Care to mention the seller, so others don’t get taken by his lying a$$. If you don’t I understand , just wondering.
Matt Russell said:
I FINALLY, got time to work on it again. Just to remind those reading this, the seller sold this engine to me as only having 10 hours of run time on it…max. Those were his words. ugh. Thank you all to have helped me figure out what all was wrong.
So, what fixed the problem of both engines just stopping, was to bypass the poly fuse. I did that, and ran both engines mu’d together until the battery died. So, I think it is FINALLy fixed. whew.
That’s great Matt; you fixed it. Did you bypass the poly fuses only in the GT unit?
What happens if you put the GT unit as the lead loco, and put the Chessie unit second, connected to the battery car?
-Ted
Ted,
I asked Matt to give me a number off one of the poly fuses. It ends in 300 which tells me it is a 3amp fuse. What I don’t know from what he sent is if that is the operating value or the trip value. In any case it seems low.
Pete, I didn’t get it off this site. I got it off the facebook group called, buy and sell large scale trains. He has since left that group and has been banned from the gscale swap and shop. His name was Kyle Lael.
Thanks Ted!!! I did. I bypassed the poly fuse’s and it runs fine. I never had to do that to the Chessie Gp40. Its never cared where it was mu’d. I could run it anywhere. I plan on putting batteries inside each of those engines. I didn’t want to put one in the GT right now, because I’ll have to ship it off to a painter and I didn’t like the idea of having a battery in the engine while shipping it.
Paul, that’s all that is on the fuse. There is a number 30 above the numbers I gave you and made in China on the other side. I’ll look again later to make sure though.