Really like the diagonal sheathing and the little interior details so far. However you better get and outhouse dug real soon as the guy sitting on the table seems like he needs to go real bad!
Rooster, there are bushes out back if he really has to
Er Rooster, that guy is pretty quiet so i never noticed…Don’t know why he doesn’t just go out into the woods…maybe he cannot reach the shop door knob!
I made the roof trusses first then nailed them onto the upper header. the upper header and lower are not nailed…I hope I can take the roof off if need be to get inside for detailing…
the saw I use was purchased used from a certain Massachusetts fellow who gets lots of cool stuff then soon sells it at a nice discount…Thank you! I do save quite a bit on lumber having my own saws! This wood came from scrap leftover after the state built a new bath house at Popham beach. almost lost it to storm erosion soon after it was built…Hundreds of yards of beach disappeared including old pine trees growing on the dunes, but the waves stopped just feet from the new building!
your last pic made me shudder!
fingertips a mere inch away from the sawblade…
Featherboards are cheap insurance. But I would be lying if I said I didn’t do that all the time. Not a good idea.
My fingers get that close to the blade on my Proxxon, but I know where the blase is and where my fingers are and I work slowly. As soon as my concentration lapses, even for a split second, I go do something else. When running narrower pieces of wood into the blade, I use push sticks.
All of my fingers are still in tact, with no saw blade scars.
The way I work is that those fingers are just guiding the wood and do not approach any closer the other hand moves the wood then I switch and pull the wood away … lots of respect for the blade … I am still fully digital, Knock wood!
Any how… I was making the roof sheathing.
You can see the ink and alcohol stain on the boards… another coat on the outside will follow when I finish sheating.
I trimmed off the extra length of the roof boards with my little Japanese hand saw…one of my favorite tools…
I added some trim on the corners and the eaves. The guys are as happy as they ever get!
I had some window sashes that I had made while making the windows for my store. Today I made the window frame
I used cedar shingles…didnt have to cut any yet as I had a pretty good stash on hand.
I poured some of the alcohol and ink stain into the plastic cup with the shingles and gave the mess a good stir and shake. I immediately started applying the singles using titebond III glue
Oh, and before adding the singles, I painted the trim with green paint… I did a poor job of it so it would look like pealing paint, then weathered it with ink stain.
I want to get all the siding done and most of the interior details done before applying the roofing so it doesnt get bent up too much…maybe a little though.
I did try out my JAX Aluminum Blackener. I am not sure it really “blackens” but it does do a decent job making old tin roofing out of the new aluminum stuff…
Wow like the looks of the aluminum blackener
That roofing looks great. Thanks for sharing that little tip.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
Nice! Really looking well made Eric. Seems that Jax does the job. I have to admit I’ve never been in a shop so rich that they can afford gold tools.
Wow Eric I like that finish a lot(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif).
Hey Eric, one day when you have nothing else to do(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif) can you give us a general procedure of how you achieved the look on the tin. I know you gave us the product, but how you went about it would be great. Nothing like just coming right out and asking for trade secrets!! Thanks.
Wow instant “OLD” Between the shingles the roofing and the “wiscassett green” trim boards that have lost their paint at the bottoms to weather, rot or possible termites your building looks great.
You’re the leader in the clubhouse for the “Weathering Award” Eric. I was wondering if you would be able to live up to your great build of last year, but, really, I think you’re on your way to surpassing it!
Now all you have to do is include a hitching post and tie a moose up…Ha.
I like what the blackener did. Doesn’t look black, but looks great for this use. The MSDS for the Jax Blackner can be found here:
I was trying to figure out what was in it and/or if it was similar to the Activator for Modern Masters reactive paints, which I just happen to have. This stuff has way more good stuff (hazardous chemicals) than what I have (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
I like the look of that!
The Jax Blackener was easy to use…just pour out some juice into the top of a plastic egg carton, drop the sheets in…take them out when they start to look “right” I did 6 or 8 at a time. I found that the juice looses its powers after several batches. I used most of my jar (8-10 oz so far) and still have some bright sheets. Ill have to study the MSDS to figure out what to do with the used stuff or if it still has some powers for the good left in it.
I read the MSDS. You can dispose of it in a municipal sewer. Not sure about us rural folk with septic tanks, but probably OK there too as it gets diluted to death.
It’s not going in my septic…
Looks like a chemical plate of Nickel sulfides.
Interesting soup, thanks for embellishing our menu.
John