Thanks to all for your nice & encouraging comments!
Three other locomotive / motor-car projects have been finished recently
NYC RP-210
MILW #5900
DRG&W M-1 ‘The Prospector’
Regards
Norman
Man Norman, you are one hard working guy and do a good job at the same time! Love seeing your builds. Some in-progress ones would be nice to see, or do an article for GR.
Ohh, that Milwaukee beast is pretty.
Before your NYC Explorer project was initially posted here it had never in all these years stuck in my memory that it was blue and yellow.
Thanks for the nice comments, Jerry & Forrest.
Jerry,
you may have a look to my home-page / blogspot - there are quite a lot of in progress photos (incl. some faults during the building process)
My new project is Rock Island’s #798-799 - Davenport center-cab switchers of 1000hp built in 1950
I’ll do the early look in all-black painting and with radiator openings in the hoods’ sides.
Regards
Norman
Your amazingness quotient is off the charts!
Lou Luczu said:
Your amazingness quotient is off the charts!
He’s madder than a senile mountain goat with ADHD Lou !
Makes me wonder why one would waste time on debauchery .
This post has been edited by ROOSTER: because he is wasting time!
Norm, I have a question or two: How are these two units coupled? How do they go around curves? Would whatever you are doing work on heavyweight passenger cars? I think if I could get my heavyweights coupled close enough I might get excited again about owning them.
I still like the 9006, but well done for the other models
How are these two units coupled? I’ve put a Kadee #831 in place of the original knuckle couplers
How do they go around curves? To be honest: I don’t know, haven’t tested it - however, with all the streamliners a curve-diameter of 20ft would be necessary
Would whatever you are doing work on heavyweight passenger cars? I’ve modififed a few HW in different design - I mounted Kadees on the trucks with only a small overhang. It should work on 20ft diameter curves, too (haven’t tested this neither). I could provide some photos of my HW (e.g. a RI commuter with arch-roof) if you are interested.
Hope this helps a bit
Regards
Norman
A slightly streamlined doodlebug rebuilt by RI’s shops - motor car #9049 ‘Rocket Jr’
My model is built using an Aristo Doodlebug / Gas-electric
Necessary changes:
- Lengthened Aristo Doodlebug shell
- modified number of coach area windows
- modified cab’s front and side windows
- GRP skirting
- Modified Aristo-HW roof
- Modified Aristo doodlebug front radiator intake
- USA-Trains NW2 powered front truck
- USA-Trains NW2-rear truck with shortened wheelbase
And with most of the detailling and lettering done
Regards
Norman
Wow, that is cool! I like McKeen cars, made a couple of them.
What gorgeous work exhibited by great talent has been shared in this thread!
As to the question a few post back about closer car coupling:
Aristo-Craft heavyweight cars can be much closer coupled than factory and still operate on 8 foot diameter track - example shown with body mounted Kadee 907 centerset couplers:
When accommodating car operation on 8 foot diameter track, coupling distances are shown below.
(For layouts having larger diameter curves, couplers could be mounted on the cars for yet closer distances.)
The one caveat is cars with truck mount couplers are incompatible when coupled with cars having body mount couplers when operating in and out of or on curves, except maybe for the most sweeping, like 20 foot diameter.
For more detail, see vignette (article), title: “Aristo Heavyweight Passenger Car & Body Mount Kadee 907s”
Likewise for Aristo Streamliner cars. See vignette, title: “Aristo Streamliners - Lowering & Body Mounting Kadee 907 Centerset Couplers”
Similarly, using body mount couplers for USA Trains Streamliner cars. See vignette, title: "USA Trains Streamliner & Kadee 906 Centerset Couplers"
-Ted
What a treat to see your latest project! Thanks as always for sharing!