think of the model number though. I just prefer the 906 for the slack action.
Also, in my experience, stock couplers will not stay together with a longer train. At least they didn’t for me. Aristo couplers would pull apart leaving half the train sitting.
Kadee couplers are by far the best. Also, if you have a USA Trains engine, look into the campac box. It works amazing and looks even better.
Matt,
Having looked at your nice train video with USA Trains 4 Bay Cylindrical Hoppers & AML PS 4750 Covered Hoppers that have trucks close to the end of the car, the Kadee 830/906 type coupler boxes do need to be notched for operation on tighter curves as you said.
Example notching shown below for the AML 4750 Hopper:
Note the box ears are also trimmed so mounting includes the screw at its center.
-Ted
Ron Hill said:
Speaking of couplers, I need to know what USA coupler I can use to mount on the screw under an E-8 that is long enough to couple up to the USA passenger cars. Would a wide vision caboose coupler work?
Ron,
Unless I am reading this incorrectly. My understanding is all USA couplers are the same length however I’m no expert.
Regardless of length, the E8 is an AristoCraft loco in 1:29, the USAT coaches are 1:32 if I am not mistaken.
USA Trains passenger car coaches are 1/29 scale:
USA Trains
"ULTIMATE SERIES "AS REAL AS IT GETS
Corrugated Aluminum Passenger Cars
“SPECIAL FEATURES … 1:29 scale length …”
-Ted
ULTIMATE SERIES “AS REAL AS IT GETS”
SD70 MAC Diesel Locomotive
SPECIAL FEATURES
1:29 Scale model
Dual powered 6 wheel motor trucks
Fan driven diesel exhaust
Alternating ditch lights at slow speeds
ULTIMATE SERIES “AS REAL AS IT GETS”
50 Ft. Steel Box Cars
SPECIAL FEATURES
1:29 Scale Model
Three Style of Operating Doors
(A) Single Steel Door
(B) Double Steel Door
As posted by Ted:
"ULTIMATE SERIES "AS REAL AS IT GETS
Corrugated Aluminum Passenger Cars
“SPECIAL FEATURES … 1:29 scale length …”
-Ted
Not to argue or get into a pissing match But note the high lighted words on the three Ultimate Series pieces. This seems to imply that the only thing 1/29th scale is the length on the Corrugated Aluminum Passenger Cars. I found no place on the page that inferred the whole model is 1/29th scale only it’s length.
To double check I also checked :
ULTIMATE SERIES “AS REAL AS IT GETS”
Heavyweight Passenger Cars
SPECIAL FEATURES
1:29 scale - length 33.5" approx. - height 5.75" approx. Minimum Track Diameter 8’
LED interior lighting that stays lit after the train stops
There must be a reason Charlie used the specific wording IMHO YMMV
Bob Cope said:
Regardless of length, the E8 is an AristoCraft loco in 1:29, the USAT coaches are 1:32 if I am not mistaken.
“I personally” think you are quite mistaken however I am no expert.
Just my tuppence
Ro 2010 is pretty much standard. Here I thought Google was pretty much standard from the experts these days. What ever happened to the real cowboys ?
Rooster said:
…What ever happened to the real cowboys ?
they went to south america
Korm Kormsen said:
Rooster said:
…What ever happened to the real cowboys ?
they went to south america
Which part ?
USA Trains website says that the extruded aluminum passengers cars are 1:29 scale as is the E-8 locomotives. You cannot rework the coupler on the passenger cars as best as I can tell because of the spring mechanism on the couplers. The easiest thing to do is to change out the locomotive coupler to a USA one. I will order an extended vision caboose coupler. I have changed out the couplers on all my freight cars and the caboose coupler is 1" longer that the freight cars. About 4 1/2". I have a while before I can run them so I will start working on the project. Thanks.
Rooster said:
Korm Kormsen said:
Rooster said:
…What ever happened to the real cowboys ?
they went to south america
Which part ?
to answer that, i’ll have to look out of the window…